Ok folks, we all know what the big 3 is, how you upgrade the following wires:

Negative Terminal To Chassis = DONE
Alt. Terminal To Battery Positive = DONE
Engine To Chassis = NOT DONE

Well, i completed the first two today, I used 0 Guage Wire For This (Do It Right The 1st Time)

Before I did this, I could not play my subs very loud without my Digital Dash flickering and dimming like no tomorrow, I also noticed my headlights dimmed a little on harder hits, and if the subs hit too hard, the radio/subs would even shut off at times from pulling too much power.

I am not running a huge system... 2 Alpine Type E's at 250 RMS each, 450 watt Alpine amp, Kenwood HU, Sony speakers....

After the upgraded wiring...

I can now play my subs as LOUD as they will go, and NOTHING FLICKERS, NO DIMMING AT ALL!!!

I went from having to keep my subs at a low level with risk of them shutting off, to now being able to give me a full body massage with the bass the system now allows me to play

I knew that upgrading these wires were gonna help out a little bit...but not this much...

Call me a liar.. But this upgrade has turned out to be a miracle cure for me, no more dimming and no more dash flickering is absolutely wonderful.

The materials to complete this project didnt cost much, right under 50$ for:

8 Ft of 0 Guage wire
Five 0 Guage Connectors
1 Neg. Battery Post Power Block (Neg. to chassis)

I will have pictures up by tomorrow night.
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Im actually very interested in doing this to my firebird, and would love to see pictures of everything, and know where you got your side mount terminal for the negative battery cable.

The HARDEST part of the WHOLE thing was simply attempting to crimp the wires to the connectors....0 G Wire sucks to mess with because there is so much there...

Still gotta do the Engine Block To Chassis Ground...but that will come later.

This is quite possibly the MOST noticible upgrade I have EVER done to my car....besides my engine

Doesnt the battery negative have to ground to the engine? Usually the alt bracket? You cant just create a new ground like that, you car will run but may not charge.... How long have you run your car/system like this?

Yeah, I reread that, and I noticed as well that you said you were grounding the battery to the frame. Im hoping thats a mis type?

No, you read that right, my battery's negative post is grounded to the chassis, just like ALL the tutorials say to do...

I have had my car running like this since friday, on saturday night I had the subs absolutely thumping all night long at idle basically (Sittin on the strip in town) and no problems with the engine starting up, or anything like that.

Im even able to listen to the music when the car is off but the radio is still on subs and all.....no problems..

And what's the difference between the frame and a bracket anyway?

Actually the tutorials do say, and also show, to ground to the frame. However I kept my old ground cable as well and simply added this one.

Yeah, batt (-) to frame is correct and VERY essential. Engine block (back of heads for my car) to chassis is very important as well. The alternator should ground itself by the casing, then going through the block, through the ground strap, to chassis, then to battery (well, technically that's backwards). So really, creating new grounds or improving stock ones just creates less resistance. I don't know what the hell Online170 is talking about.

Looks good- alot better than your plug wires.
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As long as you have a ground strap on the block: nothing

whats wrong with my plug wires?

1. They're laying right on the header.
2. They're zip-tied together with no gaps between them to prevent crossfiring.
3. They're yellow.

1. Even though it looks like they are laying directly on the header at the angle the picture was taken, they are in fact a good inch or more away from it, every one of them.

2. How much space is needed to prevent this"? I've never had a problem before...There's a gap there, just not a huge one.

3. Lol, Oh well, 8.8 mm works for me

They need very little space, but it does make a big difference, plus it looks more professional. Very sweet engine bay otherwise!

Yeah, i was gonna look into a set of those, just that the good ones are pretty expensive.

You should see the engine bay now....just recently I removed ALL of that rubber undercoating crap off the sides of the engine bay, ill post pics later this week.