Are my components aplicable with my choice of head unit? I am new to car audio (being as this is my first car) and I am unsure, I have all of the items hyperlinked so let me know what you think. Thanks for reading.


6 x 9” Rear: Polk Audio MOMO MMC690
5 ¼” Door: Polk Audio MOMO MMC5250
Kicker Panel: Q Logic Camaro Kicker Panel
4 Channel Amp: Power Acoustik OV4-1200
Subwoofer Amp: Power Acoustik OV2-2600
Subwoofers: Alpine SWR-1222D
Subwoofer Box: Audio Enhancers NCT250 Dual 12"
Receiver: JVC KD-AR8500
Dash Kit: Best Kits BKGM1516B

 

I would get a mono for the subs not a 2ch but thats just me =/
otherwise it should sounds good and loud.
are you keeping the stock front speakers? because that would just be retarded.. get some 4x6? i cant remember the size lol

 

Well the 4x6 are gonna be there but not hooked up, I'm gonna be using the kickers and mounting the tweeter on the window pillar. But as far as the subs go, the 2ohms give a clearer sound cause when it gets goin it sounds like a drone in the trunk.

 

tweeters have to be within 1 foot of the mid range as far as component speakers are set. other than that I see no real issue that the price of them and I am not a fan of power acoustic because of previous issues,

 

Not 100% true on the tweetwr application. Within 6" is ideal and placement is everything because you want to line up your sound wave to sound correct, it's kind of a complicated equation to work out, but if your pillar is choice then i suggest pointing the tweeter towards the front windsheild, this will allow the sound wave from your kicks to catch up with the tweeter, it'll make for better imaging. also try and get your subs in the rear slot facing upwards ported or not you will get amazing bass no matter what sub amp combo you use. transmarobirds are famous for this, great sounding cars!! just keep in mind you will notice leaks develop quite quickly especially with a t-roof model as the bass destroys seals, so keep them vasalined and you might get a bit more time out of them. happy tuning!

 

@crytical point: what issues do you have with power acoustiks specifically...

@dayton: I was thinking about mount the tweeters on the pillar but ill try having them face towards the windshield, i've never heard of doing it that way, thanks for the tip.

 

there speakers are either hit or a miss and they are touchy to power and box displacement. I have 4 tweeters hidden in the heater vent pointing toward the windshield and I hear them just fine. I build for SQL and usually power acoustic is not in that area but they have some subs that will blow your eardrums out just good luck powering them. I use to use them alot but alot of the speakers are low quallity and thier tweeters are the worse.

 

well, thanks for the insight. I guess i'm not going to go with power acoustiks. Now how about Kole audio? I'm currently looking and the kole audio Kx1-4000D. If this is no good do you have a reccomendation?

 

I have never dealt with Kole before but there are some alpine and this may sound like im contradicting myself but Pyle has some nice amps but once again some are crap. I like my pyle amps in my car they are crystal series 1200 and 1800 and I have considered replacing them with a Pyledriver 6ch which is a big amp but will power everything I have in there. I can understand running your front speakers in the doors and kick panels but you could make a tweeter pod in the stock 4x6 location or put a concert tweeter there. I put my tweeters in the defrost vent and put 5 1/4 speakers in the sptock location, in the rear I have 6.5 with a concert tweeter and I have crossovers on everything but the subs and contorl the sub through the head unit. You are going for the aftermarket look which has ALOT of room to work with and if you have the $$ it could be really nice but I was going for stock look with hi performance sound and the restricts the room I have and how extravagant or crazy I could go. But I will go through your list and see about what amps best match power with your speakers.

 

Yes, thats why I have chosen that amp. It has 1200 @ 4ohm so I can hook up the dual voice coil 4ohm subs to it for a 600w RMS. But I will look into pyle for it. If need be, I will go with a downgrade because I do not want to keep reapplying the seal around the hatch window.