Fitting a CD Changer
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 0
From: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
I ran mine under the center console, under the back seat, and around the trim to reach the CD-box. However the wire is visible between the center console and the back seat. For a professional install you would want to run the wires under the carpet, but then you would have to pull out the front seats and carpet to do so.
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92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Mechanics:
Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Flowmaster 3" Cat-back Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-90 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs and 4 Infiniti speakers.
NEXT UP: SLP 1 3/4" Headers/Y-pipe, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch kit
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92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Mechanics:
Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Flowmaster 3" Cat-back Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-90 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs and 4 Infiniti speakers.
NEXT UP: SLP 1 3/4" Headers/Y-pipe, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch kit
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Or just run it near the rocker panels right under the edge of the carpet. It's easy to remove the kick panel and the door sill and tuck it right under. The only tough part is getting it from the back of the door opening to the rear hatch area, but give yourself an hour and you'll be fine.
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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
Yeah, I'll secondm Jim's idea!
I did exact same installation, unvisible and works fine!
[EDIT] And I have my amplifier under the drivers seat, so all my wires are going that route sub, amp.. and its easy to adjust amp that way..
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'89 Formula 305 TPI T-5
Check out my car HERE!
[This message has been edited by '89Formula305TPI (edited December 29, 2000).]
I did exact same installation, unvisible and works fine!
[EDIT] And I have my amplifier under the drivers seat, so all my wires are going that route sub, amp.. and its easy to adjust amp that way..
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'89 Formula 305 TPI T-5
Check out my car HERE!
[This message has been edited by '89Formula305TPI (edited December 29, 2000).]
Thanks for the replies. I had the same idea as Jim85IROC, then read his post and went ahead and did it.
It took a total of 4 hours to run the cable.
As Jim said ... "The only tough part is getting it from the back of the door opening to the rear hatch area."
There is a screw holding on the plastic coverings which can only be removed if the back seat is removed first. Not being able to remove this screw made running the cable very difficult, but I managed it, with the help of my bro.
Cheers,
Geoff
It took a total of 4 hours to run the cable.
As Jim said ... "The only tough part is getting it from the back of the door opening to the rear hatch area."
There is a screw holding on the plastic coverings which can only be removed if the back seat is removed first. Not being able to remove this screw made running the cable very difficult, but I managed it, with the help of my bro.
Cheers,
Geoff
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