sound box question...
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
From: Clark, NJ, exit 135
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 CID
Transmission: Beefed up 700R4
ASSUMING YOURE TALKING ABOUT SUBS AND NOT THE 6x9's IN THE SAIL PANELS OR THE 4x9's IN THE DASH:
uh...not a good idea, there
. the only way that would sound "good" (and by good i mean not too crappy but not extremely horrible) is if you have free air subs (wich i doubt you have). what you need to do if you have regular subs (not free air) is either have them in a sealed box, ported box, or bandpass box to sound nice. another option would be to get a plate system where you get a plate made for the hatch of your car and put it over the hatch area with subs attached to it (what your idea was). the only problem with these systems are that they:
1. dont seal the front of the speaker off from the back of the speaker(so you get sound waves coming from the back interfering with waves from the front, which causes distortion)
2. they dont seal off the air under the speaker from the air above the speaker (causes loss in power and crappy sound quality)
3. are a real pain in the @$$!! because they seal off your whole hatch area (not good if you want to store things in your hatch with the system still in there) and if you have t tops, it makes it even more of a hassle.
i'd say that your best bet is to build yourself a sealed box because it will give you the best power handling and good sound quality. if you dont feel like building yourself a box, you can always buy one, and if money is a problem, plate systems are relatively cheap (40 bucks to 200 bucks) but remeber, youre sacrificing sound quality. its all a big trade off.
-dave-
uh...not a good idea, there
. the only way that would sound "good" (and by good i mean not too crappy but not extremely horrible) is if you have free air subs (wich i doubt you have). what you need to do if you have regular subs (not free air) is either have them in a sealed box, ported box, or bandpass box to sound nice. another option would be to get a plate system where you get a plate made for the hatch of your car and put it over the hatch area with subs attached to it (what your idea was). the only problem with these systems are that they:1. dont seal the front of the speaker off from the back of the speaker(so you get sound waves coming from the back interfering with waves from the front, which causes distortion)
2. they dont seal off the air under the speaker from the air above the speaker (causes loss in power and crappy sound quality)
3. are a real pain in the @$$!! because they seal off your whole hatch area (not good if you want to store things in your hatch with the system still in there) and if you have t tops, it makes it even more of a hassle.
i'd say that your best bet is to build yourself a sealed box because it will give you the best power handling and good sound quality. if you dont feel like building yourself a box, you can always buy one, and if money is a problem, plate systems are relatively cheap (40 bucks to 200 bucks) but remeber, youre sacrificing sound quality. its all a big trade off.
-dave-
Last edited by Supercharged84Z; Feb 6, 2002 at 08:39 PM.
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
From: Clark, NJ, exit 135
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 CID
Transmission: Beefed up 700R4
go ahead, build boxes to your heart's content
, just make sure you make the box big enough to fit the sub's air volume requirements. (cubic footage..lol) if the sub needs .4 - .7 cubic feet of air in the box, MAKE SURE you have .4 - .7 cubic feet of air for mister sub, if you dont, he wont like the box you build, and might run away, or even suffocate himself. in short, just make sure the box meets requirements for the sub, and you have it amplified correctly, and the subs will work out well for ya.
-dave-
:lala:
, just make sure you make the box big enough to fit the sub's air volume requirements. (cubic footage..lol) if the sub needs .4 - .7 cubic feet of air in the box, MAKE SURE you have .4 - .7 cubic feet of air for mister sub, if you dont, he wont like the box you build, and might run away, or even suffocate himself. in short, just make sure the box meets requirements for the sub, and you have it amplified correctly, and the subs will work out well for ya.-dave-
:lala:
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
Plates suck.
Plates suck.

135.5 dB with RF Punch 100 running an 8 ohm 12" MTX Thunder 3000, ON A PLATE!!!!!!!

And to put your word "suck" in a true statement; Vacuum cleaners SUCK!!!!!

AJ
Last edited by AJ_92RS; Feb 7, 2002 at 11:15 AM.
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I'm still not going to believe it until I see it metered in person. Until somebody re-writes the laws of physics, I'm not buying it. I'd believe it if the mic was placed in accordance to Outlaw rules, but not IASCA.
Aren't you the dude that fiberglassed every panel in the back of the car and made an "air tight" enclosure between the plate and the trunk? I'd believe that... because that's not a plate anymore, it's an enclosure.
Aren't you the dude that fiberglassed every panel in the back of the car and made an "air tight" enclosure between the plate and the trunk? I'd believe that... because that's not a plate anymore, it's an enclosure.
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
OK. So what's the diff?
IIRC, GrdPrx already said that IASCA puts the mic 4" off the a pillar, and 6" off the dash, or visa versa, I can't remember which is which. But that's where the mic was put in my car, as well as everyone elses car/truck/van that was in the compitition that day.
Where does Outlaw put the mic?? I didn't know it was different.
BTW, I am not the guy who used fiberglass or whatever you said. If you look at the pic you'll see the piece the holds the front of the board down. I also put a trapezoid looking piece on the back of the plate to help seal off the rear. And the sub faces up, not down like the pic shows. The top one you see was part of an isobaric configuration, but I didn't like how it sounded.
And anytime you are in the Chicago area, let me know before you go. I will pick you up at the airport, take you to the shop with the same SPL meter, and you can see/hear for yourself.
AJ
IIRC, GrdPrx already said that IASCA puts the mic 4" off the a pillar, and 6" off the dash, or visa versa, I can't remember which is which. But that's where the mic was put in my car, as well as everyone elses car/truck/van that was in the compitition that day.
Where does Outlaw put the mic?? I didn't know it was different.
BTW, I am not the guy who used fiberglass or whatever you said. If you look at the pic you'll see the piece the holds the front of the board down. I also put a trapezoid looking piece on the back of the plate to help seal off the rear. And the sub faces up, not down like the pic shows. The top one you see was part of an isobaric configuration, but I didn't like how it sounded.
And anytime you are in the Chicago area, let me know before you go. I will pick you up at the airport, take you to the shop with the same SPL meter, and you can see/hear for yourself.
AJ
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
84 TA NV
Firebirds for Sale
1
Sep 6, 2015 08:02 PM




