ok guys, im looking into amps right now, because im changing over my whole Flight plan.

i decided im going with Eclipse Aluminum 12' Subs. with a Dedicated Amp.

and then swap in fourth Gen Doors and throw a Quart 3way Comp Set, Put The 6.5 in the door with the tweeter, and then put the four incher into the dash on a custom plate.

with another Quart Set in the Rear Sail panels just 6.5's and Tweet.

I think ill run a Four Channel Amp for the Speakers.

but i have NO IDEA for the Sub Amp, and what brand for speaker amp, and how i should run the sub wiring,

thanx guys..

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I see a possible flaw in your plan. I'm pretty sure with the 3-peice MB Quart system the 4" is more important for imaging than the 6.5" (midbass). I'm guessing you'd get a better sound stage if you put the 4's in the doors w/the tweeter and put the 6.5's in the kicks.

You might want to get more ideas about that from DJSexay since he has a 4th gen & a competition stereo.

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oh, forgot to mention, (and thanx for pointing that out man!)
im not a front stage fanatic, like a nut, some guys say, no rear speakers, only front and subs.
remember that mexell commercial with the dood listening to the music and its flying pushing him back wards. i want that from all over, like being the center of it...

thanx for the input..
oh i just started peakin at amps, i saw an "Eclipse 34230 with 550W x 2 Channel Max. Power Output at 4Stereo 370W x 2 Channel 0.1% THD at 4Stereo, 20-20,000Hz@13.8V (RMS Continuous Power)

 

That's what I always thought until I heard a 2000 Silverado with a Diamond 3 way. Tweet and 6.5 in the door, 5 1/4" in the kick. The staging was phenominal.


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With a 3 way set, it's typical to have the larger woofer in the doors, and the mid and tweeter in the kickpanels.

I would definately put the 4" mid in kickpanels, as the midrange benefits the most from equal path lengths. The tweeters depend. Some tweeters need it, some don't but the angle is important (Quart is actually pretty forgiving on install, it doesn't need to be perfect to sound good).

I would do a 6 1/2" in the doors. Put the 4" in the kickpanels, and try the tweeters i both the kicks and the dash and the a-pillars, and hear which way is best.

4th gen doors in a 3rd gen , eh? Have you looked at the work involved ? Or just a plan now ? Even with 4th gen doors, I don't think a 6 1/2" mid is gonna fit. The pod that comes out on a 4th gen door only comes out by about 1 to 1 1/2". In a 3rd gen, you only got less then an inch until the power window motor interferes. So that gives you a total depth of 2" overall. Not enough for a Quart.

I'd rather just rebuild the 3rd gen doors. This is what I did to my 91 bird (damn I wish I had pics of that car!). It was not an attatched pod, but I rebuilt the entire door panel out of fiberglass, and had the speaker pod sticking out about 2 1/2".

As for your question about the amp, don't sweat it too much. Just stick to the good brands (Kicker, Rockford, JL). My friend just got a JL 500/1 for his sub. Pretty impressive amp, and small mounting foot print.

mike

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Nobody answered his sub wiring question. It depends on the amp you get. Usually everyone wants to run the amp bridged into one channel. Just read the specs on the amp and find out how many ohms the amp can handle while it's bridged.

If it's 4-ohms, then using one 4-ohm sub, or two 8-ohm subs wired in parallel, or two 2-ohm subs wired in series is OK. If it says 2-ohms (few amps say that) then two 4-ohms wired in parallel will work.

Just remember that the less resistance (ohms) that you use, the hotter the amp will run. If an amp says it'll run 2-ohms in bridged mode, I'd still stick with 4-ohms. I've got a 10yr old amp in my car now that is just fine after 10 yrs of running 4-ohms bridged. Maybe I'm just too nice to it.

BTW, anytime you run speakers parallel, use this formula to find resistance.
"x" = resistance of each speaker.
1/x + 1/x = 1/x Then just divide 1 by the answer you get to find the amount of resistance the amp will see.

I'll use three 4ohm subs for ex.
1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 = 3/4 Then divide 1 by 3/4 (or .75) and you get 1.33-ohms.

If you run them in series, then simply add the figures together. 4 + 4 + 4 = 8, etc.

AJ

P.S. That formula will also work with 8-ohm subs, or 6-ohm subs. etc. Or a mixture of Ohms being used together (although then your talking about different volume levels from each sub).

[This message has been edited by AJ_92RS (edited July 31, 2001).]