I am in the process of making a box for my two 10" Infinity Kappa DVC's. The speakers have dual 4 ohm voice coils. I don't know if I should wire them up to a 4 ohm total load, 2 ohm stereo or bridged mono. The amp is an Alpine MRV-503 which will deliver alot more power at 2 ohms. What is the preferable wiring with this setup?

Thanks for the help!

------------------
89' Firebird Formula
Black/grey cloth
305 TPI/5 speed/3.45 rear
dual cats/PW,PL/T-tops
K&N, SLP TB booster,
SLP exhaust, Jet chip

 

whatever you do aim for a mono load, IMO subs shouldn't be in stereo.

I don't hava suggestion for the actual wiring off the top of my head, but why not run two extra sets of terminals to outside the box and then you can decide later on or switch the wiring at any time

Just suggestions, lemme know if that's helpful at all.

------------------
http://www.tcnj.edu/~esposit3
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=1137
Member of FBS, The F-Bod Squad, 3 guys so far and I don't think we're growing

• '89 Trans AM, 305 TPI, 5-spd
• '86 Firebird, 2.8, Auto

AOL IM Name: JimmyTime5

 

If I may ask, why do you not like to wire the subs in stereo? With the closeness of the two subs in the box, and the nature of bass frequencies being omni directional, I know it probably won't make much difference in the sound. The amp is rated to put the same total output out whether it's 2-ohm stereo, or bridged mono.

------------------
89' Firebird Formula
Black/grey cloth
305 TPI/5 speed/3.45 rear
dual cats/PW,PL/T-tops
K&N, SLP TB booster,
SLP exhaust, Jet chip

 

I've gotten into this same argument before. The bottom line is:
between 4ohm mono or 2ohm stereo it's best to just try it both ways & see what sounds better.

------------------
'91 RS 3.1
SSM SFC's
Energy Susp. Hyper-flex kit
GTA Sway bars
Clarion, Phoenix Gold, JL Audio, etc.
Quote "If you can't beat them, arrange to have them beaten."
- George Carlin

 

Subs in stereo do not maximize your amps capability. Imagine 2 subs in stereo...when the bass hits on one channel, only one sub will respond. Now if it was in mono or you had both channel inputs feeding into it, then your subs would hit every time either channel hits.

------------------
92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi

 

True, but how often do you get a sub note on only one channel?

 

I would suggest going with a 4 ohms mono. 4 ohms mono and 2 ohms stereo generally give you the same output, but with the mono setup you don't have to worry about the gains being matched (if your amp has seperate right and left gain controls you want to make sure they are closely matched (I would pull out a O-scope or a voltmeter). If you go stereo, you might want to go with seperate enclosures for each sub as well, which isn't necessary with mono. So the mono setup is less work, with the same output.

Juan

If you meant to say

------------------
1987 Pontiac Trans Am
1994 Nissan Sentra E
1999 Daewoo Leganza