I've already got an amp in my car. I am probably buying my friend's subs, but I want to hook them up to my amp to see how they sound before I do. I know for speakers all you need to do is hook up the two speaker wires in order to get them to work. Is this true for subs as well? Or do am I going to need to run another wire to the battery for them? I am wondering because I want to be able to quickly hook them up to my car, so I don't waste my time doing anything else before I buy them. I have never worked with subs before, so this is probably a dumb question. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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1984 Camaro Sport Coupe - Rebuilt 355 S/D TPI L98, Crane 2032 CompuCam, Crane adjustable fuel pressure regulator, MSD Blaster coil, custom burned PROM, stock TPI intake, Accel 24# injectors, gutted air box with K&N filters
F41 Suspension Package, 700R4 Tranny, TCI Breakaway torque converter, 3.27 Posi Rear
Hooker Shorty Headers, Catco High-Flow 3" Cat, Flowmaster 3" American Thunder Cat-Back

Best 1/4 Mile Run:
13.847 @ 95.91 MPH

1992 1LE B4C Police Camaro RS - 305 TPI 5-Speed

 

Nah, they don't need power. All they need is the speaker wires.
Beware though, if you are going to just set them in your trunk and hook them up - they'll sound really bad.
Does he have a box that you can use when testing them? If not, don't base your choice on buying or not on sound quality, cause it'll sound bad no matter how good they are..


Ken

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1986 IROC-Z Conv't
- White Gauges, 17x9.5 TT II rims w/275/40x17" F1s, 1.5" Jamex Lowering Springs, BMR stb, Lakewood APR, PST suspension parts, Edelbrock Trailing Arms, KYBs, Edelbrock RPM Cat-Back, Edelbrock JHC Headers, Catco, World Products Heads, CompCam, SLP runners, Ported Plenum, K&N, Airfoil +polished/billet dress-up stuff
ChevyKen's Cars

Administrator @ ChevyWorld.net

 

Whoa. Wait don't go hooking those up to your speaker wires. If you do they will produce all the system's freq. range and the subs will try to produce that high stuff your tweeters give out. You need a crossover to block out anything from 50 to 150 Hz and up. Leaving you with bass. Your amp may have a built in x-over.

-Matt

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1984 Camaro Z28 - Black w/ Grey int.
-GM Goodwrench 350 with Edelbrock 600 Carb, Edelbrock Preformer RPM intake, AC Delco plugs, 8mm AC Delco wires, 14" Accel filter, Homemade Cold Air Indctn., Edelbrock Chrome valve covers, breather, and Air cleaner.
- Profesionally Built Turbo-350 with 2500 RPM Stall converter, Hurst shifter, & one wicked shift kit.
- Eagle Alloys 15" Alum. Rims surrounded by P235/60R15 BF Goodrich Radial T/A's
-Comming Soon:
3.73's, MAC Cat-Back, hollowed cat., B&M Megashifter, & Paint: Navy Blue Metallic w/ Silver strips
Pics at: http://members.fbody.com/flashz28/

 

Thanks for the replies. Yes, there is a box. So when I hook it up, I should put the low pass filter on for it? Thanks.

 

Yup, make sure the low pass filter is on. Also, turn down the gains and work your way up... you don't want to blow the speaker before you buy it. You might also want to bridge the amp while testing.. it depends on the amp and speaker though.