Can anyone help me, the choke won't turn off, it always stays on.

 

Need more info like carb type, choke type, what's been done to it recently, etc. Are you talking about the choke butterfly itself, or the choke light on the dash?

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/94.6 @ 5800' Bandimere.

 

It is the stock carb that came with the LG4 engine. The light is always on and it seems to idle around 1500 RPMs and 1750 RPMs. maybe that will help.

 

Due to a little bit of overly-elegant engineering on GM's part, that light is also the Alternator light. Makes perfect sense doesn't it... hmmmmm, let's see, I have a choke in one hand, and an alternator in the other.... why, these things are almost IDENTICAL!!! they even both have ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS!!! and besides, they're close together in the car, they're both even UNDER THE HOOD!!!! so that means I can use one light bulb to indicate a failure in both of them, and only label the light with the less important description, and EVERYBODY will still know exactly what it means!!!!!! Wow I am such a genius! Can I have a raise boss??? Yeah right.

Anyway, your choke will never work if the alternator doesn't. The 2 circuits are incredibly intertwined, with the purpose that the choke won't get electric power if the key is merely on but the engine is not running. There could also be a problem with the wiring (alternator wiring, not the choke wire) or with the relay in the "convenience center" under the dash.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Sounds like the problem I've had over the past few weeks. Well I did finally fix it . Not the way I'd like to have though. Turns out, of the wires to my choke relay. There was one tied in with my blue 12v choke supplywire that was both a(+) and (-). I don't have a clue why its like that or were it goes, so I snipped it . Choke works great and only works with engine running ,not just key On. Now To address your choke problem, with engine running , Check your choke wire with a test light or voltmeter while plugged to the choke. Should light or read about the same as your battery voltage. If it does then your choke linkage is either sticking or you need a new choke thermostat. If no current or bright test light then your choke relay is bad or you could have the same problem I had , which I don't really no how it could be fixed correctly.

 

RIchard's right. Back-probe the electrical connector on the choke housing. Should have a full 12V going to it with the engine running.

If not, find out why and fix it.

Once the choke is fixed, your idle will drop back down to normal, too

 

i have the same problem where is the choke relay under the dash also my car idles high at like 1500 and takes a long time to drop down to idle like 20 min? anyone can help me?