I have to rebuild the QJ on my '83 305 T/A. I found a store that has the rebuild kit for $25. Is this the normal price that one can expect to pay for a kit? Are there any extras that I will need? As always, thanks a lot!

 

That sounds pretty good. I've been quoted prices from $25 (on-line) to $40.

A new float isn't a bad idea. The originals can get soaked and heavy. Kinda messes up fuel level when that happens.

You should also consider an adjustment tool kit. www.partsamerica.com has it as p/n CST28N, $6.59.

Not sure why you need a rebuild, but that should cover it as long as the TPS and MCS are in good shape.

 

Well, i'm experiencing some hesitation when accelerating, and when I pull the throttle cable as far as it will go, the secondaries aren't opening. A friend of mine at work suggested a rebuild...does this sound like the right avenue to pursue? I experience the hesitation more frequently once the car warms up, if that helps....thanks!!

 

Let's make sure we're on the same page with regard to those secondaries. There are two parts involved, the throttle plates on the bottom, and the air valve (AV) on the top.

The plates are mechanically opened by the throttle arm, but there is a choke controlled lock-out on them. If the choke isn't warmed and off, the secondaries won't open.

The AVs are opened by air demand when the throttle is wide open (or at least the secondary throttle plates open), but are held closed initially by the choke pull-off (seperate from the choke thermostat), and controlled by tension on an adjustable spring. If you're watching the carb in the driveway and open the throttle up, there isn't enough load and therefore enough air flow to open the AV up. So, not a valid test to know if things are working correctly.

I go through all this because you may not have a problem, or at least not what you think you have.

As for the hesitation, when does this happen: When you give it some gas off-idle, give it more gas when cruising, or when you floor it? I would guess it's one of the first two, which could be an accelerator pump problem (in which case, a rebuild may be in order), or the thermovac system isn't working on your air cleaner (but that would be more evident when the car is cold), or it could simply mean you need more ignition timing (which will do wonders for how the carb works without even touching the carb).

 

Five7, I can't begin to thank you enough for being so helpful, and being so patient with someone who's new to carbs...

When driving the car, you could *****-foot it and never know there was a problem. But, once you floor it & the engine reaches around 4000-4500 RPM's, it starts hesitating. It's not violent, it just feels like the engine is having a hard time maintaining the acceleration. As I may have stated before, it becomes more prevalent once warmed up, and I don't have any problems at startup or when idling. Once in motion, the idle seems a little low, but it doesn't stall.

I plan on using some spray cleaner this weekend to see if it makes a difference, but since I have someone who could help me rebuild it, do you think it's worth it? Thanks again for your countless input...

 

Go ahead and try the spray cleaner, and put in a new fuel filter while you're at it.

How fresh is the tune up? Old plugs, wires, cap, rotor will give such problems as well. HEI coils are famous for causing problems when warm that don't exist when cool.

It's not patience. I'm just having fun.

 

There are ways to get around the 4 barrel lock out. I would just wait alittle before you try it. I did it to mine, hack saw works best. As far as the problem, how does your air cleaner look? does it do it with it off? When it raps out to 4500 will it go any farther, at all? Or does it die out? It may also be a fuel problem. Not enough pressure. You may be sucking your bowls dry. Hope it helps. My other car is a 74 Nova 350.

 

Sorry ran out of time last post, but as far as that price goes, it isn't bad if it comes with the float. I would go with a metal on. There are the best.

 

The engine is running a K&N filter in it, so I don't think airflow is the problem....I cleaned out the carb last week, but the battery started acting up & I haven't had time to drive it....I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again!

 

Got the battery problem fixed (FINALLY) so I was able to take it out yesterday for the first time since I cleaned out the carb.

It was still problematic upon acceleration, but otherwise she ran great...the only other description I could give of the symptom is that the car seems to shudder more than a hesitate (i.e. the symptom of a bad MAF sensor). It still accellerates, but it shudders @ 4-4.5K RPM (like it can't quite keep up). Like I said, under *****-foot driving conditions (*yawn*), you'd never know there was a problem.

I checked the plugs (Bosch Platinum) and they seemed fine. The wires looked good too. I plan on hopefully replacing the fuel filter early next week. If the problem still persists, should I plan on a rebuild? Thanks again for your help.

 

Your symptoms remind me of those experienced by people who have one of two different and unrelated problems. I've seen distributorless ignition vehicles act in a similar way when the coil pack starts going out. I know you have computer controlled hei distributor, but maybe you should look into your ignition system further. Also check the vacuum lines, particularly the one that goes to your vacuum advance canister on the distributor. The other problem I've seen that makes cars act like this is a bad (clogged) catalytic converter. Has it been getting hotter than usual? What 88Bravo said about sucking the bowls dry sounds like a good possibility as well. I say if you have the time and someone to help you (who really does know what they are doing) go for it. Buy the rebuild kit and Knock that out one weekend. You may also want to check out some computer controlled q-jet articles at this website that focus on beefing it up. You probably might as well give it a good tune up soon too. Then if you keep good records You'll know whats been done and when to help in future trouble shooting.