Now that the TBI is gone, I want to remove all of the useless crap that I don't need. The canister thingy has a gas line going to it. What should I do with this line if I remove the canister? Should I just plug it? I'm also going to remove the cruise control thing (the thing just next to the radiator) but it has what looks like a vacuum hose going to it. What should I do with it? Can I remove all of this crap without having any problems? Thanx in advance.

------------------
92 RS carb'd 350 5-speed

 

Just plug and rip anything you dont need or doesent have "active" connections.
Do be carefull tho you might need to reinstall certian things in the future.
SSC

 

When i got rid of mine i extended the line that went to the canister and had it exit out of the engine bay....Im pretty sure you dont want to plug this line as it is a vent for the gas tank i believe.

Dont quote me on this, but i think i read it in the tbi to carb swap

 

The canister does indeed vent the tank. Unless you want a pressurized tank from warming up, or a vacuum on the tank from fuel usage or cooling down, keep it vented.

If you don't mind fuel vapors around the car on a hot day, then just vent it out of the engine compartment. If you think containing those vapors is a good idea, keep the canister functional.

The cruise can be removed wholesale with no issues. Either replace the tee fitting from which it gets its vacuum with a fitting with one less nipple, or cap the fitting where you've removed the line.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited October 05, 2001).]

 

My car as is... the cansiter just sits there not doing anything... it is real annoying that it smells like gas whenever I go to start it up... I am in the process of fixing this through a carb swap. I would suggest doing all that is possible to make the canister functional. Unless you like the smell of gasoline, you can trust me when I tell you IT GETS REAL OLD REAL FAST!

------------------
1984 Firebird - Daily driver, 305 LG4, T5 - Hurst short shifter, Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb + Intake - Edelbrock Pro-Flow air filter, gutted cat, IROC 16x8 Wheels, AIWA bargain basement (from Sears of course) CD player, Eight-ball shift ****
Check out my ride here - My $1300 Toy

"IT'S SNOWING! TO THE HIGH SCHOOL PARKING LOT!" - The Mustang and Firebird face off in the dead of winter.

 

Well, my slack-a** still hasn't gotten around to taking it out. I don't really mind having the gas smaell but now that you mention it, I might keep the canister. I might end up ripping it out also though. I dunno. Anymore advise. Thanx for all the input guys.

------------------
92 RS carb'd 350 5-speed T-tops
650cfm double pumper, 3.73's, and a massive cam

 

As for the cruise control, be carefull
it has the speedometer cable going to it
and one coming out toward the inside..
If you end up removing it you will need
a new speedo cable ment for a non cruise car.

------------------
86 T/A L98 with T-5(orig an LG4)
Hooker headers
Performer RPM intake
holley 750cfm carb
cast iron 76cc heads with
2.02-1.60 valves
B&M ripper
Richmond 4.10's
Flowmaster
9.43@74mph 1/8 mile.