ok heres the deal, my carb is messed up, when I turn it on it idles at 1800-2000rpm for like 45 min. of driving then goes down to a some what normal idle if 1000-1100rpm. after poking around I found the choke is not doing its job so I wanted to adjust it, but its rivited in place, I took the choke part thats held on by three screws off another f-body, I'm told its the adjustable kind. can I drill out the rivets on the old one and screw this one in, will this work and fix the problem, thanks

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making

 

You can drill out the pop rivets and replace them with screws. That's the typical rebuild kit approach.

First make sure you're getting the proper 12 volts to the choke thermostat. If not, then replacing/adjusting the thermostat isn't going to help at all. Your symptoms do suggest you aren't getting that warming voltage, making the choke way too slow opening up.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

 

thanks chief
thats just what I wanted to hear, how can I chech the voltage, I have a digital meter but have no clue how to use it( I lost the booklet),thanks

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making

 

On the meter (I'll call it DVM for short), turn it on and select "voltage direct current", which may be abreviated "VDC". There may a range as well, so select something around 15 volts but no less than 12. Check your car battery voltage by putting the red DVM probe on the positive terminal, and the black on the negative terminal.

Then, take the wire off of the choke thermostat, put the red probe on the wire, and the black probe on a good ground, either somewhere on the engine or on the ground cable of the battery. Turn the ignition on, you should get a reading of around 12 volts or close to your battery voltage.

No or low voltage indicates your problem is in the power circuit. Good voltage indicates another problem.