So far, I have cut out all the obvious wires I no longer need: injectors, AIR system, IAC, TPS, MAP, CTS, MAT, the one you undo to set timing on a comp controled car, O2 sensor, distributor & external coil, EGR solenoid. It has made a HUGE difference. I still have a gutted smog pump for pulley purposes. Are there any other items/wires I can remove to clean up the engine bay more?

Oh yeah, I took out the thing that kept my IROC from being a beast - the ECM. And I got a sledge hammer and flattened it. It felt damn good!

 

Congrats on your swap.

I myself want to take out my TBI setup and replace it with a carb. Do you have any recommendations and drawbacks?
1.Did you keep the fuel pump?
2.All your interior stuff work?
3.Pass emmisions?
4.Do you have VATS?
5.How did you handle the ignition key and stuff?

Thanks.

 

Thanks. There have been no drawbacks whatsoever. The fact that there are more than twice as many topics and nearly three times as many replies on TBI as there are on Carbs tells you that it is just plain simpler to deal with a carbed setup. I spent a LOT of money and a LOT of time trying to get it to run right (even satisfactory) with the computer crap. I went through all the sensors trying to tweek everything and I had a chip burned for it too. I would estimate that I spent at least (if not more) than what I did on the entire TBI to carb swap, just trying to get somewhere with the computerized set up. It has been great with a carb. I followed the tech article on this board for the swap and all went smoothly.
1. I kept my fuel pump and got a Mallory 3 port return style fuel regulator.
2. All the interior stuff worked - even the damn SES light (all the time) so I took it out.
3. I don't have to worry about emissions in my state. So, freedom there.
4. No VATS.
5. No key problems.

I would recommend a carb with electric choke. I saved money on a carb with manual choke but then found it would be too big a pain in the a$$ to run a cable to it, so I had to buy a choke and put it on. It's easier to have one already on there. It will cost about $60 more.

I personally wouldn't have changed to carb if I had a stock 305. It may make a big difference, but I wouldn't know personally. But if you have gone from a 305 to a 350 or larger, I believe it makes it almost a necessity to get the damn computer out of the way so you will be able to enjoy your investment. Good luck with your ride.

[This message has been edited by rocky383 (edited December 02, 2001).]

 

1. You can, but don't bother. You'll just have to yank it later anyway to put in a better pump, so just do it right the first time. I learned that the hard way.

2.yup

3. I passed my sniffer test by a HUGE margin compared to when it was still stock and TBI. Go figure.

4. Yup..works fine

5. I didn;t. Worked fine.

 

Thanks for the tips.

jester,
that is awesome that you passed the sniffer.Did you keep the air pump and tubes from the stock manifolds and made it work?

I think I might just go and rip out the stock fuel pump and put a carb pick-up. and have a block mounted fuel pump.

 

Nope..no AIR tubes, no EGR, not even a cat, and I passed with a 60; limit was 220. My best when it was TBI and complete emissions wise was 218.

Manual pumps are pretty much the best way to go, assuming yout cam has a lobe for it. not all of the later model OEM rollers do, thats the only catch.

 

Thanks for the tips.

jester,
that is awesome that you passed the sniffer.Did you keep the air pump and tubes from the stock manifolds and made it work?

I think I might just go and rip out the stock fuel pump and put a carb pick-up. and have a block mounted fuel pump.

 

You can remove the smog pump completely if you change belts. Check out this tech article:

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml


[This message has been edited by Fbird88 (edited December 06, 2001).]

 

So the VATS works without the ECM/PROM?!? This is news to me. Damn. That was one of the (many) reasons I stayed with TBI, I was worried about VATS not functioning properly.


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91RS convertible 355 TBI 65# inj. custom compcam grind .480/.480, Edelbrock TBI manifold, open element, hedman hedders, Y-pipe, flowmaster single chamber, cop car chip, Accel coil, wires, vacuum controlled FPR. 2.02/1.6 cast iron heads. Engine specially made by Pflugerville machine shop. Forged bottom end, balanced. Coming soon: , Torque converter, DIY PROM, bigger TB.

 

The VATS will still work for the starter disable part, but I can't remember if the fuel cut if is for the fuel pump or the injectors. Either way I woundn't be sure that part still functions as designed...