So As I stated in my other post, I put the brand new edelbrock 1406 on my motor. Power is good, runs smooth, one problem:

When the car is fully warmed up, if I set the idle at about 800 rpm, everything is good, then when i try to re-start the car about 15 mins later, it dies. And I have to start it and then hold the gas for about 30 seconds and then it will idle ok, sometimes it dies. In the morning it takes like 2-4 mins to get it to Idle smoothly without dying. Sometimes after I set the idle at 800 like I said and then drive it around town, it seems to find it's way to a fast idle like 1200- 1400 rpm, what gives??? The choke seems to be operating ok, its electric, and the electrical connections are showing voltage at the carb.

I have an edelbrock smog legal intake, I took the hoses off of that round vacuum dispersing deal ( the one with like 5 vac lines going to it) and put vacuum caps over it. and I dis-connected the vacuum line to the EGR valve and capped it also, I tried to find a block off plate for the EGR but haven't had any luck yet. I checked for vacuum leaks, and found none, timing is set at 12 degrees base and the advance kit gives 22 for a total of 34,

One guy I know suggested that i am not getting a full 12 volts to the choke so it may not be operating properly. Is the EGR valve giving me problems?? What about the vacuum tower that I plugged ( the one that sticks up out of the intake and has two openings in it for 3/8 vac lines)??? I think that it is possible that my fuel pump is not flowing enough pressure at low rpm to feed the carb, it has 180,000 mi on it. I was also wondering if my idle mixture srcews could be the problem. My air/Fuel gauge says I am dead on. I also have a 1 inch spacer if that makes a diff.

It's really a pain in the *** to carry a screwdriver with you and constantly adjust the idle and then when you go around town and you stop at a light, you idle at 1200 rpm, it's driving me nuts!!!!




L-69 bored .030 over 204/214 .420/.442 cam, Edelbrock: intake, open element, aluminum water pump, valve covers Accel: coil, cap, rotor, wires MSD 6A, Hurst Shifter Edelbrock TES headers, gutted cat, 2.5inch back to a Flowmaster 2 chamber
T-5 and 3.73's

 

3rd paragraph:

I took the vac lines off of the vacuum tower that has lines that go to the vacuum dispersing canister thing ( the one with like 5 lines going to it) and capped them (2 3/8 inch caps)

 

Help, JESTER I know you have an idea of what is up, if you don't then I'm screwed!!! I'll try to talk Kragen into giving me another carb.

 

lol....get a holley. seriously.

I can tell you that an old fuel pump wouldn't cause that. You can't just cap off the EGR like that, you need to get a blockoff plate if you're not going to hook it up. Summit or Jegs has them for bout $7 IIRC.

It just sounds like your choke/fast idle mechanisim is being screwy. how/why I couldn't tell you..the first thing I do to all my carbs is take the @%^%@^&#%^@ choke off

 

None of the things you mentioned toward the end would make any difference.

First, what kind of distributor did you change to when you de-computerized the car? Do you have the vacuum advance hooked up properly, which would be to the port that has no vacuum at idle but starts having it as the throttles open?

Next, will the engine at least run correctly with every single vacuum connection on the carb plugged? If it does, then your problems aren't the carb. If it doesn't, then start looking for vacuum leaks around the base of the carb, etc.

IIRC there are 2 wires that go to the choke on those Carter carbs; one from 12V, one to ground. Where have you got the ground one hooked?

 

The ground is hooked to one of the bolts that goes to the choke.

I can't take the choke completely off, it gets cold enough here in redlands CA, that I'll need it.

I hooked the vacuum line for the disztributor to the one that HAS vacuum at all times, the manual said that for non- EGR motors, you do that. It gives me like 16 degrees of advance at Idle, am I sup[posed to be at the 12 degree base at idle???

JESTER: Do you think that by capping the egr valver off like that it would cause this??? It won't open cause the solenoid is not hooked up and also I put a cap over it...

I loosened the fast idle screw so that is doesn't even do any thing, so it's not that.

 

So you are saying that I should have my vacuum line for the vac advance going to the timed vacuum port????

I thought that that was for EGR set ups???

Which port left or right???

 

i just recently put the same carb on my car and i have no problems at all. what u need to do is adjust the mixture screws and not the idel screw. becuz what me and my brother did was he turned both screws all the way in and then a 1/4 turn on each out wards. and tried runnin the car and it died, so he turned it a 1/2 turn and the car ran but died and then another 1/2 turn and the car ran fine and so he gave it a 1/4 turn more and the car ran smooth.

then he adjusted the idle to about 700rpms maybe more but thats how i have mine set. and also since u converted to the non-computer controlled dist. u should have connected the vacume line to the vacume port on the driver side of the carb. thats like a constant vacume, and the middle should be for ur PCV valve if u have one. and the other i hooked to something else that was attached. i cant remeber what it was. i hope this helps u some.

 

Thanks, but you missed the part where I said that It idles high after i drive it around town and also that I am tuning the carb by means of a air/fuel ratio gauge.

 

do u have a tight return spring on there? maybe the return spring isnt that strong that u have.

 

Today I went and got a brand new carb from Kragen and put it on in the parking lot. It did better, but still not 100%. It says in the manual that hard starting can be caused by the fuel being really hot..... It's been about 95-102 degrees lately and I still have the metal fuel line that runs vertical against the block. I installed a 160 degree thermostat today and it's getting there. I know that I need a better fuel pump though. It's going lean above 4500 rpm. I figured that I'll get a new pump and then re-route the fuel line away from the block. I think that the carb was also defective and it had a prob w/ the secondaries being slightly open.

Now, if i tune the motor to run at 14.7 -1, it dies so I tune it a bit rich on the IMS screws and it's doing better, just one extra light bar on the a/f gauge.

I think the spring is adequate that I am using, if there is anything I can't stand, it's a mega hard throttle pedal! I don't think that this spring is causing it, If I hop out of the car while it is at this high idle and press the throttle towards the idle speed screw, (to close them all the way) , it's tight and already up against the screw.

Thanks for the input guys,

IF YOU HAVE MORE INPUT, LET ME HEAR IT!!!

 

Carbed cars will not idle at 14.7:1 AFR. Tune the idle for max
manifold vacuum not AFR. Your AFR will be around 13:1 at idle.
Plug the Vacuum advance into "ported vacuum" source.
If your disconnected EGR valve is allowing EGR flow at idle
you'll have to remove it or hook it up to operate properly.
EGR should only flow at part throttle high vacuum cruise.
When it is hooked up and operating properly it will actually help driveability and mileage so don't be too quick to scrape it.
It allows you to run more advance at cruise with out detonation
on lower octane fuel as well as reducing emissions. (NOX)

Sounds like your choke and cold fast idle needs attention.

 

I think I have figured it out, The fuel pump is crap first off: anywhere above 5,000 rpm, the motor goes lean, and I know that this motor is not pulling more than 600 cfm at that point.

The stalling problem: I went a bit rich on the a/f ratio at idle and it's running better BUT: if I go any richer, it'll load up, as a matter of fact, it ran better when it was stalling all the time ( except for the stalling) I'm pretty darn sure that the fule is boiling cause it's so hot out here. IT RUNS ALMOST PERFECT AT NIGHT, and the cooling temperature is around 175-180 even at idle.

AS FAR AS THE A/F BEING 13-1 AT IDLE, I have read in mags that that is not true> 14.7-1 or at least 14>1 is the best because that way you won't load up. Maybe this is true on autos where you need like a 1100-1200 idle in park for a 800-900 idle in gear??? Having the most vacuum at idle sounds ideal but I run it at only 1 bar rich on the Nordskog meter, it almost wants to load up, not entirely crisp. At night it runs at about 14.3>1 I suspect (5 bars lit= 14.7>1 I have 6 bars lit, still in green lights)

You guys think that if I can get the new fuel pump and monitor the pressure, and get the fuel cool, I should be OK??? Also, IF THE FUEL GETS VERY HOT, PERHAPS BOILING, WILL THE FUEL PRESSURE GROW TO A HIGHER PSI???????? THIS COULD ALSO BE MY STALLING PROBLEM.

I took the egr vakve off because i had to put a carb spacer in the intake for the carb to fit with no clearane problems and also I couldn't fit my air cleaner on with the spacer on ( can't have that)

 

Perhaps using a thicker gasket under the carb would help. I know that's what they recommend for a QJet when it has boiling problems.

Maybe you could fit 2 gaskets in there, one on top of the other?

 

I think I'm gonna do the fuel pump thing, re- route the lines, and then get a cowl hood . A cowl hood usually makes a car run much cooler .

 

Good ideas or not, cure the prob. or not????

 

HI all

I'm new here, and to Camaros. I just purchased an 84 z28, 305 automatic. It seems to run ok, but I just needed to get a rebuilt Carburator put in. The car was hesitating, or burping, when I would accelerate off the line. I was told I needed a new accelerator pump and choke. Well I got my new rebuilt, and it's slow as hell!, and it still has the same burping problem. Anyone have any advice? I'd appreciate any feedback.