if i do get rid of my single-snorkel air cleaner what should put in replacement for it. could i just install a snazzy looking crome one or is it more efficient to do something else? an advice would be great!

 

For streetability, a dual snorkel is much better than an open element. Either a factory-type setup (getting harder to find, but you can try the classifieds), or a home-made dual snorkel per the tech article on this board.

 

yea, go with a dual snorkel unless your going to get some kind of cowl/ram air hood. then go open element.

 

I fitted an edlebrock open element about 3 weeks ago. guess what i am running now.

Clue, this pic was taken today.

 

I fabricated a dual-snorkel air cleaner from two singles and tested the before and after results with a home-made manometer. I was using a big shop vac to pull the air through.

There was a huge drop in vacuum inside the air cleaner body by installing the second snorkel. Removing the Thermac air valves and the air deflector in the body of the cleaner at the inside end of the snorkel made it flow even better. And it looks factory!

 

rusty got any pics and tips on making your own dual snorkel?

 

Sorry, no pics currently but next time my girlfriend and her digital camera are 'round I'll send you one.

There is a tech article within Thirdgen.org, it documents essentially the same thing I did, you might want to look at that.

My dual-snorkel unit is just like the one pictured in philoldsmobile's post but with a passenger's side snorkel as well.

I bought two bases from wreckers, a variety of lids with height ranging from stock to 2" higher than stock. I carefully ground the spot welds holding the snorkel to the base, cut an oval hole in the second base and used 'nibblers' to finish the shape of the hole to match the large end of the snorkel.

Then a buddy used a plasma-core welder to weld the second snorkel on, I finished the rough inside edges with epoxy, sanded it down and painted it matte black.

I also removed the ThermAC flaps and actuating rods (but not the diaphragms, to keep the stock look) and capped the hot-air inlets.

I was using a shop vac that claimed 160 cfm (equivalent to just under 100 HP worth of airflow), the manometer readings from inside the air cleaner assembly dropped from about 6 inches of water to about 1/2" after all the modifications.

It was an interesting lesson in where the restriction is. The low-profile F-body filter lid is the majority of the restriction, more than the air filter element itself. It sits down so close to the top of the carb, leaving a ring of maybe 3/4" tall to pull all the air through.

The ThermAC flaps are a pig too, so if you're not using them to pull warm air from the exhaust manifolds I would 'delete' them.

The plastic ducting from the snorkel to the rad support showed no measurable restriction, at this volume of airflow anyway.

There are different styles of air filter lids that fit the same diameter housing, some cone up to the centre, some down. I had better results with the ones that peak in the centre.

If you're using it in a different body with more height to work with a taller lid from an Impala or truck will let you put a much bigger filter in and open up the restriction within the housing.

There is a 'dam' just inside the filter housing where the snorkel meets the base. It forces the air to go around it instead of straight on to the filter. You'll want to lose that.

 

thanks a lot, i appreciate that, are the gains that noticable over an open element that its worth all the work?

 

Well, not really. An open element will breathe much better than my modified dual-snorkel job. I wouldn't use mine on a 383 or a serious 6500 RPM 350, it would choke it!

The dual-snorkel allows you to duct cool air into the engine, which is always worth something. It looks more factory too, which was one of my goals.

Right now I'm using a 3" K&N element in a GM crate motor open air cleaner assembly and it runs the fastest with this setup.

 

I've honestly never had road manners problems with the open element in my 84, ever.

 

Highly tuned short-stroke motors are more sensitive to tuning of the air filter resonance than say a 3.48" stroke 305 or 350.

 

One other thing is that if you get a factory dual snorkle it will flow better than the home made because each snorkle is bigger than the singles also meaning it can flow well over twice as much as a stock single.

Ben

 

I certainly did. When cold (20 degrees F) it would stumble off-idle ('bout got smacked at intersections a couple of times). When hot (85 degrees F) in stop and go, as temp got up to 200, it would stumble at part throttle.

 

I cant speak for the cold but out here in az, i have had no driveability probs with mine when its 115+ out, right now it gets to be about 70 for the high and my car is loving it, it is running so strong with this weather right now...

 

ditto, on the cold running stumble............... I swapped back to the stock air filter for winter, i thought that if it is stumbling now, carb icing must be just round the corner.

Nearly bid on a maserati 430 quatroporte on ebay.co.uk, on sunday, just before i submited my bid, I rememberd, £2 200 would mean another year (at least) in debt. must buy a house before another car, I can hardly find space to park one, let alone two!!!

 

Well, I can't exactly go out and test the 84, I'm still in the process of getting the jetting right

 

If you want to take advantage of the dual snorkle, get the inlets in some clean air to force some air in. I've been running a open element for quite some time K&N 14x3 on a holley carb. It starts, runs, and drives fine when it's below zero and when it's 100+ degrees. I had to do some tuning when I swapped on the open element-choke, accel pump, idle mix, vacuum secondary spring. Just the normal hollley stuff. I was running a custom (not by me) dual snorkle. The snorkles were small though, and weren't in 'clean' air--above the headlights. Don't expect to be able to change the air cleaner and not do a little tuning.
Nate

 

double post

 

get an open element, a dual snorkel will surely allow you to duct 'cooler' air in... but they don't flow NEARLY as good IMO... go with an open element... plus they look better

 

i have a harwood 4 inch cowl hood and i built a rear ram air setup, its made out of aluminum, it comes down and sourrounds the open element, and then has a duct to the cowl opening, its on the hood, fully lift off, its one sweet setup that i might be selling soon.