converting TPI 350 to carburetors
converting TPI 350 to carburetors
I want to convert my 350 small block TPI to a carburetor. Can i suck through my tank fuel pump? What has to be done to put a mechanical pumpon motor?
Can i use ANY ditributer?
Can i use ANY ditributer?
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,536
Likes: 204
From: NYC / Jersey
Car: 1990 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Turbo 305 w/MS2
Transmission: 700R4
Go with a non-computerized vacuum advance distributor, and get yourself an adjustable fuel preussure regulator (so you can use the stock pump) that'll drop pressure down to at least 5 psi...
Don't get a mehanical pump, unless you plan on keeping you're 350 completely stock for the remainder of it's life.
With the AFPR, you can compensate for any incraesed power (or cubes) in the future, and simply tune it with the aid of a fuel pressure gauge.
I have an 86 with a big block, and the AFPR is going to make life much easier for me in the future with obtaining the correct fuel pressure.... as opposed to removing the mechanical pump, then replacing it with a stronger one (the ole trial and error method as they say).
Don't get a mehanical pump, unless you plan on keeping you're 350 completely stock for the remainder of it's life.
With the AFPR, you can compensate for any incraesed power (or cubes) in the future, and simply tune it with the aid of a fuel pressure gauge.
I have an 86 with a big block, and the AFPR is going to make life much easier for me in the future with obtaining the correct fuel pressure.... as opposed to removing the mechanical pump, then replacing it with a stronger one (the ole trial and error method as they say).
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 319
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Car: 1988 Firebird
Engine: GM Performance Parts 350 HO
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: :(
I agree with everything Street said except for one thing. I wouldn't use an AFPR with a TPI fuel pump. The pressure is too much. It'll probably leak. It leaks a little even with my TBI pump. You CAN suck thru the stock pump, but I don't know anyone whos done it or how well it works.
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,536
Likes: 204
From: NYC / Jersey
Car: 1990 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Turbo 305 w/MS2
Transmission: 700R4
Three Port AFPR....
I was also worried about that in the beginning of the installation. I plumbed into the fuel lines just above the water pump (I made my cuts after the fuel lines are clamped down with the stock factory bracket), then installed the AFPR...
Hooking up both the delivery and return lines.... I then waited for about 2 hours for the thread sealant to cure. After finally deciding where to reroute the line from the relay (to give the fuel pump juice to work), I turned the key 'on'.... and waited for the results.
I then installed a 'see through' fuel filter just after the AFPR, to make sure the CARB was getting fuel....
So far so good. I've driven the car for quite a number of miles, and put quite an amount of 'load' on it.... while running down the quarter mile at Raceway Park. Even with a heavy load, and even with temp running nar 200 degrees, she didn't spill a drop.
The return line on the AFPR is the key, as even when observing the fuel in the see through fuel filter (Russell filter BTW), it's not as 'full' as you'd expect. Mainly because whatever excess is trying to make it's way out.... the return line sends it right back to the tank.
I'd highly recommend for those who don't have the time (or experience) in dropping the fuel tank....
Hooking up both the delivery and return lines.... I then waited for about 2 hours for the thread sealant to cure. After finally deciding where to reroute the line from the relay (to give the fuel pump juice to work), I turned the key 'on'.... and waited for the results.
I then installed a 'see through' fuel filter just after the AFPR, to make sure the CARB was getting fuel....
So far so good. I've driven the car for quite a number of miles, and put quite an amount of 'load' on it.... while running down the quarter mile at Raceway Park. Even with a heavy load, and even with temp running nar 200 degrees, she didn't spill a drop.
The return line on the AFPR is the key, as even when observing the fuel in the see through fuel filter (Russell filter BTW), it's not as 'full' as you'd expect. Mainly because whatever excess is trying to make it's way out.... the return line sends it right back to the tank.
I'd highly recommend for those who don't have the time (or experience) in dropping the fuel tank....

Supreme Member

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,009
Likes: 5
From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Back when I converted to carb I used the stock TPI pump and a Mallory return-style regulator. The only problem I had was the fuel pressure would rapidly bounce back and forth from 3-7psi ...car ran fine though. If you use cheapo rubber hose and clamps its definately going to leak ...so use braided line and fittings. Also, as said above, you MUST use a return style regulator. The stock pump will overheat and die if you don't.
Dropping the gas tank in my car was the most horrifying experience ever ...Its got sharp edges, it doesn't want to come out, and its just as fun getting back in.
Dropping the gas tank in my car was the most horrifying experience ever ...Its got sharp edges, it doesn't want to come out, and its just as fun getting back in.
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 920
Likes: 0
From: Saskatchewan
Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 454 Demon 850DP
Transmission: TH350, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Ditto on the braided hoses and aeroquip fittings. Don't use rubber hose and clamps. I have had my Mallory 4309 with braided hose and aeroquip fitttings for a couple of years and no leak anywhere and my fuel pressure at the carb stays rock solid.
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