Choke spring help
Choke spring help
Ok my car when started idles at 1800 rpm, When it warms up it idles at 1100, 900 in gear. After a few minutes it idles at 400-600 and cuts off it i dont hit the gas. I'm missing a spring on the carb for the choke i believe, can anyone show me a picture of their stock carb? If i get the spring will this fix the low idle and extremely high idle?
Thankx
Thankx
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The fast idle cam is a weight thing between the choke housing and carb body. It is 100% gravity, so unless there is something wrong with the gravity where you live, it doesn't need a spring.
The fast idle cam is stepped to give different idle speeds at various points in the choke operation. Before you start the engine cold, you need to depress the throttle a little to both squirt a little fuel into the intake (via the accelerator pump), and to allow the fast idle cam to "set" (spring up via the choke thermostat) by moving the fast idle set screw away from the cam. Once the engine starts, the set screw will hold the cam in place unless the throttle is tapped. And, the choke pull-off should open the choke enough that the fast idle cam will drop off of the highest step when you do tap the throttle.
As the engine warms up and the choke comes off, you have to have the throttle off of idle in order for the fast idle cam to drop down to lower steps. Since typical operation would include driving that will have the throttle off idle, this isn't a problem. If yours doesn't drop down with the throttle off idle, it's got a sticking problem that is probably caused by gummed up mechanisms.
If you go to start the car cold, depress the throttle, start the car, and let it warm up w/o ever touching the throttle, it will idle fast for hours when everything is working properly - until the throttle is tapped.
This site http://www.carbs.net/Quads/E4MC.htm has an expanded view of the carb. The fast idle cam is part # 352.
The fast idle cam is stepped to give different idle speeds at various points in the choke operation. Before you start the engine cold, you need to depress the throttle a little to both squirt a little fuel into the intake (via the accelerator pump), and to allow the fast idle cam to "set" (spring up via the choke thermostat) by moving the fast idle set screw away from the cam. Once the engine starts, the set screw will hold the cam in place unless the throttle is tapped. And, the choke pull-off should open the choke enough that the fast idle cam will drop off of the highest step when you do tap the throttle.
As the engine warms up and the choke comes off, you have to have the throttle off of idle in order for the fast idle cam to drop down to lower steps. Since typical operation would include driving that will have the throttle off idle, this isn't a problem. If yours doesn't drop down with the throttle off idle, it's got a sticking problem that is probably caused by gummed up mechanisms.
If you go to start the car cold, depress the throttle, start the car, and let it warm up w/o ever touching the throttle, it will idle fast for hours when everything is working properly - until the throttle is tapped.
This site http://www.carbs.net/Quads/E4MC.htm has an expanded view of the carb. The fast idle cam is part # 352.
Thanks. Now i got the fast idle problem fixed. But instead of the rpm dropping to maybe 1100 parked and 800-900 in gear it drops to 500 rpm in parked and in gear, whats could this possibly be?? air/fuel mixture?? This is really dangerous because it cuts off if i dont keep the rpm up.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
500 is the spec warmed-up idle speed in gear for an LG4. If it acts like it wants to die at that speed, you need to get things up to snuff - ignition, carb adjustments, etc.
You should probably look into investing in a shop manual that covers your car so you can see how these things are to be done. A few tools like dwell/tach, adjustment screwdrivers, etc. would also be good investments.
You should probably look into investing in a shop manual that covers your car so you can see how these things are to be done. A few tools like dwell/tach, adjustment screwdrivers, etc. would also be good investments.
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