Which carb should I get?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 81
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From: Michigan
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Which carb should I get?
I am looking into buy a new carb for the 305 in my '84 trans am. I was wondering if I should go with the barry grant road demon jr 525 cfm? Or should I go with an edelbrock or holley carb? If you are running a road demon jr on your engine please let me know if you like it and have encountered any problems with it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
ya it is stock and needs to be rebuilt. there is no use in rebuilding it though because you can rebuild a carb 50 times and it still wont deliver the performance that it should.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Baloney.
The symptoms you describe could just as much be ignition problems.
If you replace the carb, first you're going to have to mount it. The Road Demon Jr. is a square bore carb, which won't mount to your intake manifold. You'll either have to change the manifold to an aftermarket type that has both patterns (or at least the square bore pattern), or use an adapter which will raise the level of the carb and air cleaner. Then you'll need to replace the distributor, because the stock part (assuming you're not from Canada) is computer controlled. If you have an automatic transmission, you'll have to rig up a way to lock up the torque converter clutch - to say nothing of the problems mounting the TV cable brings. Finally, if you have emissions inspection, you've just flunked. The end result will be no better performance (unless you have an ignition problem that the new distributor fixed), and certainly less fuel economy than the factory system is capable of delivering when tuned properly.
First, get your ignition up to snuff. A tune-up (if it isn't fresh) of spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It's also quite possible that the coil and control module are weak (happens a lot to stock parts). Make sure the timing is set properly, and advancing a little more than the factory setting often helps eliminate hesitation and improve overall power. If that doesn't fix the problem, then go through the carb and make sure it is not damaged and get everything adjusted properly.
Mine had been developing a hesitation problem and mileage & power were dropping. A thorough tune-up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) fixed all that. I had also picked up a carb rebuild kit, still haven't touched that - ever, actually, in 4 years. All I've done to the carb is adjust idle settings and tune the secondaries through rods & hanger.
Unless your carb has been maimed, spending several hundred dollars on an aftermarket replacement will not "fix" anything.
Let's be completely clear on this: The power limiting list of an LG4 is long and distinguished, but the carb is not on that list.
The symptoms you describe could just as much be ignition problems.
If you replace the carb, first you're going to have to mount it. The Road Demon Jr. is a square bore carb, which won't mount to your intake manifold. You'll either have to change the manifold to an aftermarket type that has both patterns (or at least the square bore pattern), or use an adapter which will raise the level of the carb and air cleaner. Then you'll need to replace the distributor, because the stock part (assuming you're not from Canada) is computer controlled. If you have an automatic transmission, you'll have to rig up a way to lock up the torque converter clutch - to say nothing of the problems mounting the TV cable brings. Finally, if you have emissions inspection, you've just flunked. The end result will be no better performance (unless you have an ignition problem that the new distributor fixed), and certainly less fuel economy than the factory system is capable of delivering when tuned properly.
First, get your ignition up to snuff. A tune-up (if it isn't fresh) of spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It's also quite possible that the coil and control module are weak (happens a lot to stock parts). Make sure the timing is set properly, and advancing a little more than the factory setting often helps eliminate hesitation and improve overall power. If that doesn't fix the problem, then go through the carb and make sure it is not damaged and get everything adjusted properly.
Mine had been developing a hesitation problem and mileage & power were dropping. A thorough tune-up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) fixed all that. I had also picked up a carb rebuild kit, still haven't touched that - ever, actually, in 4 years. All I've done to the carb is adjust idle settings and tune the secondaries through rods & hanger.
Unless your carb has been maimed, spending several hundred dollars on an aftermarket replacement will not "fix" anything.
Let's be completely clear on this: The power limiting list of an LG4 is long and distinguished, but the carb is not on that list.
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