Reman Carb Install-Tuning Help!!!
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 305V8
Transmission: 5 Speed
Reman Carb Install-Tuning Help!!!
I had posted a while ago in regards to my Rochester rebuilt I put on....couldn't get that one to run right and the store gave me another. It finally warmed up enough to get outside and put the new one on.....question is now:
She will start but runs horrible. It runs like she has a huge cam and blows smoke out the pipes. It has never done that before, so what would cause it to run like that?
I'm not sure what to adjust on the new carb. It says all the settings are set to factory specs, and they don't need adjusting, but I find it hard to believe. I went from an almost perfect running TA to a vehicle that barely runs now. ANY HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED!!!
She will start but runs horrible. It runs like she has a huge cam and blows smoke out the pipes. It has never done that before, so what would cause it to run like that?
I'm not sure what to adjust on the new carb. It says all the settings are set to factory specs, and they don't need adjusting, but I find it hard to believe. I went from an almost perfect running TA to a vehicle that barely runs now. ANY HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED!!!
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
If it's the correct model carb for your vehicle, it should run pretty well right out of the box and only require some minor tuning.
Looked at some of your prior posts. Is this the second rebuilt carburetor? Did the carb include new/rebuilt choke assembly? Was the carb gasket in good shape? Did you ever resolve the idle speed issue, or is this second carb another stab at fixing that?
Looks like you got some good info on earlier posts and I suspect the carb may not have been the underlying problem. Give us some more details. I'll check back in the morning if you haven't gotten help from someone else.
Looked at some of your prior posts. Is this the second rebuilt carburetor? Did the carb include new/rebuilt choke assembly? Was the carb gasket in good shape? Did you ever resolve the idle speed issue, or is this second carb another stab at fixing that?
Looks like you got some good info on earlier posts and I suspect the carb may not have been the underlying problem. Give us some more details. I'll check back in the morning if you haven't gotten help from someone else.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 305V8
Transmission: 5 Speed
This is the second carb. I had brought the other one to a mechanic and he said bring it back. There was something internally hanging up and it wasn't working properly. So that's what I did. Put the new one on yesterday and now the car runs even worse. The car ran perfect except that it had lost some power over the years and I said well a new carb will do the trick.....now I have a car that won't even barely run. It's definitely a choke issue....It's not set right. And I know what you are saying....usually you take them out of the box and put them on and they will run really good.....not mine!
You start it up and it's really lumpy and blowing gas blue smoke out the tailpipes.....it's just awful.....someone else told me it's running way to rich and needs to be leaned out....so I'm trying to learn what settings need to be corrected and how to do it.....
You start it up and it's really lumpy and blowing gas blue smoke out the tailpipes.....it's just awful.....someone else told me it's running way to rich and needs to be leaned out....so I'm trying to learn what settings need to be corrected and how to do it.....
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
The carb will lean itself out as long as everything is operating properly (electronically) and a few adjustments are made.
1. Verify that it's the correct model for your vehicle.
2. Make sure the mixture control solenoid is functioning. You should hear it clicking when the ignition is turned on prior to starting. You may even hear it clicking while the engine is running, but the engine sound usually masks it.
3. Connect a dwell meter to the green single wire connector near the firewall behind the passenger side strut mount (and a ground). Borrow one if you don't have one or ~$30 at a parts store. The dwell reading with the engine warmed up at idle (make sure the choke blade is at 90 degrees) should be near 30 degrees (on the V6 scale) and should vary as you blip the throttle. If it stays at or near 10 degrees the engine is running full rich and you have a sensor/computer problem or the engine isn't warmed up yet. If it moves you can start making carb adjustments to get it where you need it.
Recommend you get or borrow a haynes or chilton manual as they are inexpensive and can walk you through the carb/choke adjustment steps and include some photos to help out.
Post with your results.
1. Verify that it's the correct model for your vehicle.
2. Make sure the mixture control solenoid is functioning. You should hear it clicking when the ignition is turned on prior to starting. You may even hear it clicking while the engine is running, but the engine sound usually masks it.
3. Connect a dwell meter to the green single wire connector near the firewall behind the passenger side strut mount (and a ground). Borrow one if you don't have one or ~$30 at a parts store. The dwell reading with the engine warmed up at idle (make sure the choke blade is at 90 degrees) should be near 30 degrees (on the V6 scale) and should vary as you blip the throttle. If it stays at or near 10 degrees the engine is running full rich and you have a sensor/computer problem or the engine isn't warmed up yet. If it moves you can start making carb adjustments to get it where you need it.
Recommend you get or borrow a haynes or chilton manual as they are inexpensive and can walk you through the carb/choke adjustment steps and include some photos to help out.
Post with your results.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 305V8
Transmission: 5 Speed
Ok, got her running long enough for her to warm up....This carb idles perfect at 700rpm...no more high idling
Now I just have to adjust the cold idle start....the choke has to be adjusted and will take a few days to get it right....I'll keep you posted..
Now I just have to adjust the cold idle start....the choke has to be adjusted and will take a few days to get it right....I'll keep you posted.. Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 305V8
Transmission: 5 Speed
Ok well brought her to a shop as I didn't have enough time to keep adjusting her.....after she has warmed up for some time she will idle correctly around 700.....problem is now......after I got her back is that she doesn't run down the road well at all when cold.
The guy at the shop said she keeps bogging down and the high idle cam will not come off as quickly as it should. He also stated that the choke isn't opening up as fast as it should....so it's choking the car a little.
When I picked her up today, "bogging down" as he said is not the word for it. She sputters and feels like she loading up as she wants to go, but may be running real rich and fouling up the plugs....The high idle cam is definitely staying on to long and you can't kick it down and keep it down.....never had this prob before. Definitely feels as though she's being choked. After about five miles it finally let go, and then I noticed when I shifted through the gears, right when you go from 1st to 2nd and try to step on the gas she will bog down again....and all of a sudden catch and go....it does this through every gear shift.
I also noticed she doesn't run as smoothly anymore when idling. Please tell me why I keep getting people that don't know how to adjust a carb and keep messing it up worse....
Also all I know is that the original carb worked great with no problems, it was just getting old and was a little down on power.....
Does anyone have an original rochester carb that belongs on a 86 TA with a 305 5spd?????and how about a heat riser, as mine is almost dead? Thanks in advance for the help!!
The guy at the shop said she keeps bogging down and the high idle cam will not come off as quickly as it should. He also stated that the choke isn't opening up as fast as it should....so it's choking the car a little.
When I picked her up today, "bogging down" as he said is not the word for it. She sputters and feels like she loading up as she wants to go, but may be running real rich and fouling up the plugs....The high idle cam is definitely staying on to long and you can't kick it down and keep it down.....never had this prob before. Definitely feels as though she's being choked. After about five miles it finally let go, and then I noticed when I shifted through the gears, right when you go from 1st to 2nd and try to step on the gas she will bog down again....and all of a sudden catch and go....it does this through every gear shift.
I also noticed she doesn't run as smoothly anymore when idling. Please tell me why I keep getting people that don't know how to adjust a carb and keep messing it up worse....
Also all I know is that the original carb worked great with no problems, it was just getting old and was a little down on power.....
Does anyone have an original rochester carb that belongs on a 86 TA with a 305 5spd?????and how about a heat riser, as mine is almost dead? Thanks in advance for the help!!
Last edited by rumble-b; Oct 20, 2004 at 04:33 PM.
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