Mild vapor-lock?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
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From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
Mild vapor-lock?
I don't think it's actually vapor lock, but thats the only way I can describe it for a title 
Anyway, if I turn the car off after about 20 minutes of driving and then start it back up (up to maybe about an hour later) the car will idle real low and bog out when I put it in drive (unless I give it some gas at the same time).
A friend of mine told me that the carburetor is probably getting hot, and that I should stick some sort of aluminum "shield" inbetween the carb and the manifold, that might dissipate the heat before it gets to the carb. Would that help? Where might I pick up something like that?
Once I get moving everything is fine, and after a few minutes it will idle just fine with no problems, the problem is only for the first minute or so upon starting up again while I'm idling.
Does anyone know what exactly is going on? I have a feeling that as summer gets closer, it's going to get worse if it is a heat related problem..
Thanks!
BTW, I'm running an Edelbrock 600cfm Performer EC, and GM ZZ4 intake. The engine temperature is no where near over heating.

Anyway, if I turn the car off after about 20 minutes of driving and then start it back up (up to maybe about an hour later) the car will idle real low and bog out when I put it in drive (unless I give it some gas at the same time).
A friend of mine told me that the carburetor is probably getting hot, and that I should stick some sort of aluminum "shield" inbetween the carb and the manifold, that might dissipate the heat before it gets to the carb. Would that help? Where might I pick up something like that?
Once I get moving everything is fine, and after a few minutes it will idle just fine with no problems, the problem is only for the first minute or so upon starting up again while I'm idling.
Does anyone know what exactly is going on? I have a feeling that as summer gets closer, it's going to get worse if it is a heat related problem..
Thanks!
BTW, I'm running an Edelbrock 600cfm Performer EC, and GM ZZ4 intake. The engine temperature is no where near over heating.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 46
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
You can also install a heat isolator shield between the mechanical fuel pump and the engine block. It's like a thick gasket.
On my car,(origional V6 EFI car) using long tube headers, the fuel line runs along the frame rail real close to the header collector on the drivers side. It's too close and picks up a lot of heat off the header at that point.
Have to reroute the fuel line to the outside of the frame rail.
Have a look under your car and if its the same, move the fuel line.
On my car,(origional V6 EFI car) using long tube headers, the fuel line runs along the frame rail real close to the header collector on the drivers side. It's too close and picks up a lot of heat off the header at that point.
Have to reroute the fuel line to the outside of the frame rail.
Have a look under your car and if its the same, move the fuel line.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
five7kid:
There is a Holley and a Mr. Gasket shield on Summit. Is the Holley designed only for Holley carbs, or does it really matter which one? The holley shield looks larger, so I assume it would dissapate heat better?
The Mr. Gasket shield reads: "4 hole Square Bore 1/2" Thick", I'm not quite sure what the Edelbrock 1406 is.
F-BIRD'88:
I'm going to be checking my fuel lines next chance I get, thanks! Being that the car used to be TPI, and now it's carbed, that might be the problem because the lines ran for an EFI configuration with much more PSI, so I guess it didn't matter how close they got to the heat?
There is a Holley and a Mr. Gasket shield on Summit. Is the Holley designed only for Holley carbs, or does it really matter which one? The holley shield looks larger, so I assume it would dissapate heat better?
The Mr. Gasket shield reads: "4 hole Square Bore 1/2" Thick", I'm not quite sure what the Edelbrock 1406 is.
F-BIRD'88:
I'm going to be checking my fuel lines next chance I get, thanks! Being that the car used to be TPI, and now it's carbed, that might be the problem because the lines ran for an EFI configuration with much more PSI, so I guess it didn't matter how close they got to the heat?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 46
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The most important part is that it fits the opening and mounts - which will be the same whether Edelbrock or 4160/4150 Holley. I had to make a slight tweak to get the Holley shield to clear the Holley choke fast idle screw.
My original V6 carb car brings the fuel up the rail just like TPI does. With shorties, the exhaust is farther away from the line than the factory V8 carb line is.
My original V6 carb car brings the fuel up the rail just like TPI does. With shorties, the exhaust is farther away from the line than the factory V8 carb line is.
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