Choke sticking partially open even without +12v, runs hot, help
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Choke sticking partially open even without +12v, runs hot, help
NEW TO CARBS, I have no idea what's going on
Edelbrock 1406 (electric choke- not even plugged in)
TBI-to-carb swap, running at 5-6psi
Car was idling very nicely at about 600-800 on its own power for a good 10 minutes or so. I shut it off because it was getting hot, about 220-240 degrees. After I shut it off I tried starting it again after I gave the exterior a wash, and it was idling at like 2000+. I noticed the choke is partially stuck open and won't close. Even if I push it closed, it just returns open again. The damn choke isn't even wired up yet, but I do understand it's a heater coil inside of it which expands with heat. I'm wondering if the choke is partially open due to the engine temperatures around it.
There are no vacuum leaks, and I am 100% sure. There is only one vacuum line I am using and that's to the distributor. The rest are plugged. I am fairly sure my throttle cable is not binding up, also. The throttle arm has full range of motion, and a return spring pulling pretty hard.
I am running about 12-14 degrees advanced base timing (I pulled the vac line to the distributor and plugged it) which I checked today. When the vacuum is pulling, it's about 24 degrees advanced at idle. I have no idea where I should be setting my timing to, seeing as my computer did all that base timing for me with the LO3.
I have a very basic understanding of carbs. I put this motor together and fired it up for its first time this week. I don't know how to tell really if I am running lean besides the obvious symptoms (hot, sputtering) nor what I should do about it. I don't know what's causing it to happen (if indeed I am running lean) either.
Any help would be completely awesome.
Edelbrock 1406 (electric choke- not even plugged in)
TBI-to-carb swap, running at 5-6psi
Car was idling very nicely at about 600-800 on its own power for a good 10 minutes or so. I shut it off because it was getting hot, about 220-240 degrees. After I shut it off I tried starting it again after I gave the exterior a wash, and it was idling at like 2000+. I noticed the choke is partially stuck open and won't close. Even if I push it closed, it just returns open again. The damn choke isn't even wired up yet, but I do understand it's a heater coil inside of it which expands with heat. I'm wondering if the choke is partially open due to the engine temperatures around it.
There are no vacuum leaks, and I am 100% sure. There is only one vacuum line I am using and that's to the distributor. The rest are plugged. I am fairly sure my throttle cable is not binding up, also. The throttle arm has full range of motion, and a return spring pulling pretty hard.
I am running about 12-14 degrees advanced base timing (I pulled the vac line to the distributor and plugged it) which I checked today. When the vacuum is pulling, it's about 24 degrees advanced at idle. I have no idea where I should be setting my timing to, seeing as my computer did all that base timing for me with the LO3.
I have a very basic understanding of carbs. I put this motor together and fired it up for its first time this week. I don't know how to tell really if I am running lean besides the obvious symptoms (hot, sputtering) nor what I should do about it. I don't know what's causing it to happen (if indeed I am running lean) either.
Any help would be completely awesome.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
The 12V OPENS the choke, it does not CLOSE it. It closes by itself when it's cool enough; then the 12V heats the thermostat that makes it open.
Without 12V, the choke will try to stay closed 100% of the time.
Hook the 12V up.
With an electric choke choke that doesn't have electricity, I'd be VERY surprised if your car is running lean.
Without 12V, the choke will try to stay closed 100% of the time.
Hook the 12V up.
With an electric choke choke that doesn't have electricity, I'd be VERY surprised if your car is running lean.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by RB83L69
The 12V OPENS the choke, it does not CLOSE it. It closes by itself when it's cool enough; then the 12V heats the thermostat that makes it open.
Without 12V, the choke will try to stay closed 100% of the time.
Hook the 12V up.
With an electric choke choke that doesn't have electricity, I'd be VERY surprised if your car is running lean.
The 12V OPENS the choke, it does not CLOSE it. It closes by itself when it's cool enough; then the 12V heats the thermostat that makes it open.
Without 12V, the choke will try to stay closed 100% of the time.
Hook the 12V up.
With an electric choke choke that doesn't have electricity, I'd be VERY surprised if your car is running lean.
why else would I be idling at 2000+ if I wasn't lean?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Because the choke is partly closed, and the throttle is up onto the fast idle cam. It's doing exactly what it's supposed to do. The purpose of the fast idle cam is to raise the idle speed (duh) when the choke is fully or partway closed, to help the engine avoid dying when cold.
The choke may stay partway open by itself, if it's warm enough.
I promise you, it closes by itself based on the temperature of the thermostat, and the 12V heats the thermostat and makes it open.
Try blocking the whole linkage in the open position with a piece of wire or something, and see if it settles down.
Or, try hooking it up right; which is to hook the choke to a relatively high-current source of ignition-switched 12V. Preferably without hacking any wires if possible. Like run a wire to the fusebox through one of the holes in the firewall.
The choke may stay partway open by itself, if it's warm enough.
I promise you, it closes by itself based on the temperature of the thermostat, and the 12V heats the thermostat and makes it open.
Try blocking the whole linkage in the open position with a piece of wire or something, and see if it settles down.
Or, try hooking it up right; which is to hook the choke to a relatively high-current source of ignition-switched 12V. Preferably without hacking any wires if possible. Like run a wire to the fusebox through one of the holes in the firewall.
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