I posted this on the electronic board but it failed to generate any responses. Maybe here.

I'd like the idle to bump up when the A/C is turned on and return to curb idle when turned off. As is, the solenoid is energized with the ignition regardless of whether the A/C is activated or not. The relay and solenoid are new. The computer has been removed as well as the 10 amp fuse that controlled it. Here's the wiring diagram:

http://www.geocities.com/vtcamaro/Pi...rams/pg145.jpg


I joined, as an experiement, the green wire from the pressure cycling switch to the blue wire of the solenoid. In this configuration, the solenoid functioned as I wish, but I'm somewhat leery that that 'fix' without a relay would cause problems.

Suggestions would be much appreciated.

JamesC

 

There's no real reason that you need a relay. Alot of older cars were wired exactly like that. Some older cars also had the solenoid connected before the low pressure switch; which seems kind of goofy, since that way, the idle will be 1200 RPM or whatever, when the switch cycles the AC off like when you're using the defroster on a cold day or something. But, for better or worse, that's what they did.

You'll probably find however that the solenoid probably doesn't have the nads to raise the idle when it energizes. They're only designed to have enough power to hold the throttle up, not to push it off the screw. You might could make something out of an IAC motor that works on the throttle linkage (I remember working on a mid-80s Cutlass with a Buick 6-cyl that had that); you WOULD need a relay for that though, because you'd want it to extend fully when the AC comes on, and retract fully when it goes off, and adjust the fully extended position for the AC-on idle speed you want, which takes 2 wires, 12V & ground, being hooked one to the IAC one way to extend, and in reverse to retract.

 

I get elves on an assembly line when I click on the link.

The purpose of a relay is to lower the current that passes through the controlling switch. In this case, it would be your heater control.

The kicker solenoid should be fairly low current. A relay would be a safe way to go, but, of course, it'll also add one potential failure point to the circuit.

 

I got elves too. Posted the link again above and it worked (this time). Any particular kind/type of relay recommended?

JamesC