holley hookup with brake booster
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 46
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From: kiln, ms
Car: 05 corolla xrs, 05 hayabusa, 91 rs
Engine: 383
Transmission: t56
holley hookup with brake booster
here is my problem. i have an edelbrock performer rpm intake. i am putting a holley 750 dp on top. the bottom of the carb sits directly over where the vacuum fitting for the brake booster hooks up. anyone else ever had this problem? can i plug the hole and hook the brake booster into the pcv fitting on the carb or is that a bad idea?
If you don't have one already, you can buy a 90* vacuum fitting that would screw into that location and maybe fit under the rear bowl of your carb (local parts store in the brass fittings section- 3/8" NPT thread, 90* to a 3/8" hose nipple).
You can plug the brake booster into the PCV port, but don't share it with the PCV valve except as a last resort (yes, I've done it and it works decent but I don't like the thought of all that oil vapor maybe getting into the brake booster). If you happen to have 2 large vacuum ports on that carb (I know, most Holleys don't have 2) then plug one into each port.
You can plug the brake booster into the PCV port, but don't share it with the PCV valve except as a last resort (yes, I've done it and it works decent but I don't like the thought of all that oil vapor maybe getting into the brake booster). If you happen to have 2 large vacuum ports on that carb (I know, most Holleys don't have 2) then plug one into each port.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 361
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From: Huntington, West Virginia
Car: 1985 Camaro Z/28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: One-Wheel-WOnder 3.08
The port that you want to hook up the PCV to is not for the PCV. The PCV valve should be connected to a source of vaccum. I'm pretty sure that fitting on the air cleaner is for the the crankcase air intake. The best way to do it is try Damon's idea about the 90* fitting. If that doesn't work, plug it and tap a new fitting- that's what I had to do. Not the best idea to have your brake booster td-off with the PCV.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
You can also drill and tap a carb spacer to take a hose barb, or just use the spacer to get enough clearance for a fitting on the manifold.
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Ditto on tapping carb spacers, best luck with aluminum, but I dont like the heat transfer of the aluminum so I have 2 plastic spacers that are tapped....this takes time and patience since you can crack/split them out if you get too carried away and I still use silicone on the barb fitting threads before threading in place.
I dont know if you'll have clearance for a spacer to do this, but if you do try it, DO NOT FORGET to check base of spacer and gasket, I jad to drill out all the way through both of mine and notch out the gasket so it would recieve a vaccum signal, if you dont check/do this you will not get anything.
Another option that I do is to drill/tap the manifold itself just below the carb base...that way it's hooked up all the time and if working on your carb it's one less thing you have to continually disconnect/reconnect.
I dont know if you'll have clearance for a spacer to do this, but if you do try it, DO NOT FORGET to check base of spacer and gasket, I jad to drill out all the way through both of mine and notch out the gasket so it would recieve a vaccum signal, if you dont check/do this you will not get anything.
Another option that I do is to drill/tap the manifold itself just below the carb base...that way it's hooked up all the time and if working on your carb it's one less thing you have to continually disconnect/reconnect.
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