So if I switch from tpi to carb can I get rid of my harness?

 

Yep

 

So does the harness affect the distributor?

 

You'll need a new dist. I ripped everything out of my engine bay and run an MSD 6AL and Pro Billet full mechanical distributor. You can get away with a GM or ProForm non-computer controlled unit but I like MSD. You'll need a fuel regulator, TV calbe brackets and new cables and quite a few other odds and ends.

 

How did you mount your regulator and run your fuel lines.

 

I also got rid of my heater and a/c so I made a plate for the firewall and mounted it there along with my msd box. I'll post a pic this afternoon.

 

So i just remove the ecm then the big block up on the drivers side?

 

Yep. You'll need a converter lockup switch too.

 

What is wrong with your TPI? I want to switch to TPI and I would trade I have everything you would need and I am sure you have everything I need if it works that way.

 

when I was taking out the ecm i notice it was connected to some wires that ran up into the dash. What are those for?

 

it might be less headache to try to just hide the wires instead of cutting them. there is a little box on top if your ecm that contols the electronic speedo, if you have one. you will also need to ground out the oil pressure switch that is right by your oil filter, i believe that the ecm just grounds that to turn the fuel pump on. you will also have to run switches to your fan(s) to cool your car. the white wire going to your distributor is for your tach in the car, and the green? is for the temp gauge. just make sure if your gunna cut some wires that you double and triple check that they are unneeded

 

You can rip out every wire under the hood. You'll have to run a wire from each sender to the interior for the gauges and wire a fan switch. Also going to need a fuel pump switch.

 

i would wait to rip out the wiring untill the engine is running and you dont have any issues with things not working...after that, rip away

 

If it's a carbed motor then there is nothing that you would need. Why would you install a motor with a wiring harness that you know you're going to rip out anyway? That's pointless and retarded. It's easier and neater to run your own wiring for the few things that you would need. You can run it where you want and take the time to hide the wires. As long as you know what you're doing you'll be fine.

 

Dailed_In youve been a big help. If you could show me some pics of what you did that would be great. Where can I get some like pigs tail for the wiring? Could the fan be set up for a certain temp or would i have to turn it on?

 

hey do what you want but it will be much easier to do with the wires there. if you like cut all the wires in the car and when it asks for the pink/black wire you dont have to look at a chopped harness and ask yourself "where is it now?"
im not saying to keep the harness...it would save you time to wait.
or just pull ALL the wiring and run a new fuse panel.

when i did my car i decided to wait. the car runs fine, now ill work on removing whats left.

 

i would like to not cut the harness because i need to sell it with my tpi

 

I have some pics that I'll post in a minute. They're in-progress pics, I havent hosted any finished pics yet.

For me and what I did with my car it was much easier to rip out the factory harness. The only things that I needed to wire up were the MSD box, cooling fan, starter and my gauges. I also ran new battery cables and with the stock harness out of the car I had to run a +12v. feed wire to the factory fuse block. I also ran a switched +12v. feed to my auxilliary fuse panel. It made absolutely no sense for me to strip a factory harness of everything but these things. It would have been a ton or work and absolutely hideous. I ran all of my wires inside the inner fender wells and through the passengers side fireawall, all out of sight. I got a universal fuseblock and mounted it on the firewall inside the passengers side footwell. All of my "aftermarket" stuff is wired off of that. It's 6 circuits. MSD, gauges power (they're all autometer), cooling fans and fuel pump. I ran the starter off of the factory relay behind the drivers side kick panel to the solenoid. I have a couple left over. As I went along I drew out a wiring diagram of everything. That way if there is a problem I can go back and trace it. I doubt I ever will need it since they're all simple circuits but it's nice to have. I run the fuel pump and fan off of relays and use 3 position switches. That way if a relay burns up, I can flip the switch that then turns on a backup power source to get me home. The backup source is just a direct 12v. feed from the battery.


Here's a couple pics. THe firewall plate has been painted black since then and the wires all run behind the plate.

 

looks nice

 

 

not to jack the thread, did you notice a difference with the msd box?

 

Here is a pic of what I have. I would be willing to just swap out the parts to make the change unless you really want a 350?

 

"Pointless and retarded" would be to run new wires when what you need is there and separate from what you are taking out.

But, I never was much of a fan of pointless effort. So, do whatever turns your crank.

 

Why does he need to keep the factory harness if he'll only be utilizing less than a dozen circtuits?

 

dialed in ,

Looks good and clean!

what throttle cable and bracket (s) did you use?

I am converting from TPI to Carb on a 5 speed car.

Steve