im haven the time of my life with this thing. i have an 84 chevy camaro 305 with a quadrajunk on it. it was running fine got gas and drove home and it shut off, with no indication of sputttering, or bogging down. its shooting gas out the carb, and it backfires if try to start for long period. i got it to start and it ran and was making a weird noise like a fan hitting metal or sumthin like that. does anybody know what to do? went to turn it back on it wont start again. im gettin fed up with car and would like so help. the carb had been rebuilt about a year ago. thanks bill

 

And why again do you think this is the fault of the carb?

 

what else could it be i have not the slittest idea what else it could be

 

Well first of all, I cant really see how a carb could make a fan hitting metal noise. Maybe you got some really bad gas? Is your timing correct?

 

i cant check the timing cause car wont start. i was wondering if maybe the timing has stretched? but would that make the carb shoot out gas?

 

yowza, you've got a schwack of problems.

your timing is off, hence the backfiring. Pull distributor, rotate motor to TDC on #1, put it back in and connect up the wires. try to start it. Hopefully you don't need to replace you chain just yet.


where is the gas shooting out of?

 

yeah lots of probs. its shootin out the top. i think the chain is strecthed causae of the pinging noise in the front when its running. could that be y the carb shoots gas to cause timing off?

 

yea, if the intake valve is open during your compression stroke, it'd blow air/fuel out the intake of the carb, and most likely catch on fire.

Still have eyebrows?

might want to do the timing chain then i'd guess, re-do your ignition timing, and try again.

 

yeah still got em....wait or do i? lol. well i went to napa and told em my prob and they said its my timing chain. so im gna try that

 

good call.

put it on right, do a search on "dot to dot", apparently there's some confusion in that. I'm not sure the exact way people tend to do it wrong, but it comes up often, so double check that you've got it right, it's a PITA to do twice.

 

yeah will do. will timing cause it to shoot out top to? they said it would but dunno

 

It can. But it's not always because of timing... Mine did that when I rebuilt it and hadnt worked the bugs out. The thing would run (barely) and then I would gas it and it would stumble and stall, and just as it stalled I would see a cloud of gas shoot out.

 

the pinging noise wouldnt be the timing then? it sounds as if its broken lose or strecthed and is beaten off the cover

 

Until the timing chain is doing what it is supposed to do, you can't make any assumptions about anything else.

 

The dot-to-dot thing:

You line the timing chain up dot to dot--that is, cam gear dot at 6 o'clock and crank gear dot at 12 o'clock. That gets the valve timing right.

HOWEVER, that puts you at TDC on the number SIX cylinder for ignition. If you stab the distributor and think you're at #1, you'll get it 180* out. Either point the rotor at #6, or after attaching the chain, rotate the engine so that the dot on the cam gear is at 12 o'clock and point the rotor at #1.

 

so u dont think its the timing chain then? i really dont know what else to do

 

?

No, he meant your main problem is your timing chain. Do that first as you'll never be able to get the car working right until it's perfect, then worry about your other problems, if there are any left.

 

ok ill do the timing chain sumtime next week im currently replacing the intake manifold, amd broke a bolt and got one that wont *** out by the carb. just my luck

 

Install your timing set as shown. That blue LocTite 242 is holding the cap screws in place on the cam sprocket, and I'd suggest you do that as well. Torque those bolts to 20 ft/lb.

Given that you seem to be a victim of "just my luck" at times, I'd also suggest you plan ahead and get:

1. A harmonic balancer puller;
2. A 6" length of 7/16-20 threaded rod, two 7/16-20 nuts, and a large washer to install the balancer once you get the new timing set installed;
3. Some clean grease on hand to lube the rear hub of the balancer before you install it so you don't tear the new front seal that you will install in the timing cover;
4. A jar of anti-seize compound such as LocTite/Permatex 133K;
5. A tube of teflon thread sealant such as LocTite 565 or 592 for the water pump bolts;
6. A torque wrench;
7. A timing set with either an inverted link (silent type) chain or true roller double row chain. Avoid the "street" or "truck" type roller chains, since they won't last much beyond 30,000 miles under normal use;
8. The necessary gasket set;
9. A couple gallons of coolant;
10. Enough oil to refill your sump after you drain it and a new oil filter;
11. Gasket adhesive or sealant to paste the gaskets on the timing chan cover and water pump to ease assembly.

Plan on about 4-5 hours for the job if you don't run into snags - We know your luck...

 

does anybody know how to ge the timing chain sprockets off???????? im haven a hell of a time and i also dont know how to put dmapener back on. i broke 8 teeth on my sprocket!

 

Cam gear should just come off. The crank gear usually requires a puller.

 

the crank puller ****ed up my threads for the little sprocket, now how do i fix that thread?

 

re-tap if possible. Otherwise drill larger and tap oversize, then use a helicoil if you want.

 

im gna retap it... umm whats a heli coil?

 

if you drill it out to 1/2"NF threads, then you'd put in a helicoil, to bring you back to 7/16"-NF threads.
It's a little tube sorta, with outer threads to go in a tapped hole, and inner threads to bring you back to your normal size that you want. It's very thin, so not really a tube, more of a coil of wire, or a coil of threads, if you can picture that. You can "peel" off threads on them.

Next time you're at a REAL auto shop, ask them for a heli coil, and just take a look at it, and ask them how you use one. That info will come in handy sooner or later.

 

There is no need to re-drill when tapping from 7/16-20 to 1/2-20. And no need for a HeliCoil. Just use a 1/2-20 bolt.

AFAIK, there is no HeliCoil that uses a 1/2-20 major diameter tap and provides a 7/16-20 finished thread. The special tap size for that would be more like 9/16-20, and the thread insert wiould only provide about 5/8" of thread depth. HeliCoils are a last resort, in my book. There are a lot better thread inserts available when the substrate is a solid as a crank snout. For something thin and unimportant as a transmission pan flange, coiled inserts are maybe O.K. as long as they don't back out with the fastener (like they often do).

 

Keysert Key-Locking Screw Thread Inserts <-----LINK

You can buy thread inserts that use standard taps.

Saves you having to use unusual drill size, special tap, and special insert tool.

Expensive, but when you really need one, pretty handy.

--97T--

 

 

thanks alot i got it retapped and got my timing chain and cover all doned..... got another quest. though. i wannaget new pulleys does anybody know the measurements of the pulleys i would need? also is 84 camaro a short or long water pump?

 

the waterpump - I wanna say long... I know all 3rd gens use the same one, and most SBC's are the same, 'cept for old vette's and certain trucks.

pulleys? why? Unless yours are broken ( doubt that ) then I wouldn't waste the cash on it.

 

im not sure bout pump either. i wana replace pulleys because id like to get aluminum to match my engine and everything

 

look at jegs or summit, but trick aluminum pulleys are gonna set u back a good bit.

 

you have an aluminum engine?

I think they're a waste of $, if you're going for underdriven stuff... I'd just clean 'em up and paint 'em silver if you want.

 

yehj i figured. does any body know the gas lead off fuel pump size? i wanna get a new pump today and im not sure what size it is.

 

It takes 5/8" AF... It's a straight fitting, not a pipe thread, or AN... I wanna say 1/2"-20...?
It's also a return style pump, with 3/8" hose fitting inlet, 5/16" hose fitting return. So three ports on it total.

 

yeah im lookin at new ones at summot and they dont make a 5/8. i wanna get a polished one. know anywhere to get one?

 

then i'm wrong on the size.
if anyone has it, 'specially polished, summit would.

 

once again in a stopping point. i forgot completely how to attach all the brackets and stuff for altenator. does anybody have a pic of the alt. area in there car??/ id appreciate it im so close to gettin her started!!!!!!!!!! help would be great thanks

 

here's my webspace:
https://webdisk.ucalgary.ca/~jmknopp...html/brackets/

there shoud be some helpful pics there, dig around that folder. I had the same problem a while ago.

oh, more importantly, here's my thread asking the EXACT same question, with the links to my pics, this should help (unless you run a/c or serp belts)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...hlight=bracket

 

thanks it was a big help... can u take the powersteering pulley off? how?

 

apparently. You can rent a power steering pulley puller I think, or maybe a normal pulley puller would work. I didn't bother with mine.

 

how do u get the lines off the powersteering? there on there real good any suggestions woulkd help thanks

 

the rubber return line should pull off. Well, "should". Obviously it doesn't. I cut mine off, and bought some new 3/8" hose.

The pressure line, use a 9/16" wrench, it's threaded into the housing. Maybe it's 5/8"... Either way, shouldn't be hard...

 

thansk again... i feel like a total idiot askin all these quest but once again i need sum guidiance. there are two belt sizes for powersteering and altenator. i used the big one for the alt is that right? cause the smaller one wont go around the crank pulley.... what are the groves im supposed to be in and do i got emm on backwards?????

 

the rest should just fall into place... if the belt won't fit, it's on the wrong one...

they should only fit in one groove, without looking OBVIOUSLY wrong...

 

but is the longer belt supposed to go on the alt. or the pwr steering?

 

basically does the powersteering belt go around the water pump pulley and crank?

 

yes. both alt and power steering pulleys go on the crank, and waterpump.

 

got any website or somethin i can use as a guide?

 

no....This is the easy part...

check my webspace again https://webdisk.ucalgary.ca/~jmknopp...html/brackets/
i've got a few pics there that show a few belts on.