choke pull-off
#1
choke pull-off
does anyone know of an adjustable choke pull-off
so i can adjust when the secondaries open?and yes i know you can drill it open,but i would like something more adjustable.av tension is already set to 0
thanks guys!
so i can adjust when the secondaries open?and yes i know you can drill it open,but i would like something more adjustable.av tension is already set to 0
thanks guys!
#2
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
av tension is already set to 0
The surest recipe I know of to guarantee yourself the privilege of enjoying the legendary "Quadra-Bog".
You don't need an adjustable choke pull-off; you need to properly calibrate your carb. I think once you undo the damage you did, you'll find your choke pull-off will damp the secondaries much more appropriately.
#3
i didn't change anything as ffor the choke pull off
it just seems that the secondaries seem to take too long to open fully
and i wanted to play with the rate as to which they open
it just seems that the secondaries seem to take too long to open fully
and i wanted to play with the rate as to which they open
#4
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I have never seen or heard of an adjustable one. You are basically stuck with drilling out the stock one (which is often not very easy to do because of the bend in the vacuum nipple neck). The restriction is at the body of the diaphragm inside the vacuum nipple- NOT the little hole in the end of the vacuum nipple, FYI. Drill the restriction out just a few thousands of an inch at a time- a little difference makes a lot of difference in the opening speed. You'll need jeweler's drills and a pin vice to do it becuase the restriction is typically under .020" (stock is a little more than half that, usually).
Don't worry about bad side-effects of having yours open more quickly- there basically aren't any unless you go too far (bog). The stock one often takes as long as 2-1/2 seconds to open. The one on my carb takes about 3/4 of a second. It just needs to "catch" the air valve door from slamming open wildly when the secondary throttles open for a tiny fraction of a second- the rest from there is smooth increases in airflow as the engine winds up through the RPMs- and the air valve tension spring is what should control opening rate from that point.
Once you get the pull-off opening more quickly you'll need to use more air valve tension to prevent a bog. Right now your stock one is opening so slowly it doesn't matter if you have any spring tension- the diaphragm is doing all the work slowing the air valve's opening. That will change once you have the pull-off opening more quickly. You'll have to put tension back in- usually on a cc-QJet you'll want at least half a turn from the zero tension point.
Don't worry about bad side-effects of having yours open more quickly- there basically aren't any unless you go too far (bog). The stock one often takes as long as 2-1/2 seconds to open. The one on my carb takes about 3/4 of a second. It just needs to "catch" the air valve door from slamming open wildly when the secondary throttles open for a tiny fraction of a second- the rest from there is smooth increases in airflow as the engine winds up through the RPMs- and the air valve tension spring is what should control opening rate from that point.
Once you get the pull-off opening more quickly you'll need to use more air valve tension to prevent a bog. Right now your stock one is opening so slowly it doesn't matter if you have any spring tension- the diaphragm is doing all the work slowing the air valve's opening. That will change once you have the pull-off opening more quickly. You'll have to put tension back in- usually on a cc-QJet you'll want at least half a turn from the zero tension point.
Last edited by Damon; 12-22-2006 at 07:20 PM.
#6
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
FWIW - I asked about this before, perhaps you can find my thread. Lotec posted a picture of how to modify the stock pulloff style to get it down to 3/4 sec. You basically drill a large hole (3/16") through the casing above the orifice, then drill the orifice, say .023" or so, then plug the gaping wound of a hole in there.
Then, as mentioned, play with the AV tension. Unspoken but necessary info - you want the AV to open with between 1/2 - 1 turn of tension, the variability is due to cubic inch differences below the carb, and age of that spring. If you are going outside of that to get best performance, swap rods and hangers. Good luck!
Then, as mentioned, play with the AV tension. Unspoken but necessary info - you want the AV to open with between 1/2 - 1 turn of tension, the variability is due to cubic inch differences below the carb, and age of that spring. If you are going outside of that to get best performance, swap rods and hangers. Good luck!
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