305 running bad, carb questions...... need help
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From: Houston TX!!!!!
Car: 99 Mystic Green Trans am
Engine: LS1: Heads, MS4 cam, bolt'ons
Transmission: Fully built T-56 w/Spec3 & Pro 5.0
Axle/Gears: 3.23
305 running bad, carb questions...... need help
Just a quick question, I thought that the fuel from the primarys/secondarys was supposed to come out in a spray not droplets or a thick stream. If so what would cause such a think to happen. edelbrock 1405 carb, I have a think stream at idle and thick droplets at higher RPMs. The car's RPMs at idle go up and down slightly and when I'm going and disengage the clutch it stalls out. Also it surges or maybe bogs when crusing. I rebuilt the carb last month and I have the blue metering springs(lightest) in it right now because of the 268 comp cam low vacuum at idle. Think their too light?
Think I still need to mess with the idle screws and timing? Or is it something else.
A MAN LOOKING FOR A SOLUTION HERE
Thanks, JR
Think I still need to mess with the idle screws and timing? Or is it something else.
A MAN LOOKING FOR A SOLUTION HERE

Thanks, JR
Last edited by HuggerI-ROC; Mar 6, 2007 at 01:49 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Houston TX!!!!!
Car: 99 Mystic Green Trans am
Engine: LS1: Heads, MS4 cam, bolt'ons
Transmission: Fully built T-56 w/Spec3 & Pro 5.0
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I have been back and check the float levels already and what am I really looking for on the needles and seats? damage? bacause they look really good almost new.
Again is the carb supposed to be dripping or am I right and it should be spraying the fuel?
JR
Again is the carb supposed to be dripping or am I right and it should be spraying the fuel?
JR
Last edited by HuggerI-ROC; Mar 6, 2007 at 01:28 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Houston TX!!!!!
Car: 99 Mystic Green Trans am
Engine: LS1: Heads, MS4 cam, bolt'ons
Transmission: Fully built T-56 w/Spec3 & Pro 5.0
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Ok so I pulled the top of the carb and checked the floats for 7/16" space, they were
and checked the spring seat, rods, jets, it all looks good and shiney.
I'm still getting a stream of fuel pooring from the primarys and it got worse overnight because now she won't run at all unless I have some gas applied.
No fuel runs out after shut off.
I tried all the metering spring I have: blue, green, orange, pink, and they all
do nothing to change the stream of fuel or how the car runs.
can the idle mixture screws get stuck closed?
Any help????
JR
and checked the spring seat, rods, jets, it all looks good and shiney.
I'm still getting a stream of fuel pooring from the primarys and it got worse overnight because now she won't run at all unless I have some gas applied.
No fuel runs out after shut off.
I tried all the metering spring I have: blue, green, orange, pink, and they all
do nothing to change the stream of fuel or how the car runs.
can the idle mixture screws get stuck closed?
Any help????
JR
Last edited by HuggerI-ROC; Mar 6, 2007 at 06:40 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Houston TX!!!!!
Car: 99 Mystic Green Trans am
Engine: LS1: Heads, MS4 cam, bolt'ons
Transmission: Fully built T-56 w/Spec3 & Pro 5.0
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I'm using a stock mechaical fuel pump.
I have cleaned the damn thing 2 times and with an air hose too.
the floats move up and down fine and have no fuel in them from a leak
and the valves move up and down with the floats fine also.
I havn't pulled the idle mixture screws to clean the circuits could it cause this.
I was thinking if they were cloged close then the metering rods would be stuck in power mode right? and then there is not enough vacuum to make the fuel turn into spray.... maybe?
JR
I have cleaned the damn thing 2 times and with an air hose too.
the floats move up and down fine and have no fuel in them from a leak
and the valves move up and down with the floats fine also.
I havn't pulled the idle mixture screws to clean the circuits could it cause this.
I was thinking if they were cloged close then the metering rods would be stuck in power mode right? and then there is not enough vacuum to make the fuel turn into spray.... maybe?
JR
Last edited by HuggerI-ROC; Mar 6, 2007 at 07:14 PM.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
At idle with the choke open there shouldn't be any discharge at all through the mains, the only source of fuel should be the idle ports below the throttle.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Houston TX!!!!!
Car: 99 Mystic Green Trans am
Engine: LS1: Heads, MS4 cam, bolt'ons
Transmission: Fully built T-56 w/Spec3 & Pro 5.0
Axle/Gears: 3.23
so when you are getting fuel from the mains, at idle, what problem dose that imply.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
The fuel bowls are overflowing because the floats are sticking, float level is too high, needles and seats are dirty, or fuel pressure is too high.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Houston TX!!!!!
Car: 99 Mystic Green Trans am
Engine: LS1: Heads, MS4 cam, bolt'ons
Transmission: Fully built T-56 w/Spec3 & Pro 5.0
Axle/Gears: 3.23
WOOT FIXED IT!!!!
Well I went on edelbrock.com and watch the tech vids and like I was thinking the circuits for the idle mixture vacuum were clogged. He says in the vid ”Idling/Mixture Screws don't work” it is a common problem and to just take the idle screws out and blow them both out with an air hose. I thought it would be a good idea to take the metering rods and springs out for this although he didn't. First time I shot the air though them the passenger side held for just a sec before blowing air though the hole
I'm guessing it was pretty clogged. I put the rods and stock orange springs back in and she was running way better. still had a few drips coming from the left primary and I was have to keep the idle high so I went though the whole thing again, blowing the holes out a lot and put the blue springs in. She seemed to like it, got her running and revving without that much struggling from the engine and idling at about 1000RPMs witch I can live with.
now I just have to wait for my friends to get his but over here and fine tune her into a toasten tire machine.
I guess that even if everything you can see seems clean and in order it’s the stuff out of sight will kill you. good thing all I needed to fix it was an air hose too cause man...... so much money has already gone into her.
Thanks all and you to Apeiron for putting up with me
All post pics tomorrow of her in the sun
and vids of the 1/4 track next week maybe
Later, JR
I'm guessing it was pretty clogged. I put the rods and stock orange springs back in and she was running way better. still had a few drips coming from the left primary and I was have to keep the idle high so I went though the whole thing again, blowing the holes out a lot and put the blue springs in. She seemed to like it, got her running and revving without that much struggling from the engine and idling at about 1000RPMs witch I can live with.

now I just have to wait for my friends to get his but over here and fine tune her into a toasten tire machine.

I guess that even if everything you can see seems clean and in order it’s the stuff out of sight will kill you. good thing all I needed to fix it was an air hose too cause man...... so much money has already gone into her.
Thanks all and you to Apeiron for putting up with me

All post pics tomorrow of her in the sun
and vids of the 1/4 track next week maybe

Later, JR
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Sounds like maybe the air bleeds were clogged, then. You can use the little plastic straw on a spray can of carb cleaner to flush out clogged passages, too.
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