Is there any way to tell how big my carb is? It was on the car when I got it. The only numbers that I can see on it are 8667. My car keeps running rich, bad and I have to take it through emissions.

 

Are there any numbers stamped on the front of the carb just above the manifold on the passenger side? Something like 1406, or 1411?

 

Good call, there is 1405 and 1330. I didn't even see those. I had to look hard to see them.

 

A 1405 is a 600 CFM carb. Out of the box it comes with a manual choke, and a slightly richer "performance" tune.

 

1405 is a manual choke 500cfm carb with 'performance' calibration.

That is why its running fat on you. Pick up a calibration kit and lean it out

 

Can I pick up a calibration kit at Autozone, or do I need to order it online? This is why I don't deal with carbs to much. Fuel injection is easier to me.

 

You might be able to find it in a local shop. Probably best to try a more performance-oriented store for the best chance of finding one. Failing that, you can order one online from Summit or whoever. Check Edelbrock's website for the online manual for your carb.

Is your choke cable connected, and do you have the correct non-computer distributor?

 

No, my choke isn't connected right now. To warm for it, and it wasn't connected when I got it. I have an MSD distributor, so I don't know if it's computer controlled. I assum it's not since there are no wires or plugs going to it.

 

The choke is open though? Does your distributor have a cone-shaped metal vacuum advance can on the side of it below the cap? Just checking some of the easy things.

 

Yeah, the choke is open. No, there is no vacuum advance on the distributor.

 

Well, I ordered my new jets and metering rods for my carb today. They are supposed to be here tomorrow at 10.a.m. The whole set for my carb was 54.00. I just ordered the smallest jet and metering rod for my carb which was an .089. According to the Edelbrock website, the stock is .100, so I should see a decent change. The guys at Checkers are beginning to know me. They said that if they were to small to bring them back for a bigger size, but I think it will be all right. Right now, it runs REAL rich.

 

Well, you might end up going way lean that way. If you were going to lean it right out though, you'd want the smallest jet and the largest rod.

No signs of flooding from your carb? No fuel dripping from the boosters, or anything like that?

 

Not really flooding, just bogs when I get on it then goes. It's not dripping, out of anywhere, but you can see it fume out of the exhaust and smell it real good. I am pretty sure I am killing all the bugs around my floodlights. So I guess there is one advantage.

 

Bump

 

If you have a bog when you stomp the pedal it may also be the pump shot. Which is an easy fix by removing the little clip and moving the rod to another hole...

 

carb may just be out of adjustment also. grab a vacuum guage, hook it up to the port on the front drivers side of the carb, near the very bottom close to the intake. warm the car, set the idle where you'd want it. 2 screws on the front of the carb can really control how the car runs. they face forward and up. make small adjustments of these screws to obtain the highest vacuum reading on the vacuum guage. the idea is to have the screws turned IN as much as possable without loosing vacuum. might save you from removing the carb and changing things around, but maybe not.

 

What you really should be doing is reading the Edelbrock manual, which spells out step-by-step how to tune all the functions of the carb.

 

I read the manual on tuning. I couldn't tune it to not blow fuel fog out of the exhaust which is why I turned to the jets. I have changed them out with the new metering rods and it runs like a top now. I have to re do the vacuum gauge again, but there is no more fog now. Everything worked perfectly and fit great. The manual was helpful as far as how to change them.