It's amazing what a night at the track and a morning fo trying out things will do! Last night i took my veh. to a locla 1/8 mile track for my virgin drag racing experience, what a blast. I had a buddy of mine do most of the driving as i'm a newb to this. I can say that it sure helped to find problems and solutions to my bog/stutter i have with my 1806 carb. He said that at times while in 2 or 3rd gear the car stumbled and felt like it was accelerating in conjunction with the fuel pump sending fuel into the carb. Well today i went to the boards and got info on how to tune/adjust my carb and i found a very helpful article at http://www.mustangandfords.com/techa...ing/index.html dont flame me it was just for info . Ifound that when i took the air horn off my floats were waaaay off I'm talking 1 1/2" on the drop and under 5/16 for the rest . so i adjusted as necessary. Also i took advamtage of the situaton and replaced my primary jets and rods to the 1405 spec as that seems to be a good baseline. I put it back together and used the pink springs for the rods. I' ll have to go to the track again to see how much it helped but just on the street it seems much better.

 

Step 1 in carburetor tuning: Get the ignition right.

Step 2 in carburetor tuning: Get the basic adjustments right.

#1 requirement when getting a carb for a car with a T5 (or most any manual transmission): Stay away from Edelbrocks.

 

i had no problems with my quadra jet from factory on my car and it has always been manual i only really changed the carb/ ignition setup cause my computer burnt up and fried part of the harness. I'm really happy with the setup and am glad i did swap as i find it to be much easier for me to work with and adjust.I guess if yo don't fell comfortable with a carb find the one you comfortable with an use it. Know it's limitations and deal with them.

 

Why do you say that? What info do you have that can prove this statement?? I am not responding in anger, but curiousity, because I have an Edelbrock 750 CFM on my 500 HP 383 stroker and I am using the World Class T5 and so far I haven't had any problems. What experiences did you have that biased your opinion this way. The only things that I have heard was to try to stay away from vacuum secondaries when using a 5 speed.

 

Demand based secondaries (q-jet, Performer series, Holley/Demon vacuum secondary) are either slower to open after a shift (q-jet, Performer), or slow to close during a shift (VS). Unless you are power shifting and keep the throttle wide open, you will have a response delay from the secondaries. Power shifting is the quick way to an untimely death for a T5.

Of the two, VS is worse because it will allow the engine to free rev (must rev limit). Q-jet and Performer just leave a little power on the table.

And I'll admit that I simply don't have any love lost for the Performer carbs. It's so easy to do much better than them regardless of the set-up. They are the cheapest carbs out there - that's the only thing they have going for them.

 

Interesting....

Never have I power shifted my T5 YET!!! I know that it will break if I do. As I stated earlier, I have the 1407 750 CFM manual choke mechanical secondary Edelbrock carb and for what it is worth, does decent. I honestly believe, through doing research and talking to other people who know their stuff, that my 500HP engine is actually only getting probably around 450FWHP due to the Edelbrock carb being on it. A switch to the Holley 750 DP should yield full engine power potential. heck, even AFR used that carb as part of thier engine combo(which I emulated). What I am thinking is for street driving purposes, have the Eddy tuned for decent manners. Then get my Holley for track time and run it. Unless the Holley can be tuned for decent idle quality, smooth part throttle transitions, and full WOT engine power...

 

For the record, Performers aren't mechanical secondary. The throttle blade is opened mechanically, but the air flow is controlled by the air valve above the throttle blades.

Holley's can be tuned for good street manners. They aren't bad out of the box, but if you have wideband capability, with billet metering blocks and replaceable restrictors, and a main body with replaceable air bleeds, you can really dial them in.

 

As an update i forgot to mention the when i removed the air horn off the carb i noticed there was only about 1/4' of fuel covering the jets so i must assummed i must have been starving it as that doesn't seem to me to be enough fuel to adequately feed the jets. I am in the process of plumbing in a Holley Blue pump (12-802-1) and regulator. My mechanical pump i'm really unhappy with as my fuel gauge jumps alot between say 2 and 6 or 4 and 8 psi. I'd be much happier to see a constant pressure and know that it's always there. My idea is to run each side of the carb from one of the regulator outlets (2 outlets on the regulator). I'm going to reuse my 3/8 fuel supply hard lines.