I am removing my tpi from my 91 camaro. I have sold the complete
setup. I will be replacing it with a 355 carbed motor. What all do I need
to remove for the Buyer?? I was thinking just the computer and wire harness.
He plans on transplanting it into a pickup 4X4.

I will have a million questions for my swap, so stay tuned

Am I missing anything?? THANKS ALL

 

I just did this on my '86 Trans Am...

Intake (Plenum, runners, etc..)
Distributor
Air intake stuff
Computer
Wiring (when you unplug it from the computer, just follow it around the engine bay)
Fuel Pump (good luck)

That's basically it. I'm sure someone else will chime in with any other items. Have fun!

 

Leave all of the sensors attached to the harness. Main one not on the TPI itself is the knock sensor (down by the starter).

 

Thanks

I just got a good deal on a 454 (stock) with oval port heads.
I am going to check into the swap before I purchase the 355.
I'll do a search here.
I will post some pic's as soon as i figure out how to..

 

I just removed a tpi setup on my 91 z28 parts car, the harness went all the way to the fuse box, it also had the wiring for the starter combined with the harness also. I'm not sure what you will have to seperate out of the harness, but good luck on your swap.

 

It's probably different on the newer 3rd gens because the one in my '86 didn't go to the fuse box or the starter. There was 2 different harnesses kind of like a 5.0 Mustang.

The computer/injector harness and the main body/power harness. Thanks for chiming in lind90 and shedding some light!

 

Thanks guys! I still have not done anything yet. I think the BB
may be a little more complicated then I want. The 355 is the way
I will go. I will keep you updated as I go. I have not had time to
do much lately due to work.

 

I still have not started on the car yet, but was wondering what I am
suppose to do with the electric fuel pump in the tank?? Do I go
and pull it out the tank or keep it in?? Whats the best thing to do??

 

When I pulled my TPI harness, my stock in-tank pump stopped working. I was told to find the wire and hook it up to the ignition and run a Mallory #4309 return style regulator.

What I am doing is pulling the stock sending unit/in-tank pump (pain in the ***!) and modifying it so it's just a pick-up tube/sending unit. I will then be using an external pump. My philosophy behind that is, why leave the 22 year old pump in there because it is bound to go bad eventually, might as well get rid of it now instead of later.

 

THANKS MAN

I was doing well with time on my hands, and now that I am ready, I have to work almost every FREAKIN day

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/carbswap

 

OK guys. I really need your help now!! I've started and can't turn back.
this is what I started with with, and later I'll show what I'm gonna finish with






Now If I pull the FI stuff, am I gonna have to do some serious rewiring??
Or is this gonna be easy?? I started to pull the computer and and wiring and got really fraked out about it. I know I can't turn back now. So, do any of the computer wiring go to my starter or any major place?? fuel pump? Any one know for sure?? I plan to do this stuff Christmas day, and try to get it running again by thursday. Thanks All

 

And notice the smaller group of wires going into the foam area.
There is a connector there, do I follow it all into the dash and remove
it from there?? or just the connector?? Should I just call speartech and find out?? The guy backed out on buying my HSR so I'm gonna keep it and put it into something else, unless some one here wants to buy it cheap.

 

ANYONE

 

Has anyone used the MrGasket fuel regulator ??

 

I finished the car (intake swap) It runs great. I like it better then the HSR.
I am going to figure the wheel combo I want now. I will also finish the parts collecting for my real motor build up. I have sold alot of parts so far to help out, so it should be soon. THANKS EVERYONE.

 

Im kinda lost..Iv been reading on the carb swap and I dont understand the wireing harness part. What about my ignition, all my gauges dont they all run through the ECM? And what wires do I pull out after takin the ECM out? Thanks A lot..

 

The ignition and gages don't go to the engine through the ECM.

Pull the wires that are part of the ECM harness - you can do that without cutting any wires.

 

I left the harness in. I ended up not getting what I wanted for my HSR. The swap is done. I'm not putting it back in. If anyone wants it, let me know!

 

so basically, the ecm is not connected to anything vital to make a carbed engine run? I'm basically doing the same thing, only I want to remove any wires that will be useless to me.

 

HEY Snowflake, how much for the hsr ? Also when going to carb, what do you do about accel cable, and overdrive for tranny. And also what about a lock-up converter ?

 

Covered extensively and often. Try

 

I did not even think about the converter.. The trans does seem to be working in proper order. As for the cable bracket, I used a bracket off a
79 vette and modified it. As for the HSR, would that be with or without fuel rails, injectors, TB?? Let me know.

 

There's a couple of kits on the market to address the TCC in the transmission. In a nutshell, they all pretty much work like this: Rewire the valve body of the transmission so the 4th gear switch is inline with the TCC solenoid and out the harness connector. In series with that wire, connect the brake pedal switch and a MAP sensor/vac switch and on to a hot in run power source. End result, the transmission's clutch will apply when all the conditions are met

1.) transmission is in 4th gear (4th gear switch on VB closed)
2.) brake pedal is not applied (switch on pedal is closed)
3.) engine is producing cruise vacuum (MAP sensor/Vac switch closed)
4.) ignition is on (power from the hot-in-run circuit)

The transmission will work all functions with no power to it at all...except for the TCC. End result will be that it runs hotter at cruise rpm because of not having TCC lock up the converter for you.

The cheapest kit of all is using an adjustable vac switch from an industrial supply house (I got mine from PnueAir in Anahiem, CA for $35 ) The rest of the parts needed were already part of the car.

 

cam we see pics of the finished project