so i have a 87 ta auto, got it not running, fixxed that (disty in backwards and firing order all shot) so got it running, wasnt runnin too great cause of vac leaks, fixed that idles nice now and i can get it to rev without spuddering, however it revs only to like 2500 maybe 3k, so i tried to drive it for the first time and i mean it moves but it dosent respond to me hittin the gas it revs, but not reving like the trans is slipping. so i dont really know what the deal is. could it be a converter issue? could it e a carb issue? could it be a trans issue? its not that easy to explain it so i know for anyone reading this it might not be too easy to understand so i wish there was someone on this forum that lived near me and i live in the silver spring/ dc area.

 

Did you check your initial timing with the computer control connection disconnected? It's a multi-wire flat black connector sticking out the back of the distributor on top of the tranny bellhousing on those older cc-QJet engines. Sounds like the initial is way low, only running becuase of the added advance the ECM is kickin in. That'll give you a rather "flat" feeling from the engine, especially in the upper RPMs.

That's just one amongst about a million other things it can be, including a clogged catalytic converter strangling the life out of the engine as RPMs rise.

 

ill check out that first suggestion you gave, just as a heads up its running long tube headman headers (i didnt install them it came that way) with no exhaust. i did have to clean up some wireing so let me check that timing thing out, ill pull out the timing light and see what iv got.

 

'87 should be the small cap distributor with the single EST wire to disconnect.

Is the SES light coming on?

 

so i have no idea what u mean by single wire est, however i do have small cap disty with external coil, and yes the SES is on, i didtn bother to check it because of how much stuff retarded PO removed from it (ps pump, smog pump, no o2 sensor,) so i just figured the SES was for the o2 and smog pump. so how do i check it without buyin a code scanner

 

with a paper clip, I could try to explain it but I'll just confuse the hell out of you, just do a search for the paper clip method.

 

If the O2 sensor and other stuff necessary to the proper operation of the computer command control carburetor has been removed, you're in for all kinds of driveability issues. The ECM may still be providing some timing advance and may still be trimming the fuel mixture somewhat based on last known good data but it's not going to work as it should.

Does the carb click when the key is turned to 'run'? This would indicate that the mixture control solenoid is still working and receiving a signal from the ECM. Repairs may be as simple as installing a new bung for O2.

 

you know i really dont hear a click from the carb. also as for the paper clip method, well i have a gm code key and a few paper clips but it didnt work for me, i dont know if its cause my car has a 12pin DTC connector but only has 5 pins in it (iv seen others at the junk yard the same way) or what, but jumpin 5 and 6 did nothing for me, and there is no 12 to jump 6 and 12 cause the only pins that are there in the connector are 1,3,4,5,6.. so ill have my lady to turn the key while im under the hood listening for the click. i do know that the black plunger kicks out when u turn the key on but let me go and check and get back with you guys with an answer in a few moments.

 

Getting the error codes:

https://www.thirdgen.org/service-eng...ht-error-codes

 

ok so no click from the carb, there is a click from the driver side fireall, but nothing from the carb, like i mentioned the plunger thing that is on the driver side of the carb and it jumps out to the throttle, that works, so i unplugged it to see if i could hear that click yall mentioned still no clicked so i hooked it back up. so an ideas as to whats up?

 

Sounds like you've got some problems to work through.

EST wire: https://www.thirdgen.org/good-timing-reading (first question).

 

Basics first: Does the carb have a two-wire connector on top, passenger side front AND a three-wire connector front, drivers side?

The plunger you're referring to, is it a solenoid that bumps up the idle speed slightly? One-wire connector?

 

yes there is a 2 wire connector (blue) at the top passenger side of the carb more on the front side, and yes there is a 3 wire connector on the front of the carb(white) and yes the solenoid is a one wire connector. and that brown black wire im gonna have to look for because i dont have a blower motor, heater core or any of that good stuff the car came from a retard that thought puttin a holley carb and some headers and removing the fun stuff like ps, and heat made it a race car.

 

after reading another members post i realized that i forgot that i was told that the4bbl cars had an intank pump along with the mechanical pump, my car has a holley blue pump thats on a toggle switch so when i turn the key on i dont hear anything on in the tank, maybe i should checkthat out.

 

Not all of the carb'd cars had the in-tank electric. In fact, few did, the L69's and '87 model year were the only ones that did.

If people complained about vapor lock, apparently there was a kit the dealer could install that supposedly included an in-tank electric pump.

 

my ta is an 87 as far as L69 im not sure, its factory 4bbl carbed 305 with auto trans.
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when i look up the fuel pump it shows it as having both an intank and mechanical pump, ill just check fuel pressure tomorrow and make adjustments if needed from my adjustable regulator.

 

In '87 the only carb'd engine available was the low-po LG4. It had both the in-tank electric and engine-mounted mechanical pumps.

 

thanx five7. im gonna check out my fuel pressure and see whats up, and i guess ill have to jump the intank pump and see if it works or not. also reading other folks threads i might have to check out another ECU jus cause, my car seems to be stuck in a serious limp mode and so far the best ideas i have now would be that my intank pump isnt working or there is some sort of a ecu issue.