I've got everything disconnected from the Quadrajet except now I"m stumped at the fuel line at the filter. How do I disconnect this without pinching the fuel line?

 

Hold the nut that the line screws into while you loosen the 5/8" nut. 1" open end wrench.

 

The 5/8" nut is what is making the fuel line turn and pinch. I tried holding the 5/8" and turning the 1" and vice versa but it seems that turning one left is making the other tighter and impossible to remove from the carb.

 

Soak and let it sit with PB Blast?

 

You have to hold the 1" nut absolutely still while turning the 5/8" nut.

 

Yep, all of the above.

Gotta hold the big 1" fuel filter retaining nut still while loosening, but the fuel line with still try to hold onto the smaller nut and turn with it sometimes. PB Blaster and an overnight soak works wonders. Also, try TIGHTENING that nut a little before you attempt to back it off. Often helps make it "let go". That's an OLD OLD mechanic's trick for stuff that's frozen/rusted together and it works on a lot of things.

 

The 5/8" inch nut is connected to the fuel line though.

 

:bump:

 

It's not connected to it, it rotates around it. You'll see when you get it apart.

 

well, hopefully you got your fuel line off by now. if it is still giving you a hard time, do what I do when I give up.... CUT IT! LOL. cut your fuel line somewhere in the middle with a pipe cutter (so you don't drop any shavings down the line with a saw) and then when it's time to put it back together, slide a 3" piece of fuel line on at the splice. it'll cost you maybe $.75 for the line and maybe $7 for the cutter (should have one though, everyone needs a pipe cutter in their house). but on the other side of things, i just hope you got it off the right way.... I hate steel fuel lines, every can I've ever had the steel lines come off as soon as I get home (if not in the parking lot of the parts store) and i change them out for this exact purpose!

Good Luck

 

I have done the above, as well as with trani lines! Don't forget compression fittings.....

 

I know lots of people use hose on the pressure side of the fuel pump, but I would never do that on my own vehicle. If a fire occurs that hose will quickly burn through, and before the engine quits running, the pump will spray gasoline everywhere.
There are types of hose that are much more fire resistant, and can hold a lot more pressure, that steel line, though, just not the cheap 3/8" hose everyone seems to like so much.
Just try it exactly as Damon said, it should all work out fine.
The only time I'd do anything like Chris...84 said is if I didn't have a functioning fuel line, and I needed to go get steel line.
So, don't cut your fuel line. It's what is already there, and it's better that any cheap hose.

 

I PB Blasted it and it's still stuck. I guess it isn't connected but it sure seems like it at this rate. I don't want to cut anything because I've got fuel that spilled and sparks could be bad

I just bought a 1" wrench so hopefully that might help over the plyers I was using to grip the 1" bolt.

 

100% agree on the cheapo fuel line quote thing... don't use that, same here, i use that cheapo stuff on mechanical fuel pumps only to get me to the parts store and back... there is a higher dollar fuel line that i use, no clue what its called or who makes it, my hookup at orielly's knows what i want when i ask for it, i just pay for it, its still a rubber line laced with high pressure steel braid, and then wrapped in rubber again... stuff works great! but yet that cheapo stuff will get you by if needed...

 

I did it, I got it disconnected.......only one problem, I didn't plan on gas continuously coming out of the fuel line and not stopping. I had no idea how to plug it as nothing I tried worked and I'm not ready to put the other carb on yet so I just reconnected everything to the old carb for the time being.

Anything I can do to clean the gas that leaked all over the intake and engine tonight before starting it up after the carb install? I just don't want a fire risk.

 

Leave the hood open. Gas evaporates rather quickly unless the temp is around freezing temps anyhow. Should be fine in about 15 or so.

 

Will be freezing tommorow. What if I leave the hood shut but do nothing till next weekend like I planned?

I'm confused on which is the cheepo line? The original?

 

Should be ok. I think they were referring to the rubber fuel hose as the cheap-o line. When I had to do my patch I used fuel hose rated for fuel injection (something like 200psi). Just for the extra comfort you know?

 

That makes sense. Somebody did use rubber hosing for the other two lines at the fuell line when they had to relocate it I believe due to the engine swap, I just hope those lines are fine.


What is the best way to plug the line when I have to keep it disconnected for a while when I get a new intake manifold?

 

When I disconnected mine, gravity was sufficient. I just kept the fuel line outlet above where it would normally sit if connected. If you have the stock mechanical fuel pump there will be no pressure in the line with the car off except for residual. If you have an aftermarket electric fuel pump make sure there is no power going to it. If you still find it necessary to "plug" the hose I would suggest shoving a shop rag or something similar into the end. Or stick duct tape over the end. Just make sure no debris find their way into the fuel line either way. Bad news if something found it's way into the carb.

 

The gas pouring out that you were referring to was most likely coming out of the carb, not the fuel line. It has to go somewhere...

Any cheap rubber lines on the vacuum side of the fuel pump are fine, if those are the ones you are talking about, it was like that originally.

 

Is the car sitting level? Is the gas tank full?

Often this is caused by pressure on the tank. Loosen the gas cap - if you get a "whoosh", the pressure should be relieved and you won't have the problem anymore.

A piece of 3/8" rubber hose with a bolt clamped in one end stuck over the fuel line after removing it from the carb is an effective way of blocking it off. Have it ready to go next time you go to remove the line.

 

Ah! No, the car isn't level and the gas tank is about 3/4 full. It's in my backyard and the front is lower than the back so that might be it?


The car was originally a 2.8 V6 so I thought that meant it had an electric pump originally (might be wrong though).

 

It probably did or maybe does have the in-tank electric. But, that won't stop it from siphoning out, especially if the rear of the car is higher than the front.

 

I was refering to metal lines, that is why I said "don't forget the compression fittings" Good luck with the carb!!

 

I did both. the rubber hose with two clamps and a bolt at the end wasn't effective. It just slowed the leak for some reason but I did get the new carb on but still have a leak. This compression fitting is driving me crazy. I can't tighten it anymore because now it's stripping. There's now way to replace just the bolt on the fitting is there or do I have to replace the whole line?

Is the best thing to do just try taping the thread and hoping that stops the leak?

Also, seems the compression fitting in the back of the carb wont fit. I didn't think the the two quadrajets would take different sizes

 

The fitting on the backs of the qjets should be the same, but there are two fittings, on inside the other. make sure you took both of the off of your old qjet, and that there aren't any on your new qjet already.

About the fuel line, does it leak only when the car is running, or always?

 

Always. It's always dripping and was worse when I cranked the car over but it wouldn't start (I'm guessing cuz I don't have everything hooked up to the carb yet).

 

I got it hooked up and started with a waaaay advanced timing. Thank you guys for all your help!

Gregsz-28, I had left the second fitting in the old quadrajet.

I haven't taken the car out yet because I still have the gas leak but it runs so much better with this new quadrajet!

My secondaries weren't working/opening at all on the old quadrajet so I have no idea how little horespower I was actually running.

 

Are you sure the secondaries weren't opening before? With air valve secondaries, you usually won't see them open up much if you just rev it up, when the engine isn't under load.

 

Almost possitive. I should see a difference when I take it for a spin around the block when I get home from work if they weren't.

 

Neither fitting should require tape or any other sealant to prevent leaks. The one inch fitting into the carb is sealed with a round gasket that fits into the stepped end at the threads. I've seen some that were a clear plastic and some that were white. You may have to purchase a new one. The smaller fitting that screws into the larger one is a pressure fitting that forces the flare on the end of the metal line against a similarly beveled surface inside the one inch fitting.

Neither should require much torque to seal effectively. Over torquing can damage the gasket or strip threads and lead to leaks.

 

I don't believe that I saw a gasket where the 1" fitting goes in. I did replace the fuel filter and thought I would have seen something like that.
My leak appears to be coming from the compression fitting though. It's flowing out where that fitting goes in the 1" fitting and it's a pretty bad and steady leak when I start it. I'm lost here, it didn't leak on the original carb, I don't know why it would leak out of that now?

 

Check both mating surfaces to be sure they are clean and free of burrs/scratches. Make sure the nut is threaded properly and turning far enough to place pressure against both surfaces but do not overtighten.

Gasket is the clear, plastic ring you see in the photo:

 

I don't think I had that gasket on so I did buy it today. I'm going to put that on and try adjusting the 5/8" nut again and if it doesn't work i guess I'll just replace the fuel line?

 

I replaced the gasket and got to fuel line to stop leaking as far as it looks but now my car won't start, just cranks till the battery dies. I use starting fluid and it sorta starts and then I get smoke out of the heat riser and a location I can't pinpoint (somewhere on the drivers side also). I put more gas in since my gauge isn't accurate and still the same thing, crank crank crank....

One thing I did notice that was different between this and the last quadrajet is that the old one would click before fully turning the key and this one doesn't

 

If this particular carb was running fine before, check your eng controls fuse. The Mixture Control solenoid in the carb is under the two wire connector on top/pass side. It should click with the key in 'Run' and continue to click for about a minute if the engine isn't started. It clicks up and down, varying the amount of time it spends in the down position, in order to meter fuel into the mixture on the primary side.

You've most likely shorted a lead somewhere while dickering around and blown the fuse under the dash panel. EGR lead, AIR pump lead, etc. shorted to ground will blow it.

If the fuse checks out OK, come back.

 

It should still run with that fuse blown.
Did the engine at least fire a few times, right after you started cranking?

 

She fires when I put starting fluid or gas in the carb then dies. The solonoid seems to be bad. When I plug the connector into the old carb or the third carb I have they both click. Would this cause a fuel delivery problem?

 

It would cause it to run rich but should still fire, although it would be prone to flooding. Flooding is discounted though if you put fuel in the carb and it starts. You've got two problems. Fuel delivery is your first one. Did you swap fuel filters by any chance?

 

I replaced the filter with a new one.

 

Pull out the new filter and remove the small one way check valve in it. It's a plastic ball and spring inside the rubber gasket on the end. Pull out the spring and ball, replace the gasket and try it.

I've seen these check valves cause enough restriction to starve the carb. (Maybe cause of a bad, or going bad, fuel pump). Anyway I've always removed them.

 

Damn your good! Got her to start after I did what you said to an old filter that was still in good condition. But, the carb started flooding bad. Guessing this is because of the solinoid?

 

With the solenoid not working the primary jets are unrestricted and it's going to be running extremely rich. You should be able to swap over a working MC from another carb into this one. Just be careful with the airhorn gasket.

 

What am I being careful of? Is the gasket sealed with sealant?

 

No, but it tends to stick and wants to pull apart. You might just want to buy a rebuild kit, as long as you have it apart.

 

Also, it may not necessarily be a bad solenoid. It may just be hung up. You can remove the IAB (after counting turns to seat so it can be re-installed at same height) and using a small screwdriver or other tool, place it in the bore and check that the primary rods are freely moving. They should click up and down with 1/8" of travel.

Either way though you'll still need to remove the airhorn. Just check the condition of the rods/springs/etc.