The HEI distributor is a fully self-contained ignition system. The module is mounted on the base plate. A magnetic pickup coil mounted around the shaft takes the place of the contact points. The coil is located inside the square cover on top of the cap.

To make the HEI run, all you need is a switched power supply to the B+ terminal. There is also a TACH terminal if you need a tach output.

Cheers!

 

great thread

 

finally got the primary things i need to do the swap, took a while, but i got an edelbrok performer carb 650cfm manual choke, vaccum secondaires, and an edelbrock performer intake dual plane not a high rise, and im going hei with it, as well as new cam, timing set, ported h.o. heads, and different valve springs. but what about the trans, will the t.c. still lock up leaving the computer, and anything on the speedo, does that still work?

 

the trans will not lockup any longer. i put a switch in the dash to control that.

 

and how is that switch wired?

 

Do you think it would be better to go with a tpi then to swap to a carb from my tbi

 

the top two wires on the aldl connector will need to be wired to a toggle switch. i turn on my switch when i get on the freeway.

 

if you have the time and skills to put in a tpi then it will allow you to keep stuff inspectabe and not worry about tuning a whole lot. i think you would need a different fuel pump since tbi is only 15 psi.
pull the tank and put in a new pump-aquire and install a tpi set up and harness-get a different pcm or have your written(if possible)-intake set up for a tpi set up-and i believe that there are heater lines for the tpi that go to the bottom of the radiator(you will have to reroute these somehow)-and then deal with the throttle linkage issues and possibly a different tv cable.
or do the carb swap.

 

where are the aldl wires located, heard of them many times, but never saw it.... and would u know the colors of the wires, we have the same cars.

 

I think i will just do what you did sounds much easier

 

it is the connector under the dash where you would plug a code reader to. there is a sticky in the tech articles about it. locate the plug and it is the top wire on both ends.

 

Thanks man! Best of luck on your as well. It looks great so far.

 

i tore into the swap on my car still like lots of tuning but did you everr get your speedo workin

 

just asking how much did all this run u and is it your d.d.

 

wow. lets see if i can remember.
140.00 intake
70.00 regulator
40.00 hose
40.00 fittings
120.00 carb-swap meet
35.00 trick kit-carb
20.00 throttle linkage bracket
25.00 misc throttle linkage stuff
80.00 dizzy
40.00 plug wires
10.00 antifreeze
20.00 gaskets
i would say that is the just of it. maybe a little more for little things. that roughly comes out to $640.00. so i would say $700.00 if all or most parts are new. now if you find goo deals on stuff it will be a little cheaper. not my daily driver for work. but i do try to drive it every day. been on several trips in it with no problems. i never lost the speedometer. but my ecm is still in the car. didnt want to mess with vats.

 

do you have any pics of what it used to look like ur motor that is befors all the mods, is a 305 or 350.. overall how much more hp did you get from what u spent...?

 

not sure how much hp i gained. but it runs way better. and it is now set up for the future which is going to be a 355 vortec engine.
before

after

 

what headers are you running? Looks great, good job!

 

hooker headers

 

got the regulator in to day and went for test drive my car runs about 45 now at high rpms my trans did good before the swap please help me

 

how did you mount and adjust the tv cable on the carb????>

 

Have you removed the ECM yet? If so does your speedo still work?

 

i left my ecm in. just removed the bulb for the engine light.

 

Was there at least a good seat of the pants improvement over the TBI? I'm going to start rebuilding the Edelbrock 1406 that I got from ebay. And hopefully I can get my rebuilt 350 and trans into the car right after Labor Day, assuming no problems.

I can use a 1-5.5psi Spectre regulator to drop the TBI pressure on my 91 right?

What is your ignition set at? Would like a general idea where to put it to start it.

Thanks

 

so u disconnected all the crap from under the hood, kept the ecm and vats, and all the gauges work and the speedo works, correct? and do you have a diagram of the hose routing for the heat and a/c for under the hood?

 

for me the way it was running with the tbi yes mine runs way better. as far as the hose routing the one heater hose that went to the back of the intake no goes to the front. other than that the rest are the same. i found a tee to go on the back for the brakes and the a/c. yes all i did was pull back and cut the wires in the engine bay and everything else works.

 

i didnt relize that it was a tv instead of a kickdown cable if i drove it probably a mile down the road and back do you think my trans is bad now it shifted through every gear

 

You ever tried upgrading your tbi sistem, before to retrograde?

 

i did the tbi mods. but didnt want to do anything with the computer. and like i said before my new engine will be carb so i have got it all done. now all i have to do is swap the engine and im done.

 

Right now I'm debating whether or not to do my carb swap with the 305 in the car or to do the swap on the rebuilt 350 that is on the engine stand waiting to go in. Either way I could at least get it running with carb.

 

i was having a few issues with mine. i thought that it was a step forward for me. especially since i have all of it completed when i do my swap. at least if you waited you could do a lot of wire removal then.

 

Now that the guy has finally dropped off the motor and trans I might consider putting everything on it before I put it in the car.

Anyone know if I can start the engine just long enough on the engine stand to be able to do the simple tuning? Stuff like timing and idle, get that done and I will have an easy time getting everything else done in time. I have only a week or so to get everything back together and completed since this is my DD. The engine is from a '89 G20 van that was TBI as well, so I'll still have to pull everything just like it was my motor.

BTW one92, what did you use for the throttle, TV, and cruise bracket? I got the one from Edelbrock(pn8031) and just wanted to be sure that it will work perfectly or if I'll have to do some modifying.

 

if it is a really good engine stand you can get away with running it. i think you will still have to reset it when it is in the car due to the tranny and all the belts and stuff loading on the engine. i used a spectre bracket which i had to brace but it is still flexing some. gonna save up and buy one of the summit brackets http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-210240/ since i believe that it will not flex. and i didnt use the cruise anymore. but mine isnt a daily driver. well at least not to work and back. i do get her out when i get home and go cruising.

 

Now that I have really looked at this motor in the light I'm doubting that this motor has been rebuilt as recent as the guy said it was. I will know for sure when I pull the intake manifold and look at the lifter valley.

 

man i hope it was rebuilt. you need to pull the oil pan and look at a bearing or two. i would pull the rear main and look at the wear on it.

 

I've never dealt with a one piece rear main so I'll probably leave that alone until I do the rebuild. I suppose I could pull the pan and a couple bearings. I just don't want to pull too much since I don't have the money for a gasket set right now and I already have the intake manifold gaskets. I only have a week to get everything done before I have to put it in the car and after that I will be deploying over to afghanistan sometime early next year. While I'm over there I'll save some money to put into this car, probably mostly the engine, just not sure what I'll do yet or when I'll do it.

 

i can understand not having the money. but this is your dd right. i would see if i could borrow the money for an oil pan gasket. last thing you need is this engine to go south.

 

I'm in the process of switching over to carb and I just bought that bracket. It's pretty nice and the Holley bracket for the 700R4 TV fits perfect. I'm trying to figure out what the hell to do for the throttle cable. This bracket bolts through the large hole in Holley carbs, but fits too loose to bolt the throttle cable to the same place. It's a pretty nice bracket though.

The matching fuel regulator bracket probably won't work for me. It doesn't clear things it's supposed to clear.

 

which bracket did you get? can you take a pic of it.

 

I'm not sure which bracket you're talking about, but here's all three. I got the one your link shows, but mine is red. You can see that the 700R4 bracket is underneath the throttle bracket towards the rear.




And I got the matching regulator bracket for the passenger side. Here you can see that the bracket interferes with the fuel lines. I could use fuel hose, but I like the look of braided hose and aluminum fittings. I plan on machining (sounds better than grind) the end of bracket so the straight fitting will fit. It also comes really close to the electric choke, but I think I have enough clearance so I don't have to worry abou shorting it out. I can't install the bracket with the front carb stud installed. It will get installed after the bracket is in place.

 

man those are nice. i think i will have to sneak one of those bracketss in next payday. yay i had a heck of a time with the linkage at the trottle. i believe that that i ended up with a piece of rubber in there and some pieces from a kit that i bought from the auto parts. i believe that it is a holley throttle kit. damn i like the way that bracket looks nice. i would still like to find something that fits in there well. wow just noticed that is a vortec intake.

 

Yes, it's a Vortec intake. In all honesty, I don't own a Camaro; I have a couple of trucks. I migrated over here from fullsizechevy.com because of the ECM tuning forum. Now that I have ditched the tuning, I'm sticking around for the carb threads.

Carb, TBI, TPI, it's all the same.

 

wow i used to be on fullsizechevy,performancetrucks,and even allens website as well. i was using 02denali back then.

 

bump for people with questions

 

Looks good!!

 

Do you have links for the other two brackets you have installed here? I saw the one for the throttle bracket from summit a couple of posts before this one.

Cam

 

Sure. Here is the small bracket that goes underneath the throttle bracket that holds the TV cable:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-119/

Here is the regulator bracket:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-210250R/

Here is the "Summit" throttle bracket:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-210240R/

 

Thank you sir. Do they come in any other colors, besides the silver and red? Mostly just curious about the colors...don't really have a preference. Also, what afpr are you using? I know that you said you were going to have to "modify" the regulator bracket some.

Cam

 

I think they might have blue also. I chose red because you can't get the TV cable adapter in any color except red. It is only available by Holley as opposed to the regulator bracket and throttle cable that you can get from Summit. After seeing the Summit stuff, I'm convinced both are manufactured by the same company, and the TV bracket fit (and matched) the Summit bracket perfectly.

I am using the Aeromotive 13301 bypass regulator instead of what everyone else seems to be using because I kept the intank pump...and I already had one. The only modification I had to do to the bracket was drill a couple of holes to mount the regulator and get longer screws to do it. I also had to modify the air cleaner by drilling a hole in it that the adjusting stud passes through. That took some time because if it would have been off even a little, I would have had to scrap the air cleaner. The hole is perfectly sized to the stud so nothing (debris) can get past it. I was initially going to put a grommet on it, but if it broke loose, the only place it was going was straight into the engine.

One other note about the way I did this is that the AN-6 hose can't make the corner into the carb. The only way around this was to cross the hoses and go to the other bowl (left side reg to right side carb). I'm not happy with the way this turned out, so I may eventually bend and flare some pipe.

 

hey buddy they do come in different colors. i am using a jegs throttle bracket and it is anodized black. and it was 69.00 plus the trans cable bracket was a little more. both were the same as the holley bracket. im using the barry grant afpr since it has a port for a pressure gauge.