tpi to carb...need feedback and help
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Joined: May 2007
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From: CT
Car: '88 Iroc-Z z28 Camaro
Engine: Carb 355
Transmission: t5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.11
tpi to carb...need feedback and help
Ok guys im sick and tired of my tune port setup acting up on me most of the time and I jus wanna be able to drive my car with it having no problems and me not having to worry all the time. So im thinking about going to carb. I've done a lot of research and im still confused about some things. I know what I need to get for this to work, my concern is how it all goes together. My plan is get to either an edelbrock performer intake of the victor jr intake followed by a nice holley 750 or 770 cfm carb, followed by that is going to be a HEI accel dizzy and then an adjustable 6-8 psi fuel pressure regulator. Now my main concerns are, how do I wire up my starter? will all of my gauges work after this? I noticed that there were two spots on the dizzy one of witch I know the module inside of it connects to but what bout the other (i think thats for the tach)? Is my mpg going to better? I've heard good things about carbs and im stoked to do this change. any help and feedback is welcomed and appreciated.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Not the Victor Jr. Too much intake for the typical street car, and since you asked about improved MPG, it would be a move in the wrong direction.
Don't do a Street Avenger. It's nothing but a gussied-up vacuum secondary Holley. Since you have a T5, you want a double pumper type carb.
The fuel pressure regulator needs to be of the return type. A simple $25 reg will burn out your in-tank electric fuel pump.
The typical coil-in-cap HEI vacuum/mechanical advance distributor needs a 12 volt switched wire connected to the "BATT" terminal, and the tach signal wire connected to the "TACH" terminal.
As long as you don't get stupid cutting wires and removing the computer, you won't have to do anything different with your starter. Your gauges go through a different harness than the computer, so again, if you don't get stupid, you don't have to do anything different for them.
Your MPG will go down. If you want the best possible fuel economy with a carb, you'll do a computer controlled q-jet - a lot of hassle to install in an originally EFI car, but possible. The next best is a non-computer controlled q-jet.
Sorry you've been mislead about carbs. The least expensive, most reliable system is almost always what your car came with. But, since you have a 383, that doesn't alter reality slightly.
Don't do a Street Avenger. It's nothing but a gussied-up vacuum secondary Holley. Since you have a T5, you want a double pumper type carb.
The fuel pressure regulator needs to be of the return type. A simple $25 reg will burn out your in-tank electric fuel pump.
The typical coil-in-cap HEI vacuum/mechanical advance distributor needs a 12 volt switched wire connected to the "BATT" terminal, and the tach signal wire connected to the "TACH" terminal.
As long as you don't get stupid cutting wires and removing the computer, you won't have to do anything different with your starter. Your gauges go through a different harness than the computer, so again, if you don't get stupid, you don't have to do anything different for them.
Your MPG will go down. If you want the best possible fuel economy with a carb, you'll do a computer controlled q-jet - a lot of hassle to install in an originally EFI car, but possible. The next best is a non-computer controlled q-jet.
Sorry you've been mislead about carbs. The least expensive, most reliable system is almost always what your car came with. But, since you have a 383, that doesn't alter reality slightly.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: CT
Car: '88 Iroc-Z z28 Camaro
Engine: Carb 355
Transmission: t5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: tpi to carb...need feedback and help
I have a painless wiring harness in it and tehe starter wires are with that so if i remove the harness from the ecm then im getting rid of that too. In your opinion, do you think its worth doing this change over? cause this is my daily driver and i travel a good 60 miles a day
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