essential vacuum lines
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 12
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1984 firebird
Engine: v8 5.0L 305
Transmission: 5 speed
essential vacuum lines
My car is a 1984 firebird with a 305. I'm planing on doing some bolt on stuff, carb, intake manifold, exhaust etc. I want to remove as much of the emissions components as possible, the car has ac, and i'd like to keep it, i want to change the intake on the car, but on my stock intake there are vacuum lines running in to it from the carb. Do i need these? Can i loop or plug them? Basically i want to know what i can remove from the car with out issues, and what i need to do to get the canister out of there. I also would like a solution to my brake vacuum canister. I guess i should make a post in brakes for that though.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Keep the canister.
A.I.R. and EGR can be eliminated without detrimental effects on operation.
A.I.R. and EGR can be eliminated without detrimental effects on operation.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: essential vacuum lines
Not sure if you are changing carbs, or keeping the factory carb. And I don't know about your emissions requirements and laws, but
If going aftermarket carb, you can eliminate the fuel canister - just remove it, and run the extra fuel line from it to under the car (in case there is ever a fuel leak, it won't spray into the hot engine bay).
You'll need to maintain vacuum for the brake booster - most carbs have a large vacuum port on the back of the carb for this.
Most intakes have a vacuum port on them in the back - this is where you'll plug in vacuum lines for the cruise control (if keeping it), the vaccum for the heater controls in the cabin.
The front of the carb will have ported and non-ported fittings on it - one goes to vacuum advance on the HEI distributor if you are using in stead of the CC Carb and dizzy, the other can be used for any other accessories if needed, or capped off.
There may be one more vac fitting on the front of the carb - a larger one - I have this one hooked into my PCV valve in the valve cover.
Not sure if that helps - not sure what carb you are going to use, or what intake, what distributor, etc. - I'm using an Edelbrock 1405 with a Performer RPM intake, no cruise control, no EGR, no AIR, and no heater diverter valve, so I have few vacuum lines - just brakes, TCC lockup, cabin heater controls, HEI advance, and PCV.
If going aftermarket carb, you can eliminate the fuel canister - just remove it, and run the extra fuel line from it to under the car (in case there is ever a fuel leak, it won't spray into the hot engine bay).
You'll need to maintain vacuum for the brake booster - most carbs have a large vacuum port on the back of the carb for this.
Most intakes have a vacuum port on them in the back - this is where you'll plug in vacuum lines for the cruise control (if keeping it), the vaccum for the heater controls in the cabin.
The front of the carb will have ported and non-ported fittings on it - one goes to vacuum advance on the HEI distributor if you are using in stead of the CC Carb and dizzy, the other can be used for any other accessories if needed, or capped off.
There may be one more vac fitting on the front of the carb - a larger one - I have this one hooked into my PCV valve in the valve cover.
Not sure if that helps - not sure what carb you are going to use, or what intake, what distributor, etc. - I'm using an Edelbrock 1405 with a Performer RPM intake, no cruise control, no EGR, no AIR, and no heater diverter valve, so I have few vacuum lines - just brakes, TCC lockup, cabin heater controls, HEI advance, and PCV.
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