Cg-OneSic89

To the OP,
I currently drive a 5 speed/Cammed 350 car with a Holley 670 truck avenger(got it for a rebuilt q jet). As Far as drivability goes, if i cruise, it does great, but just as five7kid was trying to explain, if i go WOT and bang shift the wee out of it, there is a second where the secondaries are still open right after i change gears, most of the time this is not a problem, but i have had it cause me to bog a bit from time to time. As far as looking at used carbs, i personally will buy a new carb before i buy an old one a rebuild it. Youll save maybe half of what a new HP carb cost, but will have none of the benefits. Compare a new 670 street avenger, or a new 4165, then debate on all the unknowns of the ebay carb. Only reason ive brought this up is ive gone the cheap route, and its been a bitch and a half at times. Rebuilt a double pumper to later find out whoever cut off the choke tower got aluminum flakes inside the carb (dont ask me how) and ruined one of the metering blocks.
Just my opinion.

Z2887

Couple of questions....

This is whats confusing me about it. With a vacuum secondary You get this flare(Secondaries stay open after you shift.) I could never tell on mine, but on yours you say you can tell if you speed shift(bang shift the wee out of it)

1. OK, if you speed shift a double pumper they stay open as well. So whats the difference ?

2. Maybe on mine, since I had much bigger heads, cam,ect. Them being opened didnt hurt it as much. Because it could actually use that extra air ?

3. Also why do the factory Holleys on the Fords not have this problem ? Being a Ford has nothing to do with it. 95% of the time people do use too big of a carb. Maybe this is only a problem if your carbs too big to begin with ?

Cg-OneSic89

When you shift, theres a second when your foot isnt mashing the gas, a double pumper will close the secondaries as soon as you let off enough, a vacuum secondary will not, it takes a moment for them to close. My bog could be caused by a number of things working together, but i didnt have the bog when i did a a few test runs with my friends Holley HP with mechanical secondaries. Its only something i have noticed with my truck avenger, but like i said its nots everytime, typically happens when im at the track.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The point is you shouldn't speed shift a T5. I know the OP indicated he wasn't going to do that, but for everyone else reading this thread with its very generally-worded subject line, you 1) shouldn't speed shift a T5; and 2) if you have a T5, you should use a mechanical secondary carb just in case you get a hair someday and decide to do some spirited driving.

Z2887

Ok, so its not necessarily the best choice for a manual trans. Just best if you have a Chevy T-5 ? Im not saying thats wrong. Im just trying to make sense of all this. Like most others probably are. lol I always let off the gas when shifting too. Even when racing. Maybe thats why I never noticed it.

Cg-OneSic89

five7kid, My intentions were not to confuse anyone, i run a tremec 3550. To the OP, its not because its a gm t5 that a mechanical secondary is the best, its because its a 5 speed in general. five7kid is saying use that "in case" you do some spirited driving as it will act much better then a vac secondary. Although i personally wouldnt beat on it with a t-5 since i grenaded one behind the H.O. 305 my car had origionally.

Z2887

Ok, thats what I thought. I still dont understand why its OK on a Mustang, and not on a Camaro. A engine is a engine, a carbs a carb, and vacuum is vacuum. No matter what brand the parts are. If it does it on one car, it should do it on all cars right ? I know if it was really a problem though Ford wouldnt have mass produced the combination. Especially as well as those cars ran. The '85 was one of the fastest 5.0 stangs. It had a factory 4180 Holley vaccuum secondary carb on it. That was my first "performance" car. Im NOT saying your wrong. I've read that several places. It just doesnt make sense why its OK for one and not the other. You understand what I mean ? Was there something different about those carbs ? If so, then get one from a junkyard and rebuild it. At 580 cfm's it would be about perfect for his 305.

89_RS

Not all cars are created equal. Ford may have been getting the T5 from another manufacturer than GM did. Ford may have had a different throttle setup than GM did. Ford may have had a special setup in the clutch that GM didn't. GM could have made an engine more powerful than the T5 was designed for. God could have blessed Ford with unnatural transmission life. God could have blessed GM with shear amounts of raw power. Maybe Jupiter was in the right spot on the right day when Ford put a VS carb together with the T5. Etc. Ect. Ect.

There are so many what ifs between a VS carb on a Ford and a VS carb on a GM that it would be illogical to assume that what works for one is going to work for the other.

Z2887

1." Ford may have been getting the T5 from another manufacturer than GM did."

This wouldnt matter if this is the rule for ANY manual transmission"


2."Ford may have had a different throttle setup than GM did."

That would be in the carb. Which was built by Holley


3."Ford may have had a special setup in the clutch that GM didn't."
See answer for #1

4. "GM could have made an engine more powerful than the T5 was designed for."
They did. Thats why you could only get an auto 5.7L. What does that have to do with it ?

5. "God could have blessed Ford with unnatural transmission life.
God could have blessed GM with shear amounts of raw power. Maybe Jupiter was in the right spot on the right day when Ford put a VS carb together with the T5. Etc. Ect. Ect.
lmao. Nothing to do with anything I asked......Funny though.


6. "There are so many what ifs between a VS carb on a Ford and a VS carb on a GM that it would be illogical to assume that what works for one is going to work for the other."

A VS carb works the same on both engines. Vacuum is vacuum. No matter what the source is. It has nothing to do with the engine itself. Unless the vacuum stops instantly on a Ford. When you let off the throttle.

89_RS

Borg Warner didn't build all of the T5's ever made. Borg Warner built and sold T5's until they sold their design to TREMEC. As far as I understand, you can't take a Ford T5 and mate it to a GM engine. And at that, I can just about guarantee that even while Borg Warner owned the design, they weren't manufacturing every transmission being supplied to OEM's. I'll bet they farmed alot of it out to suppliers for both GM and Ford.

As far as I know, Rochester was the major OEM carb for the Thirdgen from 82-88 for GM. I've found nothing on Holley being a supplier of OEM carbs for either Ford or GM.

As far as I know, you can't take a Ford clutch and use it in a GM drivetrain.

GM severely doubted that the T5 would hold up to a stock LO3, LG4, or LB9. And at that, they were doubtful that a 700R4 would hold up to either of those engines or the L98.

Anything can and will happen when human hands and heads are involved in making anything. And sometimes its just plain amazing what happens.

I know that vacuum works the same either way. What I'm getting at is that no one really knows all the ins and out of this type of setup on BOTH Fords and GMs. For all I know, Ford could have a valve that controls the amount of vacuum on the secondaires on the carb that is connected to the throttle cable and calibrated so that it opens the secondaries based on throttle position and not just pure vacuum. So if that vacuum suddenly decreases, the secondaries close in response to lower vacuum.

84 z28

If you dont know the ins and outs of Ford carbs why open your mouth and talk about something you dont know about ? His question is valid and until you are able to answer it without all your BS, I would quit talking.

89_RS

Wasn't saying I knew anything. In fact I know less than either you or him about carbs. But I do know enough to know that there are similarities between each manufacturer as well as differences. I was simply pointing out that just because they both look similar doesn't mean they are identical.

Cg-OneSic89

Guys, first of all read post 28 again please. That explains how the carb works. To be honest theres a million variables that can lead to one carb running great on one car and running differently on another. Despite the differences in both motors, im sure a mechanical carb would run better on the ford then the vacuum as long as it was behind a manual.

Z2887

"Borg Warner didn't build all of the T5's ever made. Borg Warner built and sold T5's until they sold their design to TREMEC. As far as I understand, you can't take a Ford T5 and mate it to a GM engine. And at that, I can just about guarantee that even while Borg Warner owned the design, they weren't manufacturing every transmission being supplied to OEM's. I'll bet they farmed alot of it out to suppliers for both GM and Ford."

Right, but I still dont see who made the tranny has to do with anything we're discussing.....IF the rule applies to ANY manual transmission car.



"As far as I know, Rochester was the major OEM carb for the Thirdgen from 82-88 for GM. I've found nothing on Holley being a supplier of OEM carbs for either Ford or GM."

About everyone supplied Ford with carbs at one time or another. Carter, Holley, a few even came with quadrajets. Holley supplied the ones for the 79-85 Mustangs/Capri's though.


" For all I know, Ford could have a valve that controls the amount of vacuum on the secondaires on the carb that is connected to the throttle cable and calibrated so that it opens the secondaries based on throttle position and not just pure vacuum. So if that vacuum suddenly decreases, the secondaries close in response to lower vacuum."

Well if that is the case, then THAT would answer my question. Which is what Im looking for. Except it needs to say that without the "For all I know" in front of it. Its "For all I know" too. Which is why I asked the question. Because I dont know.

Z2887

I tend to agree...Depending on what is meant by "better". I would guess Ford used a Vacuum secondary carb for "better" gas mileage, and emissions purposes. Which is the posters goal. I have read that "a mechanical secondary carb works better on stick cars". That statement has always been followed by "with steeper gears, and large cams" though.

Quasi-Traction

This thread has gone horribly off course to what the OP wanted to find out.

RedRokkit

Maybe,........but that is one of the reasons I started this thread, Ive learned more about carbs and what to look for when choosing one for a particular application, and what, if any, drawbacks there are when selecting a certain carb.And I can say it hasnt made the selection of said carb MILES easier (mostly due to cost), but now I am armed with the knowledge to make a better decision as to what would best suit my needs for my particular application.......1st thing is that ANY PROPERLY FUNCTIONING CARB wiil produce serious gains in not only MPG but performance as well, Its just weather I lean towards performance or MPG, VS -better MPG vs MS - Better performance.........but in my own mind I am getting a MS Holley - probobly a 4165 for two reasons; first I like it when Im smater than the car I drive, ie: it does what I tell it to do, so I am kinda diggin the fact that the secondaries open when I want them to....and if I keep my foot out of it I should get just as good MPG as a VS unit, second 4165s are a dime a dozen MANY a Q-Jet replaced with them waiting to be had as a used or rebuilt unit. A close third no more Bog when the secondaries open....or so Ive heard. But like Ive stated Im not looking for a $hit ton of performance from my 84 T/A YET......Id settle for not taking out a loan just to keep gas in the damn thing....the main reason the Q-Jet gotta go....and for Five7Kid, If I could afford to keep the Superior Performance of the CC Q-Jet I would but right now its not a finacially feasable option right now.....now when I get the 350 in spring..........

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I never found a good answer to the 4165 electric choke question. I didn't take the time to hook up a cable, so I just suffered through the cold engine poor performance until the engine warmed up a little. It was summertime, so it wasn't as bad as it would have been if I had tried that during the winter.

My q-jet doesn't bog at all. I haven't done anything special on it, just set it to specs.

Cg-OneSic89

His q-jet should have had an electric choke on it from the factory, if the 4165 has one he can just hook up the existing wire, if it doesnt he can get the electric choke kit from summit for rather inexpensive.

Grumbles

There are no mysterious car Gods fellas, let's stop throwing our hands up in the air and blaming the machine spirit for the way things function and instead attempt to understand them.

1) Holley = Autolite, similar to carter = Edelbrock. Autolite/holley 550 and 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary carburetors came factory on 5 liter 5 speed mustangs for a good deal of the "Fox Body" mustang's production up until the implementation of EFI in that particular model of car. Ford did NOT have some sort of mystical vacuum valve that controlled the secondaries. They just slapped the carb on there and called it a day, and for all intents and purposes it worked.

According to this forum and many owner testimonies, GM T5's and Ford T5's are not the same transmission. Why this is escapes me, save perhaps investing in a cheaper variant to save money. World Class T5's can be purchased for our vehicles.

The VS bog theory 5-7 has presented makes some sense. I will be testing it with my own vehicle (having both a 600 cfm VS holley and a spread bore DP). I'll let you know what I think. Fear not, I doubt my impressive 143 HP dyno'd will grenade my transmission.

Did you know Mustands weigh almost 1000 lbs less than a firebird and put out 50 more HP and 50 more ft-lb factory? How suck is that . Oh well, my car is sexier.

Z2887

The T-5's are quite a bit different. You cant even swap bellhousings, and input shafts to make it work. You can get WC, T-5's for Chevy's, but your money would probably be better spent getting a TKO.

When you do the carb test, make sure you adjust the accelerator pump and put the correct shooter in the Holley. That, and the right spring in the secondaries. It will not bog or hesitate if both of those are set up correctly.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

GM T5's had a weaker, flimsier case presumably due to GM's costcutting.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The 4165 is only available with divorced choke. If you can find an electric choke conversion for divorced choke, problem solved. I never found one.

CamarosRUS

Sorry, didn't have time to read the entire thread. Just a question, how could metal shavings from removing the choke tower destroy the metering block? Just take the carb apart, clean all the passages out, and rebuild it.

From what I have gathered (with respect to ALL manufacturers QC), I would do this anyway with any carb purchase, new or not.

Grumbles

We need to talk. What is a tko, and what are shooters/ the secondary "spring". Do you mean the throttle return spring? I'm very interested in what you're saying, please elaborate!

Z2887

TKO is a transmission made by Tremec. Couple of different versions rated up to 600lbs of torque.
No,its not the throttle return spring. There is a spring that controls the opening of the secondaries. Basically the stiffer the spring the more vaccuum it takes for the secondaries to open.

shooters are what actually squirts the gas in. Some people call them squirters.
I'll get some links for you.

DJ_91RS

This link will fill you in on the Tremec TKO trans.... www.tremec.com/

Z2887

I copied this from Angelfire.

Part 6: ADJUSTING THE OPENING POINT OF VACUUM SECONDARIES


There are a number of ways to tune the moment when the vacuum secondaries open on a Holley 4 barrel carb. The vacuum secondaries are controlled by a diaphragm and a color coded spring. Holley makes a number of different springs with different tension on these springs. You can change the springs and change the opening point. The color coded springs run from a light to heavy tension:

• White - Lightest
• Yellow (Short Spring)
• Yellow
• Purple
• Plain (Steel gray)
• Brown
• Black - Heaviest

Z2887

Secondary Spring kit
http://www.holley.com/20-13.asp

They go inside this. Just so you know where they are.some are black plastic too)
http://www.holley.com/20-13.asp

or to make quick changes you can replace that with this(quick change kit. Makes it alot faster)
http://www.holley.com/20-59.asp

Accelerator Pump Cams
http://www.holley.com/20-12.asp

These are the shooters/squirters/ discharge nozzles. look down through the top of the carb, and you can see them. They come in varios sizes, and brands to fit Holleys.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HL...0/?image=large

You can find about all the info you want on the Holley site. If not, I have always had excellent customer service from them.

Z2887

Sorry for hijacking your carb thread with tranny info. I guess it kind of is a tranny thread too though. Since supposedly a VC carb will break your T-5.

Heres a Chevy TKO600. This is D&D's site. Thats who I usually like to deal with on transmissions. They know their stuff, and will answer any qustions you may have.
http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...47cPath=107_91

There are others too. Liberty, Astro, and G-Force all build T-5's with ratings over 500 lbs of torque. You can get various options to raise or lower the rating. Pro shifted or with syncro's, ect, ect.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Forget all that stuff.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-63-1/

Z2887

Yep that will do it too. If you want to buy one thats the way to go. I showed him those because it looks like what he would be seeing on a out of the box carb.

Cg-OneSic89

Ah, old school. Only Downside with the divorced choke is it relies on manifold temp and i have yet to see a good intake with the ability to hook one up. His best bet would be to take a dremel and knock out the choke butterfly and just live with te ill temperment it will have in cooler weather and on first startups.

An easier option would to be grab a mr gasket carb adapter, and rebuild a 650DP. Better carb in general, and they are literally everywhere.

Holleys avenger series use the quick change secondaries and speaking from experience they are a pain to get to a sweet spot with because you are limited to what spring they give you. QFT's uses a screw which can make 10x more adjustments then the spring kit. Another option is the Proform, albeit its the same thing at a slightly higher cost.

Quasi-Traction

Q-jet? I must be behind the times of what you're running five7kid. I dont get on here much, admittedly, but, reading all your posts, you're the guy who's convinced me to run a DP with my 5 speed on my 86 SC/Berlinetta. I've had great luck with my 650 DP after some local help and some tips from here, and the Dave Emmanuel's Holley book's tips.

RedRokkit

Are you speaking of the Holley 4150 instead of the 4165? I did wonder what that "divorced choke" meant looks like I may have some more research to do...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Q-jet on the Camaro, DP on the '57.

Grumbles

I actually have a spread bore holley 650 DP, it's just in **** poor condition at the moment. I decided to purchase a second holley for a pretty reasonable price instead of go through the hassle of finding somebody to rebuild it at the moment. All in good time.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I may be wrong, but it's my understanding that the spreadbore Holleys dont have much in common with the squarebore ones.

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

Maybe it will help someone.

Grumbles

Fantastic info on that page.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Horribly biased information.

I wouldn't call an air door a desirable feature. It's a crutch - which happens to work better than vacuum secondaries, in my biased opinion.

Perhaps the ideal carb would have an air door on the primaries as well so you wouldn't have to have an accelerator pump at all.

The issues I had with the 4165 (List 6210):
- Couldn't get the divorced choke to work.
- I was adding complexity by maintaining the CC ignition - I hooked up an external TPS to keep the computer happy (kept the TCC lock-up and knock sensor functional).
- I'd get a surface street cruise (40-45 mph, TCC locked) lean O2 error code - the car was running fine, but apparently the CC system actually runs richer than the Holley under those conditions.
- Even though I used a TV corrector bracket, the tranny didn't shift quite as ideally as it does with the q-jet, typically under slightly aggressive street driving conditions. Wasn't "bad", just not as "nice".
- At the track, the car wasn't any quicker than it was with the q-jet (but it wasn't any slower, either).

I'd still keep/fix a CC q-jet before putting on a 4165.

MR NICE

I had a spread bore holley on a 455 ci jet boat,ran like a scalded dog,great responce.

basiccamaro

I'm just an old guy that has played around with this stuff ever since I was a young pup. I've been through the old 4 speeds and then onto automatics. When I was young word was it had to be a Holley, and stock engines (even facrory Hi-Po stuff in the musclecar era before the smog years crap) and Q-Jets were junk. You had to build it better on your own and it had to have a big old double pumper Holley. But I've researched, studied and built a few more rigs over the years. Turns out that what myself and others some times built were inefficient, high strung noise makers that didn't run as well as a good, nicely tuned stock musclecar. AND, gas was very cheap back then and of a better quality.

A lot has changed since then for both good and bad. Now I like to go through and pick out the best of what's out there and apply it to my ride as economically as possible while still getting some good kick in the *** performance and still be able to afford to drive it. You have to know your limitations. I'd love to have a baaaad motor like a lot of guys on this board have, but living in reality I know I'll just be building a pretty mild daily driver. That doesn't mean it can't still be fun and run fairly hard!

In my opinion, in this case a Quadrajet would be a very good choice, better than a Holley. I'd definately get away from the computer controlled deal though.
If you go the Q-Jet route you must be aware that an old Q-Jet can have some weaknesses that can and need to be addressed. Not knowing or wanting to prepare to deal with these weaknesses is how Q-Jets got a bad rep when people just slap on an old one and expect it to work perfectly straight away.
Q-Jets are a bit more complicated than a Holley, but they pay dividends in gas mileage and performance if you are willing to learn a little about them. And Q-Jets are very adaptable to the demands of different engines and engine sizes. A Q-Jet won't use or draw more fuel into the engine than it needs, unlike a double pumper Holley. Q-Jets were installed by the factory on everything from V-6's to the baddest high horsepower big blocks right from GM.

Go get Cliff Ruggles book on rebuilding Q-Jets for high performance and read it and expand your mind and use that knowledge to your advantage. This book goes WAAAYYY deep into building a super duty Q-Jet, but you can just use the basic tips and build a really nice running unit. My personal opinion is that I don't even want a rebuilt carb from most of the carb shops out there. After reading and studying I feel that certain builder/suppliers like Cliff Ruggles, the carb Shop and Sean Murphy will supply you with better parts and pieces designed for the new crap gas and with high performance in mind. You are going to have to pay for these quality parts and pieces but if you can do it yourself you will still come out OK. You only have to have reasonably good mechanical skills and tools, and maybe a good instructional book to do it.

My personal taste is to use a Holley flange intake and a Holley- to Q-Jet manifold adapter turned upside down. You have to do a litle modding to the bolt holes in the adapter plate but it works well. I don't like the thin wall of a Quadrajet- style intake where part of the carb- to- intake gasket sits. It just seems a little beefier on the adapter plate in that area to me.

If I was going to build a high dollar, big inch, single purpose, dedicated race engine, or circle track or road race engine, I'd probably want a totally mechanical- action Holley carb. But for what I am doing, a good Q-Jet, and that means one that I will probably have to work on myself, is the best deal in both a financial and operational sense.

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

The ccc q-jet is the best carb for your engine, it will deliver the best fuel economy and driveability and outperform any holley vacuum secondary.

The reason your car stinks and your getting 12mpg is its stuck in full rich mode, im surprised your spark plugs arent fouled out already.. Something is probably disconnected or broken.

Fixing the q-jet would be the easiest, cheapest and best solution. Want more perfomance? Put thinner rods in the secondaries and play with the air valve tension.

rodsatheart

iTrader: (1)

Ok, now I guess I'll chime in on this one.
Yes MS carbs are better on man.trans cars especially in racing apps., but both will work fine IF TUNED PROPERLY !!
I would stick with a spread bore. Either Q-jet or 4165. The smaller size of the primaries is where any spreadbore shines with off idle response and milage. If you want to use Q-jet go find one off mid 70's 350 with the electric choke. If you want the performance version of the Q-jet go find a mid 70's truck with a big block and look for a m4me (modified version). You will have to get it down some to work, but the nice thing is that you already have the jets, rods and secondary rod hanger in your current carb that will work fine.
As far as rebuilding, they are just as easy to rebuild as a Holley and most parts stores will stock the rebuild kit. Just get a nice big work area to lay parts out in order as you remove them.
Even when you put a new engine in the bird the Q-jet will work fine. These carbs have been under rated by everyone for years and are just recently being given the credit for horse power supporting potential that they have. They are a bit more complicated than a Holley, but you can get all the resorces you need off the net.
I had a bunch of stuff before the tornado took the house that I would have been happy to give you, but I'm not sure it is around anymore. I will look for it.
So to simplify matters. Go find a 75 chevy or gmc truck with a 454 and electric choke carb and get a rebuild kit for it. While you are rebuilding it take the jets,mettering rods and secondary rod hanger out of your old carb and put them in the rebuild so it will work on your engine. (save the old jets and rods. you made need them on the new engine).
Now the stinking computer is gone(can't stand these things anyway) and you have retained the milage and off idle responsiveness of the Q-jet.
Just my two cents worth (well may ten).

rodsatheart

iTrader: (1)

Here's a couple of links of very usefull info on the Q-jet.

http://buickperformance.com/qjet.html

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...arb_Tuning.pdf

rjmcgee

You don't need to remove the whole harness.

Z2887

Exactly

nvsteyn

"Go find a 75 chevy or gmc truck with a 454 and electric choke carb and get a rebuild kit for it. While you are rebuilding it take the jets,mettering rods and secondary rod hanger out of your old carb and put them in the rebuild so it will work on your engine. (save the old jets and rods. you made need them on the new engine).
Now the stinking computer is gone(can't stand these things anyway) and you have retained the milage and off idle responsiveness of the Q-jet.
Just my two cents worth (well may ten)."[/quote]

And my two cent worth responding to your post after reading this entirely entertaing post lol would be that if you find a 73-75 stock 454 that you leave it the heck alone or restore the entire truck being that they are becoming more rare every day <FACT>... i got in a head on collision [which wasn't my fault to establish a lil credibility] in my 74 350 cheyenne a little more than a month ago and probaly will never find another beauty like her.... so again the mid to early 70's chevy trucks are or will be more valuable and would most likely blow the doors off your third gen..... and will hold up in a 100+ mph impact.... lol funny to me but thats cause im still breathing.... so now i have to get my 83 t-5 z-28 running because my pride and joy is crushed like a can...... one more time dont tear apart a classic to build your pony car have a lil respect..... much love and respect to the chevy enthusiasts ,OP and all others who'd posted on this thread sorry to take it a lil of course but it kind of struck a chord i guess....

And my other twos cents would be restore your(redrokkit) t/a to factory condition with the QJet and all vacumm lines and 02 sensors blah blah ya its a mess and a lot of work but it would become more valuable due to rarity, performance, reliability, etc..., as many disagree with this thinking and start bubba'n the heck out of a General Motors Masterpiece........

Nothin like another contraversial opinion to strike interest in this thread again........................................

rodsatheart

iTrader: (1)

I will not argue the value or integrity of that gen truck as I had a 75 GMC big block camper special that was my baby that I had to sell a few years back and I still miss it.
I'm glad you find all this amusing.
Most don't know the different q-jet carbs and their potential, but evidently you do so you should be helping also.
Usually there is a reason these trucks have been put to rest in a junk yard and to get one out and restore it would usually take a pretty large chunk of change, and the person that would restore it will not be as strapped as Red is to have to do things on a budget and tight time frame which is one reason he is attempting to get away from all the computer and smog equip. He could go down to AutoZone or another local parts store and pay 250-300 for a rebuilt carb for that gen truck, but why when junk yard should be around 25.00 and kit around 20.00 and save for the engine he wants or some other upgrade or mod he is wanting to do which is what hot rodding is all about.
If every one left all their rides stock and did no mods or upgrades the hot rodding world would never exist.

[IMG]file:///D:/DOCUME%7E1/Brien/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]kind of struck a chord i guess....[IMG]file:///D:/DOCUME%7E1/Brien/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]