So I've tried asking this once on this forum board and also on team camaro's forum and NO ONE has helped yet.

My 85 is idling too fast. when I go to turn it off the engine almost chugs because I guess it has gas still going in. I can turn the ignition and and it keeps going.

PLEASE HELP!

 

Not a carb issue if it keeps running after you cut the key off, it's a timing issue - you need to check base timing.

 

Probably your high idle but also if you have an electric cooling fan or fan motor wired direct it will provide juice to the engine as it spins down and the car will run for a sec or two longer.

 

ok because A mechanic friend looked at it and the one part of the carburetor (sorry not very auto-literate) there is the 3 parts, 2 side by side parts and the 3rd is on the end of those 2. he said the metal flap should be vertical but it was at a 45 degree angle.

 

Sounds like choke is not positioned correctly.

 

NCcowboy, you were given the advice in your other thread you started on this same topic to do a search on adjusting the fast idle, then was asked how your car was running. You never responded. So did you do a search here about adjusting the fast idle? I'm guessing you didn't.

The fast idle is adjusted by a screw on the passenger side of the carb. The normal ( curb ) idle is adjusted by a similar screw on the drivers side of the carb. Maybe you just need to turn the curb idle screw out a bit. If you don't know where these screws are located, look at the exploded view of any Qjet carb and it will be labeled.

Maybe you can provide some pics of your carb?

You REALLY need to invest in a Chassis Service Manual for your car.

 

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Well here's a pic that I think is what I have. Number 1 is the piece that he said should be vertical but instead it's at a 45 degree angle. Number 2 is the part he said I should be able to turn in order to adjust the idle speed but in stead of it having screws holding it in it has rivets.

 

#1 is the butterfly valve. #2 is the electric choke. #2 gets electricity to a coil inside, making it heat up, which makes the coil 'unwind', and thus turns #1 to open/close it. It gets closed more when the car is colder, thus blocking air to the carb and making the mixture richer to keep the car running until it warms up.

Doesn't really tell you what to do, but explains the process. You'll need to search and get info on proper choke adjustment procedures, then look at yours and adjust it to be correct. Are you sure it's rivets and not just screws with gunk filling the slots? The choke coil housing HAS to be able to be loosened as well as replaced, and I've never seen any carb with a permanently attached choke housing.

 

Camaronewbie is right. It sounds like timing causing a run-on situation but could be carb adjustment also. You might have a choke issue. The only thing is that you may very well have a riveted on electric choke. Many were riveted from the factory and have to be very carefully drilled out and screws put in. These screws often come with a replacement choke. The reasoning was that once set at the factory it did not need to be reset along with the air/fuel adjustment screws on the later carbs, caps put over them, as any adjustment would affect the emmissions. The only thing they did not say was that the factory settings were only very close and not necessarily right for your altitude and climate.

 

If the choke isn't opening up, it will stay on high idle and will run on after the ignition is turned off, even if the timing is set correctly.

You don't need be able to adjust the choke thermostat. Either it works, or it doesn't. The #1 most common reason for it not working properly is it isn't getting the necessary 12 volts to warm it up so it opens the choke - that silver tab on the part you circled and labeled "2" is where the wire should connect. Make sure the wire is connected, and that it has 12 volts when the engine is running. #2 most common reason for the choke not working properly is the thermostat is shot.

 

45 degrees shouldn't be horrible for it but isn't correct either.

Also, make sure the EGR valve starts to stall the engine a little bit when you pull up from underneath it. If it doesn't, the engine could be running hotter due to a clogged intake manifold / lack of EGR.

 

Sorry, but what is the EGR/EGR valve....I'm trying to learn sorry :/

 

No, it's not the EGR.

Fix the choke.

 

do I need to replace the choke?

 

You need to do what five7kid sad and test your choke operation..
Do you have a test light or multimeter? If not you should find somone that does and knows how to use it.

 

ok question, I'm planning on drilling out the rivets tomorrow on the choke, when I do which way do I turn it?

 

YOU DON'T TURN IT!

It either works, or it doesn't. If it isn't getting 12 volts, fix whatever is wrong that is keeping it from getting 12 volts. If it is getting 12 volts, then replace the thermostat.

 

Is there an electric connector plugged in on your choke?