Race Demon Carb - Boiling gas after warm up
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 40
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 355
Transmission: 5 speed Manual
Axle/Gears: Stock
Race Demon Carb - Boiling gas after warm up
My temp gauge stays solid at 210, I just switched to this carb from and Edelbrck 1406 which was a huge increase, however after the car is warmed up and I kill the engine it will barely start, I took off the aircleaner and the gas is bubbling out, once the engine cools its better.
Will a simple plactic spacer fix this?
I went to Jegs, but It seems they are for certain carbs? Looking for one to fit my application.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-...43742/10002/-1
Appreciate any help or input from others that have had this issue.
Car is an 89 Z28, 355, Mild Cam
Will a simple plactic spacer fix this?
I went to Jegs, but It seems they are for certain carbs? Looking for one to fit my application.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-...43742/10002/-1
Appreciate any help or input from others that have had this issue.
Car is an 89 Z28, 355, Mild Cam
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,996
Likes: 2,485
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Race Demon Carb - Boiling gas after warm up
I'd suggest a spacer for the fuel pump instead of the carb. https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...&category=8510
210° is a COMPLETELY NORMAL running temp. Not a problem. Not the cause of your symptom.
210° is a COMPLETELY NORMAL running temp. Not a problem. Not the cause of your symptom.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: Race Demon Carb - Boiling gas after warm up
Here is what is happening ot my car. Apply it to yours and see where the similarities may or may not be.
In the summer, I can drive my car for 20 minutes. Park it and go to class or see a friend for an hour. Then hop back in, and I have my fuel pump on a manual switch. So I can crank the car and it rns fine. Then I will hit the fuel pump switch and the car will immediately flood out and stall.
Here is what I think is happening. The fuel isnt hot enough to boil, but it is hot enough to hit gasoline's rapid vaporization temperature. Gasoline in my carb is hitting that temp and just evaporating off through the vent tube, perhaps some is bubbling out of the air bleeds, I dont know, but it isnt enough to cause a problem. Whenever I get to crank the car the vaporized fuel in the bowls is long gone. But the carburetor is very hot, and by extension, so are my feed lines near the carb and near the upper rad hose that they go over. The fuel in the carb can just evaporate off into oblivion. The fuel vapor in the feed line collects at the highest point it can get to, which is right up against the needle/seat assembly in my float bowls.
When I turn off my fuel pump, my fuel lines de-pressurize (which also lowers the boiling temp, which is why it never does it when the car is running I think, in addition to the fuel constantly moving through and never sitting in one place long enough to heat soak) and that vapor is just sitting comfortably against the needle and seat assembly in my carb. When I hit my fuel pump switch, that line pressurizes, and immediately all taht hot fuel vapor spews into my fuel bowls, and what happens is the turbulence in the fuel bowls from that vapor along with the gas it pushes around ends up spewing out of the bowl vents.
Apparently my rear float was kind of high, now that it's set where it needs to be, and the fronts were a little high, also now set where it needs to be, the problem is much less severe, but it is still bad enough to stall the car on a hot restart.
What I've had to do is use the toggle switch to momentarily and slightly pressurize the fuel line, and then turn it off. On for a second, off for a second, etc. After a few cycles usually all the vapor in the lines has bled off and it will run fine.
I have sat tehre first hand and watched 3-5 inch geysers spew out of the bowl vents, and you can see the vapor that comes along iwth it. It's clearly very volatile hot gasses spewing out, and just taking liquid fuel along for the ride.
Short term solution - toggle the fuel pump switch on hot days on hot restarts. Now that I know what's going on and I can anticipate it and cycle the fuel pump a few times it always works out fine.
Long term solution - use some copper piping and connect the bowl vents to each other with a single copper line across the top of the carburetor, then drill holes in the top of that line. I have a mocked up experimental version made from plug boots and rubber line and it worked beautifully. The extra volume and the angles required for the gas to go through seem to allow the gas to work its way through the vents without taking fuel with it.
I've read about this a LOT on the internet, and I've never heard anyone say a phenolic spacer cured the problem. It's theoretically the perfect solution, but I've never heard any positive feedback from it.
In the summer, I can drive my car for 20 minutes. Park it and go to class or see a friend for an hour. Then hop back in, and I have my fuel pump on a manual switch. So I can crank the car and it rns fine. Then I will hit the fuel pump switch and the car will immediately flood out and stall.
Here is what I think is happening. The fuel isnt hot enough to boil, but it is hot enough to hit gasoline's rapid vaporization temperature. Gasoline in my carb is hitting that temp and just evaporating off through the vent tube, perhaps some is bubbling out of the air bleeds, I dont know, but it isnt enough to cause a problem. Whenever I get to crank the car the vaporized fuel in the bowls is long gone. But the carburetor is very hot, and by extension, so are my feed lines near the carb and near the upper rad hose that they go over. The fuel in the carb can just evaporate off into oblivion. The fuel vapor in the feed line collects at the highest point it can get to, which is right up against the needle/seat assembly in my float bowls.
When I turn off my fuel pump, my fuel lines de-pressurize (which also lowers the boiling temp, which is why it never does it when the car is running I think, in addition to the fuel constantly moving through and never sitting in one place long enough to heat soak) and that vapor is just sitting comfortably against the needle and seat assembly in my carb. When I hit my fuel pump switch, that line pressurizes, and immediately all taht hot fuel vapor spews into my fuel bowls, and what happens is the turbulence in the fuel bowls from that vapor along with the gas it pushes around ends up spewing out of the bowl vents.
Apparently my rear float was kind of high, now that it's set where it needs to be, and the fronts were a little high, also now set where it needs to be, the problem is much less severe, but it is still bad enough to stall the car on a hot restart.
What I've had to do is use the toggle switch to momentarily and slightly pressurize the fuel line, and then turn it off. On for a second, off for a second, etc. After a few cycles usually all the vapor in the lines has bled off and it will run fine.
I have sat tehre first hand and watched 3-5 inch geysers spew out of the bowl vents, and you can see the vapor that comes along iwth it. It's clearly very volatile hot gasses spewing out, and just taking liquid fuel along for the ride.
Short term solution - toggle the fuel pump switch on hot days on hot restarts. Now that I know what's going on and I can anticipate it and cycle the fuel pump a few times it always works out fine.
Long term solution - use some copper piping and connect the bowl vents to each other with a single copper line across the top of the carburetor, then drill holes in the top of that line. I have a mocked up experimental version made from plug boots and rubber line and it worked beautifully. The extra volume and the angles required for the gas to go through seem to allow the gas to work its way through the vents without taking fuel with it.
I've read about this a LOT on the internet, and I've never heard anyone say a phenolic spacer cured the problem. It's theoretically the perfect solution, but I've never heard any positive feedback from it.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Mid coastal-inland, SC
Car: 81' Z28, 87' Iroc Z28, 05' GMC Z71
Engine: LB9 - 305 TPI - 190 H.P.
Axle/Gears: G92 - 3.23
Re: Race Demon Carb - Boiling gas after warm up
Here is what is happening ot my car. Apply it to yours and see where the similarities may or may not be.
In the summer, I can drive my car for 20 minutes. Park it and go to class or see a friend for an hour. Then hop back in, and I have my fuel pump on a manual switch. So I can crank the car and it rns fine. Then I will hit the fuel pump switch and the car will immediately flood out and stall.
Here is what I think is happening. The fuel isnt hot enough to boil, but it is hot enough to hit gasoline's rapid vaporization temperature. Gasoline in my carb is hitting that temp and just evaporating off through the vent tube, perhaps some is bubbling out of the air bleeds, I dont know, but it isnt enough to cause a problem. Whenever I get to crank the car the vaporized fuel in the bowls is long gone. But the carburetor is very hot, and by extension, so are my feed lines near the carb and near the upper rad hose that they go over. The fuel in the carb can just evaporate off into oblivion. The fuel vapor in the feed line collects at the highest point it can get to, which is right up against the needle/seat assembly in my float bowls.
When I turn off my fuel pump, my fuel lines de-pressurize (which also lowers the boiling temp, which is why it never does it when the car is running I think, in addition to the fuel constantly moving through and never sitting in one place long enough to heat soak) and that vapor is just sitting comfortably against the needle and seat assembly in my carb. When I hit my fuel pump switch, that line pressurizes, and immediately all taht hot fuel vapor spews into my fuel bowls, and what happens is the turbulence in the fuel bowls from that vapor along with the gas it pushes around ends up spewing out of the bowl vents.
Apparently my rear float was kind of high, now that it's set where it needs to be, and the fronts were a little high, also now set where it needs to be, the problem is much less severe, but it is still bad enough to stall the car on a hot restart.
What I've had to do is use the toggle switch to momentarily and slightly pressurize the fuel line, and then turn it off. On for a second, off for a second, etc. After a few cycles usually all the vapor in the lines has bled off and it will run fine.
I have sat tehre first hand and watched 3-5 inch geysers spew out of the bowl vents, and you can see the vapor that comes along iwth it. It's clearly very volatile hot gasses spewing out, and just taking liquid fuel along for the ride.
Short term solution - toggle the fuel pump switch on hot days on hot restarts. Now that I know what's going on and I can anticipate it and cycle the fuel pump a few times it always works out fine.
Long term solution - use some copper piping and connect the bowl vents to each other with a single copper line across the top of the carburetor, then drill holes in the top of that line. I have a mocked up experimental version made from plug boots and rubber line and it worked beautifully. The extra volume and the angles required for the gas to go through seem to allow the gas to work its way through the vents without taking fuel with it.
I've read about this a LOT on the internet, and I've never heard anyone say a phenolic spacer cured the problem. It's theoretically the perfect solution, but I've never heard any positive feedback from it.
In the summer, I can drive my car for 20 minutes. Park it and go to class or see a friend for an hour. Then hop back in, and I have my fuel pump on a manual switch. So I can crank the car and it rns fine. Then I will hit the fuel pump switch and the car will immediately flood out and stall.
Here is what I think is happening. The fuel isnt hot enough to boil, but it is hot enough to hit gasoline's rapid vaporization temperature. Gasoline in my carb is hitting that temp and just evaporating off through the vent tube, perhaps some is bubbling out of the air bleeds, I dont know, but it isnt enough to cause a problem. Whenever I get to crank the car the vaporized fuel in the bowls is long gone. But the carburetor is very hot, and by extension, so are my feed lines near the carb and near the upper rad hose that they go over. The fuel in the carb can just evaporate off into oblivion. The fuel vapor in the feed line collects at the highest point it can get to, which is right up against the needle/seat assembly in my float bowls.
When I turn off my fuel pump, my fuel lines de-pressurize (which also lowers the boiling temp, which is why it never does it when the car is running I think, in addition to the fuel constantly moving through and never sitting in one place long enough to heat soak) and that vapor is just sitting comfortably against the needle and seat assembly in my carb. When I hit my fuel pump switch, that line pressurizes, and immediately all taht hot fuel vapor spews into my fuel bowls, and what happens is the turbulence in the fuel bowls from that vapor along with the gas it pushes around ends up spewing out of the bowl vents.
Apparently my rear float was kind of high, now that it's set where it needs to be, and the fronts were a little high, also now set where it needs to be, the problem is much less severe, but it is still bad enough to stall the car on a hot restart.
What I've had to do is use the toggle switch to momentarily and slightly pressurize the fuel line, and then turn it off. On for a second, off for a second, etc. After a few cycles usually all the vapor in the lines has bled off and it will run fine.
I have sat tehre first hand and watched 3-5 inch geysers spew out of the bowl vents, and you can see the vapor that comes along iwth it. It's clearly very volatile hot gasses spewing out, and just taking liquid fuel along for the ride.
Short term solution - toggle the fuel pump switch on hot days on hot restarts. Now that I know what's going on and I can anticipate it and cycle the fuel pump a few times it always works out fine.
Long term solution - use some copper piping and connect the bowl vents to each other with a single copper line across the top of the carburetor, then drill holes in the top of that line. I have a mocked up experimental version made from plug boots and rubber line and it worked beautifully. The extra volume and the angles required for the gas to go through seem to allow the gas to work its way through the vents without taking fuel with it.
I've read about this a LOT on the internet, and I've never heard anyone say a phenolic spacer cured the problem. It's theoretically the perfect solution, but I've never heard any positive feedback from it.
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