I recently bought a built 383sbc for my 1987 Iroc-z and was wondering what everyone thinks about it and if they think the right parts were used, going to just be a weekend car,road trips, stuff like that not a every day driver..Everything is new which ill be getting a T56 also

Gave $3800-Good or bad deal?????

Chevrolet s/b 383 ci 2 bolt late mod
6 in eagle h-beam rods
4.030 claimer series KB pistons file fit rings
Cast steel eagle 3.375 stroke crank one piece rear main
Melling hi volume pump
Jegs drag strip oil pan and pick-up
Ati Super Dampner SFI cert.
Hayes SFI cert flex plate
Eldelbrock E-force alum. Heads in.2.02 ex.1.600 Manley stainless steel swirl polished under cut valves
Arp head studs arp 12 pt bolt kit
Edelbrock performer rpm air-gap Nascar series intake gasket matched runners
Speed Demon 650 cfm mechanical
Msd dist. Bill tech
Msd 6al digital box
Msd blaster coil Msd 8mm wires custom
Engine rotating assembly balanced
All roller comp valve train with comp cam gear drive timing set
,Hyd roller comp in.490 ex.508 113 lobe seperation and 292 duration
Valve spring installed heights set For correct geometry

 

I think you will end up with a 344; perhaps a 3.75 crank would help.

 

I Hope its a 3.75 crank or least it better be.lol..that might have been missed typed...

 

Lose the gear drive.

 

Yea wouldn't hurt to replace with a double roller...i have a brand new one I gotten for my 350tpi but prob couldn't use it...

 

While you're in there replacing the gear drive, I'd consider swapping the cam to something with less duration.
I don't know which Edelbrock heads you have, but even if they can support the high rpm airflow that cam is capable of, I wouldn't want to be shifting it in the high 6's with that cast crank in there. I don't know if you realize, but aftermarket cast cranks, including that Eagle, are a downgrade from the stock crank, and high rpm's usually crack them.
If you want that crank to remain in one piece, I'd pick a cam around the 230 range (~280-282 advertised) to move the powerband to the left. More like a 110 LSA would be a better idea too.
Hopefully it's really a forged crank ("cast" and "steel" in the same description makes me wonder what it really is), and you'll be ok with what's in there.

 

Didnt know that, thanks for the info, ill have to look into that in a few days and see if its steel or cast and then see about another cam...i looked at a few today thats around what your saying about duration....what cam would you put in it...