BlackTopKing

iTrader: (1)

I am in agreement with the vacuum secondary for street application of my car and feel good it will be fine with the Trans as that was my biggest consern and only reason I thought I had to have DP. But that was based on some write ups I read...in this thread and the information given (links included) the DP is more of a factor when the motor as a whole is built up. Especially Cam and Head upgrades.

Were I'm at now... Flow wise, not much is changing and to be honest. It's one of my issues I have now with TPI, too rich down low rpm and leaning out on higher rpms....fed up with chips and that issue (not reason for swap, just drivability).

BlackTopKing

iTrader: (1)

What is the QJet?
That's corner jets verse the one primary?!

I would imagine that would be extremely tunable. Although I am happy with out it.

Would still like to know

skinny z

Qjet is short form for Quadra-Jet. The OEM four barrels that landed on millions of small block chevys (amongst others) back in the day.
It has an air flow actuated secondary barrel operation that functions according to engine demand much like the vacuum secondary carbs we've been discussing. The actual operation is different but the principle is the same. Some folks have great results with them and certain classes of drag racing used to mandate that the Q-Jet be used.
As for tuning, like anything, getting the carb to give you a suitable air fuel ratio (AFR) at any engine speed or load takes work. That said, do yourself a MASSIVE favour and invest in a wide band O2 sensor and gauge. Yes it's another expense but you will drive yourself crazy attempting to tune with out one. At least the serious tuning I'm talking about anyway. Drag racers have relied on plug reading for years to do their tuning. That's not bad if all you're doing is WOT mixtures. Try pulling plugs for all the cruise ranges you'll be driving in. No thanks. The gauge tells all.
I have this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...4100/overview/
Once you dig into your book, you'll see how important it is.
Be sure you get a vacuum gauge too.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

x2 on all that. qjet obviously worked well on many vehicles but to me for a modified car it just seems to complicated. the holley is very simple to understand. if its lean cruising, put a bigger primary jet in it. if its rich at wot put a smaller secondary jet in. etc..

as far as those cfm calculators i dont trust any. i learned the most before all this internet was popular, you would go and "talk" to people at the track who have similar setups and see what they have to say. so many have tried 650dp or 750 and the ones you see have better times you know they are the ones to listen to. all the ones that have fast cars and 350's have 750 carbs. and if they had the 650 before they say the 750 is faster. stock probably not but that is the compromise you will have to choose.

skinny z

You have to be sure you're comparing carbs that have equal specs depsite the deifference in cfm. Booster type plays a huge role in how the carb behaves and provides mixture quality.
You also have to take the tuner's skills into consideration. It could very well be that they could be faster with the 650 but the 750 had a better tune.
As for calculators, they are guidelines yes, but useful ones.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

thats why i said you pay attention to what the guys times are, if he says he knows what he is doing then runs way slower than he should, then you dont pay attention to what he said. plus alot of the folk are the same people so you see the times before and after. the track timer doesnt lie. i was there most every week for many years, before i got married and had kids, lol

BlackTopKing

iTrader: (1)

Goodnews, is I got guy coming by to look at TPI .
If sells ill be good to go, if not...still can get started and may just get with some little things to do, but will like to get the major pieces in, intake carb dizzy and fuel system....

Question is...I read a few things with the wiring and I'm ok with it.
Like fuel pump to ignition. Fan is on swirch now, probably rewire that differently anyway....
But since the car is digital dash....how much of that comes into ecu...like to pull ecu completely. But I'm really sure, nothing on dash reflects ecu directly.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

im not sure how the digital dash compares to my 87, which had electronic inputs. when i changed over to the carb 305 from 2.8 i only had the voltmeter and fuel gauge work. the oil and temp might have worked if i had hooked up the oem senders. i just got aftermarket oil/temp/tach. and i keep a gps in it for speed. not much help, i think there are people who figured it out but mine isnt restored looking with everything else i got so i dont care

BlackTopKing

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys.

Well after a few weeks of saving and scraping. I have finally come ready to pull trigger and shall start bringing in the parts this week.

I am doing the 350-7101 intake which is the edlebrock rpm$188.00 for jegs and with installation kit $233.99 (hella lot for some gaskets?)
Mallory 4309 fuel reg $104 (kinda high compared to ebay prices)
and distributor (way too many choices) so i am thinking of the MSD 8362 @ $149.95 but i could of sworn i had seen one at about $100.00

so i will play price finder today and tomorrow.

my question now is the fuel lines
i was gonna get the goodyear 62160sae 20r4 rad hose (tbi-replacement) but not sure about water neck for intake, guess dont really matter.

is there is kit for the fuel line that could work? i know ii would have to get a few AN parts (guess earlys) but i would pay the little extra for a kit pre paid and ready to go.

any advice to direction with the parts and prices would help, def in a budget so the more i can save one way the more i can spend another.

TBI cable i guess is ok, found replacement #ATPY755 @rockauto...

thanks

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

That's the wrong intake to replace your tpi, center bolts are at a different angle you will need some angled spacers for them to work.


Install kit includes bolts as well.

Watch out for cheaper prices on eBay, a lot of countfiet parts being sold these days, including msd. That's why they changed the design of the boxes.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Yep, was reading about counterfeits as well. MSD's rusting and failed gears. there was a thread on here IIRC.

FWIW, I ran an 8365 but I don't know what the difference is other than cost. One thing that was disappointing was a suggestion on the box to upgrade the coil! Lol, I thought for what I spent it would already have their best.

Here:
http://www.hotrod.com/feature_storie...#ixzz2vqxsb73q

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364568

http://bangshift.com/general-news/sp...ms-components/