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CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
Sorry if this is in the wrong location. But it is carb. related. I want to change the gas filter on the '84 T/A, but I can't find it (keep in mind, this is my first Firebird ever). And when I look to buy one online, I keep finding to completely different filters. So which is correct? The 2 that keep coming up are these 2.
The auto parts store sold my son this one which according to online sources, is for a Pontiac Sunfire?
Observe the large nut that the smaller blue fitting in the photo screws into, and the word "FILTER" on the casting next to it with the arrow pointing to where the filter is. The fuel filter is right there, inside that nut. Your car probably still has the original steel line on it, so your nut won't be blue, but it will be pretty close to the same otherwise.
Unscrew the steel line nut, using a 5/8" flare nut wrench - NOT an open end, NOT a Crescent wrench, NOT Channellocks, Not Vise-Grips, NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT - a 5/8" flare nut wrench ONLY, while supporting the large nut with a 1" open end wrench. Soak it overnight with PBBlaster or Kroil or other similar penetrating oil - NOT WD-40 - first.DO NOT attempt to unscrew the flare nut without supporting the big nut, if you do that you will UTTERLY DESTROY your steel fuel line!!!
The filter is inside that nut. Take it to the store and match it up to what you see hanging on the cards, you won't have any trouble identifying it. It will look similar to the one GT posted, except MUCH shorter; maybe a bit over an inch long. Should cost less than $5. Note that there is a spring in the carb behind it, and that the filter MUST go in the correct way: there's a little rubber valve kind of thing in one end (you can see it in the similar filter in GT's photo, it's black); that end goes toward the incoming fuel line. The end without the valve goes toward the carb with the spring behind it.
Tighten the big nut GENTLY with the 1" open end after starting it and turning it all the way in BY HAND ONLY. DO NOT strip the threads!!!! DO NOT attempt to use a tool on it until you are ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY SURE that it is started and properly threaded in BY HAND!!! The carb will be DESTROYED FOREVER if you cross-thread the casting where the nut screws into it. Then once the nut is installed properly and tightened, install the flare nut into the big nut BY HAND as far as you can get it to go; support the big nut with the 1" open end; and tighten the nut GENTLY with a regular 5/8" open end. Don't overtighten it, you'll just invite more trouble next time you have to disturb it. Use either some grease or a SINGLE wrap of Teflon tape on the threads of the nut, as a lubricant. DO NOT glob it up with tape thinking that's what you need to "seal" it, because the threads aren't the part that seals.
Very good write-up from Sofakingdom. I would just like to add that there is a Teflon washer that goes under the 1" fitting to seal it. This washer is almost clear but more of a milky white. If that isn't replaced, there may be some leakage from the fitting. I'm not sure if one comes with the replacement filter cartridge. If it doesn't, you may have to look online. The are a couple of shops that specialize in carbs that carry all the bits you need.
Thank you. I do know cars, specially old school cars. But I haven't don't a lot of my own work for a long time due to health issues. Trying to get back into it again.
10-14-2017, 09:22 AM
