Ok, before I start, Im gonna give you all the info I about my Camaro from its VIN:

Made in: United States
Manufacturer: General Motors
Make: Chevrolet
Carline Code: F-Body
Carline Series: Camaro (all models)
Body Type: 2 door coupe (hatchback)
Restraint System: Manual belts
Engine Code: 305 ci V8 LG4 (1987)
Model Year: 1987
Assembly Plant: Van Nuys
Production Sequence: 134683

I know thats mostly useless, but ohh well. I know it sucks not to know the things you need.

Now, on to my problems. I was driving down the road a while back, and all of the sudden it started acting funny, lugging when I push the gas, and generally not running all that great. When its sitting in park, and I push on the gas, RPMs drop to next to nothing, but after a half second or so, it revves up like normal. If it seems like the carb, what is a good *PERFECT* replacement that is exacly the same that I can get, and from where.

I am very new to engines and that sort of thing, so please be specific, and not super technical. I know I havent described the problem too well, but its the best I can do.

And dont come around telling me to go out and buy a 350, a nitrous bottle, and a supercharger.


Thanks in advance.

[This message has been edited by glitch77 (edited December 18, 2000).]

 

Before you touch that carb, make sure your entire ignition system is up to snuff. What you're describing sounds exactly like what happened to my nephew in his '86 LG4. It finally quit on him as he was trying to get back to college after spring break.

The cure was ignition module, coil, cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. He reported 27 mpg @ 75 mph, power like never before, after those parts were replaced.

If those things aren't your problem, there is no replacement for your carb, perfect or otherwise. Your best bet is a rebuild; either a rebuilt replacement from a local parts store (big crap shoot), or a custom rebuild of yours from a place like Jet Performance.

Don't worry, a 350, nitrous, or supercharger would not help this problem. It would still be there.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.73 unlimited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, TBD heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

My LG4 did the Same thing, Figured it was the TPS, But I just Ditched the computer And havent Rebuilt the old Carb yet.




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Z28 LG4 - Daily Driver
**Mods**
MSD Superconductors - Vaccum Advance Distributor
14" Open Element - Mech Qjet
KYB all around - Smog EQ Mostly Removed.
Best ET as of yet : 3 hours + to Drive To the Nearest Track

 

THe old rule is that 90% of carburetor problems are found in the ignition. Do as the five7kid says first.

If it doens' cure the problem then you might want to bed borrow or steal a scan tool. You don't know squat unless you see things as the computer sees them.

It might be your carb, or is might be a bad EGR valve, or a charcoal canister that's purging when it shouldn't. No way to know without a scan tool. You could thrwo (EXPENSIVE!) parts at the car for months and not nail it down.

 

Out 83 Z was doing something similar. It seemed to run okay unless you want to accelerate, then it bogged and would actually die if you didn't let up on the gas pedal. After pulling my hair out over it for awhile I found the tiny little spring located on the passenger side top butterfly shaft broken. The purpose of this spring is to delay the opening of that top butterfly slightly so you get some fuel flowing down below before the bottom butterflies suck a bunch of air in and kills the engine. To check it pull of your air filter and gently press down on the butterfly with the engine off. It should slightly resist the pressure before pivoting down and then should close when you let it up. It's a pain to change and then you have to adjust it (a small allen headed bolt locks it in place once you have it correctly adjusted). I ended up taking the carb off the car so I could see what I was doing as it is not visible from up top. The weird stuff always happens to me.

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Z's r Best