Carb Gurus, explain this
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 279
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From: SC
Carb Gurus, explain this
Ok, 350/auto/edelbrock 1406 carb
It will idle fine, l can accelerate from here to there and brake hard and it will resume idling just fine.
On my way to work, there is a 10 or 15 mile stretch of road. Cruising at 60, 1500RPM, no problem, However, when l get to the light the car decides to die. Why?
My fuel pump situation is l have an electric pump inline before the mechanical. The mech pump is dead, but l am using it as a pressure regulator since it has a return line. From there it goes to an inline fuel filter before it gets to the carb.
Thanks for any ideas.
Clayton
It will idle fine, l can accelerate from here to there and brake hard and it will resume idling just fine.
On my way to work, there is a 10 or 15 mile stretch of road. Cruising at 60, 1500RPM, no problem, However, when l get to the light the car decides to die. Why?
My fuel pump situation is l have an electric pump inline before the mechanical. The mech pump is dead, but l am using it as a pressure regulator since it has a return line. From there it goes to an inline fuel filter before it gets to the carb.
Thanks for any ideas.
Clayton
Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Barrie On. Canada
I have experienced that same problem because the torque lock does not release when everthing gets hot. Then it is like the trans mission is connect directly to the engine. If you have a standard trany I have no idea as to what th eproblem is.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 547
Likes: 1
From: Pueblo Co usa
1.It could be a clogged filter.
What was the temp outside? Ive experianced that problem a few times and it was when its fairly cold outside. It would run fine, come to a stop light and it acts like its loaded up with fuel. the only thing i could associate it with was that its so cold the choke closes back up.
What was the temp outside? Ive experianced that problem a few times and it was when its fairly cold outside. It would run fine, come to a stop light and it acts like its loaded up with fuel. the only thing i could associate it with was that its so cold the choke closes back up.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,236
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From: Brockton, MA, USA
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 6.6L 406
Transmission: T-56
Is the carb tuned properly?
------------------
I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT
1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.
future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.
------------------
I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT
1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.
future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 7,072
Likes: 13
From: Philly, PA
While doing 60 try popping it into neutral and see if it keeps running or wants to die. If it idles just fine then I agree with the above post that your trans could be the culprit (if it's equipped with a lockup-type torque converter).
Otherwise, you could have some tuning to do. Setting the idle mix and speed should always be done on a fully warmed up engine- at least 10 miles of driving. If driving in cold weather you can experience carb icing unless the engine is fully warmed up
Otherwise, you could have some tuning to do. Setting the idle mix and speed should always be done on a fully warmed up engine- at least 10 miles of driving. If driving in cold weather you can experience carb icing unless the engine is fully warmed up
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