i have a few questions about my recent carb swap.
1. i bought an accel blueprint distributor with HEI and vac. adv., which side of the carb do I hook the vacuum hose up to?
2. where should the two screws in front of the carb be set at (i.e. all the way in and two turns back out?) on the initial startup.
3. should i use a few drops of gas directly in the carb to start it off?
i would really appreciate any help in this matter

 

The vac advance should be plugged in the pasenger side fiting and the other one should be plugged off completly. The idle screws should be set on a warm engine turn them until in untile the engine starts sputtering then back them off 1 1/4 of a turn. One at a time though. Its fine to use a little gas to get her started but the choke should work great on a dry system. Edelbrocks have killer chokes! Let the engine run 15 min before tunning and make sure the choke is completly released before you tune.
GL
SSC
BTW Holley's are much better carbs!

 

thanks ssc, one more question, should the vacuum line be hooked up to the distributor upon intial startup? and i believe if you know how to tune either carb whether edelbrock or holley they will both perform extremely well.

 

i fired it up today for a few seconds and it shot gas out of the top of it. any idea why it did that? also it won't stay running long.

 

Did it backfire through the carb or did gas actually shoot out? If it backfired then it is probably timing. I have the same HEI and carb as you.

 

gas actually shot out of the top of the carb, i'm kinda scared to crank it up now because of the amount of gas that came out don't wan't any explosions.

 

try advancing the dist. a little. How much of a tear-down on the motor did you do? Just try turning the dist. until you get it in a spot to get it to start. not too much at a time though

------------------
I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

Running too much fuel pressure could cause a problem. Are you running an electric OEM EFI pump to the carb??? If so, need to put a regulator in there, too. Just thinkin' out loud.

 

I agree with fastbroker. Was this a carb/carb swap or injected to carb swap? If it was carb/carb the fuel pressure should be fine if not your in need of a pressure regulator.
Yea all of the vac lines should be hooked up on the inital startup. When you swapped the distributor did you make sure to reinstall with the rotor pointing in the same direction? The timing could be to slow or to fast that could cause it to backfire through the carb.
SSC

 

i had to adjust valve lash while the distributor was out so i aligned the rotor between the 1 and 8 terminals on my cap with the number one piston at TDC and it dropped in perfectly. when i checked my oil it smelled really gassy, is this dangerous? also my plugs (brand new) reeked of gas.

 

You got some sort of fuel problem and you'd better find and fix it asap. Oil in gas means you are running real rich and/or have carb leaks into the manifold at shutdown, usually from too high a float level, which can be incorrect setting, or too much fuel in bowl from too much pressure overcoming the needle/seat pressure.

It looks like your problems can all be caused by excessive fuel pressure so check that ASAP with an inline gage. Should be at 4-5psi, or so. Change the oil/filter, too, asap. Keep the plugs in until you figure it out then change them,too.

Have you checked your fuel pressure, yet? And answer us about the FI-to-carb... Is that what you did??? Help us and we'll help you. we need more info!!!!

 

"That sucks "

Did you get it running yet?
Well anyway, How much gas did you pour into the carb? If you dident pour gas into it the choke could be set realy tight. Are you using an electric "inline" fuel pump? That could also cause it to flood. It sounds like you got the timing close enough to run so im thinking that it's just flooded bad. but definately change that oil after you tune the carb, no sense in wasteing another 5 qt's if its still flooding.
SSC

 

five quarts is five bucks (use the cheap stuff until you are done) and oil is a better lubricator than gas and oil mixed. Up to you, not my bearings/pistons/rings. when you are done, then change oil/filter with the good stuff...

 

it was a carb-carb swap so the fuel pressure should be fine, changed the oil and filter today, and also got an adapter plate from edelbrock to try and stop a drip from the sides of the carb but that didn't work. pain in the @$$. how much does back pressure effect the quality of idle? i'm having a feeling i'm gonna have to rig the y pipe up there just to get it to the shop to be welded.

 

What kind of manifold are you useing?
The standard square to spread bore should stop any leaks "Mr gasket 15$" The back pressure from the exhaust will not effect idle at all, Most likey its that gas leak, Its also leaking out vacume.This would cause an iractic idle.
Im curiuos though, How's the hood clearance? Are you using a cowl hood or just a drop base filter, and how thick is the adaptor you purchased?
SSC

 

i have a performer rpm manifold. and the spacer is from edelbrock thin brass looking piece, i think it stopped the leak though. car started and stayed for 5 minutes today and i even got to rev it a little (sounds cool with no exhaust on it yet) it did just cut off all of a sudden though after running pretty smoothly. my hood is stock and the clearance is ok. keep your fingers crossed and it may stabilize tommorrow with some ditributor adjustment and idle screw adjustment. thanks alot ssc i appreciate all the advice.