Swapping Intake Manifold and Carburetor
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Swapping Intake Manifold and Carburetor
Good Evening: I am in the process of swapping out the stock Q-Jet carb and intake manifold on my 1986 pontiac firebird 305. I went with the edelbrock edl-2101 intake manifold, adn the EDL-1406 Carb. Since the carb was computer controlled, will I also have to swap out the distributor with a older vaccum advance HEI one? I was looking at the accel 110-59107 from JEGS for 102.95, if I cannot use the stock HEI distributor. is there anyone out who has made this swap, and if so what were the results.
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Yes you'll have to swap in a vacuum advance distributor. I just swaped a non computer Q-jet and vaccum advance distributor sunday, the results were great since my car is too dumb to know there was a computer in it. (computer wasn't getting the proper signals to go into closed loop or something)
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I'm trying to think why you wouldn't put a vacuum advance distributor on a street driven car. I'm drawing a blank.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere w/open diff & slipping tranny.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere w/open diff & slipping tranny.
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Let me help you..
The MSD distributor on my 383 has mechanical advance only (no vacuum advance). It idles smoothe and gets 24 mpg on the highway. All it requires is that you know what you're doing when setting up your distributors timing.
There are NO vacuum lines at all on my 383. This makes things much neater and easier to work on quickly.
The fewer features you have connected to your engine, the fewer problems you will have and the more consistent it will be.
There's nothing really wrong with running a vacuum advance for improved idle and fuel mileage, but I'm just saying you can achieve the same results without it as well.
*I run 27* initial timing (requires ignition-kill switch for starting).
*I run 15* mechanical in the distributor.
*This gives 42* total at idle and in my first gear.
*For second gear I use a 5* retard giving me 37* total @ WOT.
*For third gear I use an additional 2* retard giving me 35* total @ WOT in third gear.
*I vary the two retard chips by one or two degrees based on if I'm running uncorked, with ram-air, and on the air-density reading. I use a third additional retard for nitrous use.
The MSD distributor on my 383 has mechanical advance only (no vacuum advance). It idles smoothe and gets 24 mpg on the highway. All it requires is that you know what you're doing when setting up your distributors timing.
There are NO vacuum lines at all on my 383. This makes things much neater and easier to work on quickly.
The fewer features you have connected to your engine, the fewer problems you will have and the more consistent it will be.
There's nothing really wrong with running a vacuum advance for improved idle and fuel mileage, but I'm just saying you can achieve the same results without it as well.
*I run 27* initial timing (requires ignition-kill switch for starting).
*I run 15* mechanical in the distributor.
*This gives 42* total at idle and in my first gear.
*For second gear I use a 5* retard giving me 37* total @ WOT.
*For third gear I use an additional 2* retard giving me 35* total @ WOT in third gear.
*I vary the two retard chips by one or two degrees based on if I'm running uncorked, with ram-air, and on the air-density reading. I use a third additional retard for nitrous use.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Those are mods that are way over the needs (and probably ability) of the vast majority of people considering this swap. And, you've swapped one mechanical device (vacuum can) for at least 5 electrical/electronic devices (retard chips plus gear and start switches) - that doesn't sound like fewer features to me (although I suppose one could argue the "connected to the engine" point).
n9z, just get a vacuum/mechanical advance HEI or aftermarket distributor.
n9z, just get a vacuum/mechanical advance HEI or aftermarket distributor.
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five7
I'm not telling anyone to copy my setup. I'm not saying my setup is how to emulate vacuum advance either. That was an example showing no need for vacuum advance.
You can modify the centrifugal advance stops & springs to give you whatever total advance you want and still run your initial fairly low (15* or less) if that's what you choose. Centrifugal advance is not load sensitive though.
Agreed, the vacuum advance is a very simple & cheap way to control load sensitive advance.
Running load sensitive advance is entirely your choice though, and is not needed for a great running engine.
I'm not telling anyone to copy my setup. I'm not saying my setup is how to emulate vacuum advance either. That was an example showing no need for vacuum advance.
You can modify the centrifugal advance stops & springs to give you whatever total advance you want and still run your initial fairly low (15* or less) if that's what you choose. Centrifugal advance is not load sensitive though.
Agreed, the vacuum advance is a very simple & cheap way to control load sensitive advance.
Running load sensitive advance is entirely your choice though, and is not needed for a great running engine.
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#8
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Car: 2001 Camaro SS
Engine: Almighty LS1
Transmission: T56
Bah, get a Pertronix distributor... 50k/v coil, module, etc... nice shyt, worth the money and arguably better than the MSD billet with near the same features
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Thank you everyone for the help!! I ended up trading a fellow f-body owner for a Accel super coil and cap, with a accel HEI Vacuum advance distributor. I installed everything on sunday morning. Started at about 10:00 am, and had everything going at 2:00pm. Not to bad considering I did the intake manifold, gaskets, edelbrock carb, and air cleaner. Next step is going to be putting the new valve cover's and gaskets. The only thing that sucks is I did not get the correct stud to hook up my factory cruise control, but then again, with bypassing the computer, I wonder if I am going to be able to even use the cruise if I get the new stud. Thank you all for your help.
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Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 6.6L 406
Transmission: T-56
The cruise control is run off of vacuum and I don't think that it is in anyway connected to the computer.
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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT
1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.
future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.
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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT
1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.
future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.
#11
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I'm not sure what year they changed, but I do know the early type cruise control used the speedo cable to drive a "govenor" that told the vacuum servo how hard to pull on the accelerator, and the '86 uses the VSS to control. I believe the ECM is involved, but I don't know if it needs the engine signal. My guess is that it does not (based on my '84 van having the same type of system, and someone had bypassed the distributor connector when I got it).
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/94.6 @ 5800' Bandimere.
------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/94.6 @ 5800' Bandimere.
#12
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Car: 1987 IROC Z28
Engine: 6.0L LQ9 crate engine
Transmission: Performa Built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 bolt, Eaton/Moser
BTW, many 3rd geners have bought ZZ4 or other crate motors that came with HEI distributors. Many of these guys tossed them or set them aside since they used their TPI or other FI system. I got my dist. from one such fellow. Just ask around here for someone with an HEI dist. off a crate motor that was not needed for their FI setup!
Just my .02 cents worth......
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Phil87IROC
Blue '87 IROC, 383 Crate Motor, KB pistons, AFR 190 heads, ZZ-9 cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, Hooker SC/LT headers, Edelbrock 750 cfm Carb (#1411), stock T-5, GM 3.42 rear w/Auburn posi.
Ohio Valley Dragstrip Trophy Bracket WINNER - 8.39 ET on a 1.82 sec. - 60'. Best MPH = 84.44. Still Tuning Carb!
Red '89 IROC L98, TES, 700R4, T-Tops, K&Ns w/open air boxes, 160 T-stat, Hyper Chip, gutted MAF & CAT, Jacobs Ign., 53kv coil, MSD wires.
Just my .02 cents worth......
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Phil87IROC
Blue '87 IROC, 383 Crate Motor, KB pistons, AFR 190 heads, ZZ-9 cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, Hooker SC/LT headers, Edelbrock 750 cfm Carb (#1411), stock T-5, GM 3.42 rear w/Auburn posi.
Ohio Valley Dragstrip Trophy Bracket WINNER - 8.39 ET on a 1.82 sec. - 60'. Best MPH = 84.44. Still Tuning Carb!
Red '89 IROC L98, TES, 700R4, T-Tops, K&Ns w/open air boxes, 160 T-stat, Hyper Chip, gutted MAF & CAT, Jacobs Ign., 53kv coil, MSD wires.
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