Plates have NOTHING to do with insurance. I guess some states might be different but insurance is a Private industry and Plates are Public or Govt.

There are a few different styles of Classic plates.
1) The most common type is you go to your DMV (we call it Secretary of State in MI) and you request a HISTORICAL car Plate, the car has to be 26 or more years old, and you get a NEW plate for your car which is different. You are limited to Car shows, Cruises, and Special events. This plate expires every 10 years and has to be renewed.
2) Something I think that is neat about MI is we have Authentic plates. They are similar to a Historical Plates but they are a plate from the same year as the year of your car. IE I have 1967 MI Plates on my 67 Buick Riviera... You only pay for the plate ONCE, and I never have to register the car again, In some ways its a nice insurance policy against Fraud.

you can learn more hear about MI: http://www.michigan.gov/documents/hplate_16252_7.pdf I would try your state DMV or wherever you get plates and then go from there.

Insurance on the other hand since its a Private institution really has nothing to do with the plates on the car. I supose that some states might have exceptions but that would seem at odds with the private and public sector. I can get Histircal plates in MI but have regular insurance, Or I could get Histircal or Collector insurance and drive with regular plates. Or I could get both.

John

 

That would be cool to get plates from '91 on my car...although I think the plates from that year in Missouri are all a dark red color with white letters and numbers. It might look kinda wierd on a blue car...I dunno.

 

All this talk about cheap insurance sure sounds nice...

Mine is around $200 a month just for PIP, with no accidents.
I'm a 18 year old guy living in FL, so that pushes it up there, but still...$2200-$2400 a year just for minimum...

It sucks to think that every year gone that we payed insurance, I could've had another beat up but salvageable third gen...

 

Same here as BlueZee28's experience. I also just brought the car and myself and the appraisel inspector just looked over the car for it's current condition. Because mine is original I don't have any receipts except for regular maintenance and maybe a new set of tires. I have one for a recall (seat belt latches and front convertible roof latches). And that's about it.

If your ride is modified quite a bit, I'd still bring whatever receipts you do have, just in case the inspector you happen to get is interested. Doesn't hurt to have them along.

And 88IROConv, you beat my appraisel by $1000!

What's cool is the vert's have pretty much stopped depreciating and in some circumstances started to appreciate! An appraisel at $21,000 - $22,000 for '87-'89's is now higher than original dealer price.
Like the saying goes . . . the cost of a vehicle is not what you pay for it, but the difference when you sell it. So if you buy it for $10,000 and sell it a couple years later for $12,000, that means you got to drive it basically for free the whole time plus a few $$$ in your pocket at the end.

 

kinda curious, what gave away that an "ls1" 10 bolt wasnt factory? The slight length difference or the disc brakes? What makes it an LS1 10 bolt? isn't it just a 4th gen rear? an ls1 is an engine.. a 10 bolt is a rear differential..

 

With regards to appraisel and insurance?

 

He asked what was done and I started naming things off, one of them being the rear end I installed this summer. You can tell it's not factory because:

A) There are 2" spacers behind the front wheels for the 4th gen offset wheels, there are no spacers in the back

B) The rear brake rotors are quite bigger than the fronts. I haven't gotten around to upgrading the fronts yet


Actually there is a difference between LT1 and LS1 10 bolts, it's the size of the rotors I believe. I'm pretty sure the LS1's had slightly larger diameter rotors.