Okay, I've got a 1992 Z28 vert and the car leans to the right, probably 1/4-1/3 lower on the right, most noticeable in the front rather than the rear. I am assuming that this is from 150k of miles without SFC's or other body re-inforcements. Most of the body panels still fit, but the gaps on the rh side of the car are very tight, but on the left the gaps are wider.
I am planning on keeping the car, but is this a red flag as far as un-repairable frame damage? If not, what are my options here?
I am planning on adding some SFC's for now, but what do I need to expect long term?
I'm sure throwin in the L98 wasn't good for the tired *** chassis.
Scott
I am planning on keeping the car, but is this a red flag as far as un-repairable frame damage? If not, what are my options here?
I am planning on adding some SFC's for now, but what do I need to expect long term?
I'm sure throwin in the L98 wasn't good for the tired *** chassis.
Scott
Member
I'm going to take a 1000 word response and condense it.
- Make sure you are on a COMPLETELY level surface... which is nearly impossible so after you measure it, spin the car 180 degrees and RE-MEASURE. Check height at the KEYHOLES, the TOW HOOKS, and the rear bumper metal. Don't rely solely on the fender wells but use those measurements as a datapoint also. You get the point - use known fixed symmetrical points that refference the unibody. The keyholes are IFFY but do it. Roll the car and bounce it before measuring especially if you just unjacked the car.(learned that recently). Note that your bouncing technique can produce a height error of 1/4" depending on strut/sway bushing condition. MATCH the tire pressures.
I'm not going to be able to condense this if I keep that up.
Check to see that your swaybars are TOTALLY NEUTRAL in their mounting height. What I mean is that when the car is sitting on a totally flat surface(raised an equal height on ramps is okay but it's nice to have the rear raised as well for perfection), and you unwind the endlink nuts- the swaybar should rest on top of BOTH endlinks' bushings equally - there should be NO AIR GAP above either one. For example- an extra inch of front swaybar shim on one side can raise one side of a 3600 lb car more than a quarter inch. (It also transfers WEIGHT so don't think this is a cure unless you do ZERO performance driving.)
I can't keep it short- I'll stop the tech stuff there. Gain some weight maybe :P Get an aluminum spare maybe. Decide if looks are important or performance. Good cornerweights are what you are after if you wanna be nutz about performance. Obtaining those weights is tricky and/or expensive. If it's pure looks you need - tweak the swaybar sleeves some and keep one side tire pressure 5psi higher.
If it is more noticable up front like you say, consider fender washers up front for a small tweak. Time consuming but if you are concerned about 1/4" then you might just want to do whatever it takes cosmetically before messing with the weight transfer stuff.
A warning to others planning to modify the powerplant in a vert.. unwinding a twisted car is involved and expensive when done right. Scottjake- your car is not twisted if both the RF and RR are the quarter inch lower than the LF and LR. SFC's are good for a 5.0/5.7 but anything radical and plan on an 8 point cage. Make sure the SFC installer knows to square the car as best he can before welding. (duh - but needed to be said just in case). If you are going to dragrace the car with sticky tires you definetly want SFCs.
ok - my typical rambling TMI answer.. I promise I left some out.
- Make sure you are on a COMPLETELY level surface... which is nearly impossible so after you measure it, spin the car 180 degrees and RE-MEASURE. Check height at the KEYHOLES, the TOW HOOKS, and the rear bumper metal. Don't rely solely on the fender wells but use those measurements as a datapoint also. You get the point - use known fixed symmetrical points that refference the unibody. The keyholes are IFFY but do it. Roll the car and bounce it before measuring especially if you just unjacked the car.(learned that recently). Note that your bouncing technique can produce a height error of 1/4" depending on strut/sway bushing condition. MATCH the tire pressures.
I'm not going to be able to condense this if I keep that up.
Check to see that your swaybars are TOTALLY NEUTRAL in their mounting height. What I mean is that when the car is sitting on a totally flat surface(raised an equal height on ramps is okay but it's nice to have the rear raised as well for perfection), and you unwind the endlink nuts- the swaybar should rest on top of BOTH endlinks' bushings equally - there should be NO AIR GAP above either one. For example- an extra inch of front swaybar shim on one side can raise one side of a 3600 lb car more than a quarter inch. (It also transfers WEIGHT so don't think this is a cure unless you do ZERO performance driving.)
I can't keep it short- I'll stop the tech stuff there. Gain some weight maybe :P Get an aluminum spare maybe. Decide if looks are important or performance. Good cornerweights are what you are after if you wanna be nutz about performance. Obtaining those weights is tricky and/or expensive. If it's pure looks you need - tweak the swaybar sleeves some and keep one side tire pressure 5psi higher.
If it is more noticable up front like you say, consider fender washers up front for a small tweak. Time consuming but if you are concerned about 1/4" then you might just want to do whatever it takes cosmetically before messing with the weight transfer stuff.
A warning to others planning to modify the powerplant in a vert.. unwinding a twisted car is involved and expensive when done right. Scottjake- your car is not twisted if both the RF and RR are the quarter inch lower than the LF and LR. SFC's are good for a 5.0/5.7 but anything radical and plan on an 8 point cage. Make sure the SFC installer knows to square the car as best he can before welding. (duh - but needed to be said just in case). If you are going to dragrace the car with sticky tires you definetly want SFCs.
ok - my typical rambling TMI answer.. I promise I left some out.
