hey guys, as some of you know I have a 1992 RS vert, red with 108,030 miles, and *no* rust anywhere. I wrecked it last year and since been restoring it in my garage. I had a few questions about my build..
BUILD SPECS (so far)
383ci SBC
-350 4 bolt main
-bored .60 over
-4340 forged Scat rotating assy
-Mahle Flat-tops
-RHS pro series alum. heads, ported/polished
-Comp hydraulic roller Nitrous cam, .502/.562
-Comp dual valves, roller rockers, roller lifters
-Isky pushrods
-Jesel gear drives
-MSD ignition
-Holley 750 double pumper with 1" spacer
-Summit single-plane high rise manifold
-Moroso oil pump/7 qt pan
-ARP/Fel-Pro
-lots and lots more
-Built and dyno'd by me and Bill Lawson at Ateco Engines,
-447bhp/404ft/lbs torque @ 5800 rpm

700R4 transmission
-corvette servo
-shift kit
-3700 stall

suspension
Spohn chromoly k-member with Moroso solid motor mounts
Spohn chromoly sway bars frt/rear
Spohn adj. LCAs
Hawk's LCA relocation brackets
Spohn adj. a-arms
Spohn adj. panhard bar
Spohn wonderbar
Spohn pro series crossmember torque arm
Koni yellow adj. frt/rear shocks
Eibach sportline springs
2002 Camaro SS rear, rebuilt posi, new 3.73 gears, EBC pads/rotors, powdercoated calipers, aluminum diff cover, built by Hawk's
Wilwood front big brake kit
Spohn steering rebuild kit
Hawk's poly bump stops
stainless steel brake lines
Wilwood DBPV
B&M line-lock


what should i do about my interior? I gutted *everything* and now its just a mess of wires and computers dangling around. the whole dash is out, the whole backseat and front seat are out, the carpet, etc. I figured the best way to go is to have a professional custom fab a wiring harness, and then do the seats, carpet, door panels, dash, gauges, etc. what do you guys think? I'm looking for shops around Illinois, so far I'm looking at Hot Rod's by Greg (my friend's uncles shop) and Midwest Hot Rods.

Techny Auto Body in Northbrook is doing the body work and the paint.

I'm having a 10 pt roll cage put in too, should this be done before or after the interior gets done? with the power the engines making, and a power adder coming soon, would a 14 pt be worth the extra $$?

I'm shooting for a street/strip/show car. I want it to be NHRA legal, street legal, and still be able to drive it to school and pick up girls. any tips would be appreciated. thanks so much guys

 

anybody?

 

Can't help you with any shops around your town, but if your looking to redo your harness I'd go with a painless system. That's usually a decent amount of cash though. If it were me personally I'd take the old harness out after marking the ends, pull the loom off the harness examine the wires and if they need repair, solder and shrink tube new wires and pigtails on. Usually there are a few in bone yards around and if you find the right yard you can pull the whole harness for under $50. Well worth it for the pigtail ends.

As far as the interior, it really depends on what your doing. With a 10 point cage I'd just smooth out the back seat area and not bother replacing them or use the space for a stereo. The front seats if your looking to stay somewhat stock looking I'd find a set of c5 or c6 vette seats. They'll look stock--ish, but offer a higher side bolster to hold you in better around corners. If stock looking is not your goal, I'd shell out the cash for some racing seats.

Hope this gives you some ideas and gets the wheels turning.

 

Why is it everytime I hear of someone putting a roll cage into a vert I get bummed out... If you want to race something at the track, get a hard top. Sure put some power in your vert, but roll cages just ruin them. IMO