Radiator plug size - jprevost?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Radiator plug size - jprevost?
*Anyone know what size threads I need for a pipe plug to plug the radiator inlet for the hose returning coolant from the heater core?*
I actually threw away a plug that was mistakenly left there to fix my previously non-functional heater core last year. If anyone cares why, it's b/c I already got rid of the HCV/hoses, but now I want to route the return line into the top of the water pump b/c my driver's side header occasionally vibrates against the solid fixed pipe that's screwed down behind it, ever since I did my cam swap, etc. (changed exhaust gasket to copper - thicker, I guess?). I went to do the simple changeover and realized I'd need a plug for the radiator... JPrevost, I read that you once wrote something about the necessary parts to do this, but your website link doesn't work. Thanks!
I actually threw away a plug that was mistakenly left there to fix my previously non-functional heater core last year. If anyone cares why, it's b/c I already got rid of the HCV/hoses, but now I want to route the return line into the top of the water pump b/c my driver's side header occasionally vibrates against the solid fixed pipe that's screwed down behind it, ever since I did my cam swap, etc. (changed exhaust gasket to copper - thicker, I guess?). I went to do the simple changeover and realized I'd need a plug for the radiator... JPrevost, I read that you once wrote something about the necessary parts to do this, but your website link doesn't work. Thanks!
why would you need a plug for the radiator??? are you bypassing the heater 100%?? I took that steel heater line out. I cut a big part of it off and still have all the hoses conected to it. Its up on top of the AIR box that controls the AIR flow from the smog pump.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
No, I already bypassed the HCV stuff when I did my cam swap - now I just have a short hose running from the back of my intake to the heater core inlet. Everything works nicely, except that my driver's side header now knocks against that fixed pipe (the one the hose from the core dumps into and the bypass hose from the valve used to dump into) because, I guess, the copper exhaust gasket I just put on is a bit thicker...
Soooo, I want to take out that pipe altogether and just run the hose off the heater core outlet, over the intake, and into that xtra inlet atop the water pump (w/the plug in it from the factory) so that I don't have to listen to that damn noise anymore (plus it's probably not that great for the header's longevity).
I just wanted to know if anyone knew the thread size for the plug I'll need to put in the radiator (where the hose from that pipe clamps on now) so that I don't have to spill coolant just to find out b/f I head to the store.
Soooo, I want to take out that pipe altogether and just run the hose off the heater core outlet, over the intake, and into that xtra inlet atop the water pump (w/the plug in it from the factory) so that I don't have to listen to that damn noise anymore (plus it's probably not that great for the header's longevity).
I just wanted to know if anyone knew the thread size for the plug I'll need to put in the radiator (where the hose from that pipe clamps on now) so that I don't have to spill coolant just to find out b/f I head to the store.
ok so insted of dumping the return into the radiator you want it to go to the water pump? I was planning on running a line from the heater outlet, over the valve cover/intake area, around the AC, and to the radiator. Auto part stores sell rubber plugs you can clamp on. That pipe isn't fixed you can take it off. I did. It was in my way when I was installing headers. Everything on that steel pipe was 3/4" heater line. The other pipe that goes into the radiator should be 5/8".

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...r+valve+delete

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...r+valve+delete
Last edited by Tas; Jul 7, 2002 at 09:47 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
That pic you posted is exactly what mine looks like now (with the rubber cap clamped onto the "T" inlet where the HCV bypass hose used to run).
I hear what you're saying about running a hose over the valve cover into the radiator, but I think I'd rather drop it into the pump, keeps it out of the way a bit better for me.
I hear what you're saying about running a hose over the valve cover into the radiator, but I think I'd rather drop it into the pump, keeps it out of the way a bit better for me.
I didn't know you could put it in the pump on our cars. Good idea. So can't you use your 3/4" rubber thing for the radiator after you take that steel line out? Do you think dumping it into the radiator might make the heater core cooler to keep inside temps down?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
So can't you use your 3/4" rubber thing for the radiator after you take that steel line out?
Do you think dumping it into the radiator might make the heater core cooler to keep inside temps down?
It also seems to me that by sending the heater core outlet to the water pump directly (rather than the radiator), I'll be greatly increasing the flow through the heater core via a pull from the water pump (whereas before it was pushed from behind and just fell out into the radiator). Is this the case, i.e., does the water pump "pull" fluid into its top inlet, or is the effect insignificant?
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