Since summer's here and my heating problems are beginning again I need to know what's a good "schedule" on flushing the radiator? It's about 3 years old...think it's time?


My problem is minor....220 is usually where it stays with a 180 stat, but when I first got the car it would stay 180.

 

i used to do mine twice a year.... but now i only do it once a year.

be sure to add some bars stop leak after you do it... just a lil...


after 3 years, yea, id say you were past due.

 

Personally, I never worry with time / mileage intervals on coolant. If you've never done it on your current car, it's worth it to do it now...

But otherwise just test the coolant. You can buy a Prestone type coolant tester, or you can buy some strips that test the various important properties of your coolant.

As for the flush:

Run some coolant flush through it...I like using the Prestone flush kit...it lets you get some of the benefits of a backflush.

I'd also pull the radiator and look down in it, if you have alot of scale, build up, you can opt to get a alum / plastic replacement for about $120 or pay to have it cleaned out by a radiator shop.

Next up is the water pump. I always use stock pumps, but I always use the Flow kooler impeller. It's disc that rivets on the back of a stock water pump that helps the water pump do it's job more efficiently. It's cheap too..like $8-10. Summit, places like that have them.


Now this tip came from an old friend of mine that did alot of high dollar engine builds...he uses Glyptol on inside of the water pump...this is mainly used on the internal surfaces of engines to help oil recovery and flow. He's a big believer that Glyptol helps keep crud from building up inside the pump.

Go ahead and replace the hoses...they are cheap and nothing is worse than having a hose burst....not too long after you just got done doing a coolant flush and fill LOL...

New thermostat...

Here's how I personally perform my coolant flushes...

1. Drain ALL coolant from the car. This includes the block. Drain plugs / knock sensor removal will accomplish this, along w/ draining radiator etc. Now fill it back up with water ( distilled if your tap water isn't great, or you have well water ).

2. Drive the car unti it's up to operating temp. Run the heat full blast.

3. Drain ALL the WATER back out. I tend to do it once the car has cooled a bit, but is still warm.

4. Button it back up. Add the flush / cleaner from the flush kit. Follow the directions, filling it up letting it warm up etc. Make sure the heat is on full blast.

5. Now drain / back flush like the directions state. I also like to remove the drain plugs after to see if any crud comes out, you'll be surprised what does come out.

6. Button everything up. Alot of people put more coolant than anything, in a 3rd gen, I dump in a full gallon of antifreeze, let the car run with the rad cap off, and fill it with water while it runs, to know I've got the system full.


You can also change to Dexcool. I won't get in the many argument for / against Dexcool. I personally like it better, but a good flush is necessary, because it doesn't play well with the plain green stuff.

 

i havent at all and its been over 2 years, i mean if its keeping cool i dont really worry about it to much, and it still looks good for the most part also.

 

One point missed, always use sealing tablets. GM has them at any dealer or the powdered Bars Leak is the same thing. Can't say how many times I have seen water pumps go a week after a flush.