I bought an intake manifold that has 1/2 npt ports in all 4 corners, instead of just the two in the front. What is the best thing to do with these for cooling? Some people say just connect the back two to 'balance the flow' Others say to connect each back one to its corresponding front one. Which way would be best for cooling, if any are any better?

What about running the back two ports straight into the radiator, so the main radiator hose takes care of the water coming out of the 'front' of the block and the back ports take care of the rear?

Any other suggestions welcome...

Oh yea, and I need to get the heater core lines in there somewhere too...

 

Personally I'd just put plugs in them.

 

Run the lines from front to back. Alot of guys never notice any difference temp wise with this, but if it's there it does'nt hurt anything either except the pocket book for the plumbing.

Supposed to help distribute cooler water top the rear of the head that usually sees the warmed up water passed back from the front of the head. Most intakes, and intake gaskets just completely block off the rear water ports. Any little bit helps!

 

you cant run them straight to the radiator.. that would bypass the thermostat.

connect them up front to the front crossover..

they can Y into one and connect the one if you want.


i just used the rear passenger side for the heater core, and plugged the rear drivers side....

btw, this IS the pro products hurricane, isnt it?

 

Yep, power plus Hurricane, and I just finished welding fuel injector bosses into it

I don't run a thermostat anyway, even with the bigger griffin radiator, electric fans and such, I could never keep it cool at idle with a thermostat. I even tried adding holes to the thermostat. That's the only reason I suggested running them straight to the radiator, maybe to get more flow back to the radiator.

Thanks for the ideas!

 

the thermostat sets the MIN temp.. not the MAX. modding your thermostat to keep it cooler is like putting bigger brakes on to go faster.... they're both related to speed, but wont give you the result you're looking for.

go put your thermostat back in, check your timing, airdam, fans, ect and fix the problem.

 

I'd love to believe that, but a simple ABA test proves that wrong. Thermostat out, car can idle in traffic for hours at 205-210 F, thermostat in, 5 minutes in traffic, 230 with no signs of stabilizing. Maybe because when the thermostat is open, it isn't nearly as open as not having a thermostat.

 

I'm with yo on that Spitz. Had trouble with my mild 355 keeping cool with stock radiator, electric water pump and dual electric fans. Did the 160, 170, 180, 195 thermostats with 4 1/8" holes drilled in it to help by-pass for the electric pump and all made it run up to 200* like nothing and hover around the 210 mark until
I was stuck intraffic on hot humid summer days.

Bought the moroso restrictor plates and installed the 3/4" hole (blue) plate in there, same ambient temps as before in traffic and 180* was tops.

I'm just hoping the new 31x19 Howie radiator will help keep this new mill cool enough for once in awhile street driving. We got it fired up Sunday night and it hovered about 150* breaking the new motor in..well seating the rings anyways since it's a solid roller cam. I had the fans and pump going once it fired and it was only high 70's that night so not like it was getting strained. I know 180-200 is'nt bad, but I've always liked my motors in the 160-180 range tops...leaves some room for cushion should something bad happen.

 

my 355 in my 79 malibu overheats without the thermostat in... some engines respond better without them, and some engines have to have them...alot of people will say that your not letting the radiator do its job if you have the thermostat out, but i guess it all depends on how your engine responds to it